Yours is a good looker too....I had one heck of a time coming up with wheels 16 x 5" on the back and 16 x 4.5" on the front. I need to loose the spare tire and step plates on the running board. It does run good and the tires really helped the handling
i chased one of those , turned out one rod was hitting the dipper tray . took it out & thru it away as i am pressurized . silly how things work ............ steve
Thanks. Forgot to mention I am not using a hood. I will raise it up and look underneath for a possible location.
Swapped on the red head last night,waiting for it to warm up a bit to test drive..the womenfolk think Im crazy for swapping out the polished head,I tried to explain the need for speed trumps style.
@Steves46, I mounted mine inside the frame rail, angled slightly downwards to shed water and such. Works so far.
Been too cooped up the last couple weeks with rain and all I made an essential attitude adjustment run this morning, all better now..........
Can someone educate me? My machinist is saying he needs to make fixture for boring the main caps on my B motor and setting it up for inserts. What does something like this look like. He has one for an A but not for a B.
I can believe him, especially if the bar he has was made for cutting Babbitt originally. It is probably only 1" diameter. I made two bars, one each for "A" and "B" The "A" bar is 1 1/2" dia and the "B" is 1 3/4" dia. My first question is which bearing inserts are you attempting? If the chev rod bearings, 2.125 od, you may end up moving the crank up into the block and away from the cam. The std bore in block is right about 2.125 dia and it may not clean up fully. I have never had to do that with the 2.146 bearing. John
Got a Clings adapter kit for cheap(ish) and bought a lightened flywheel/V8 pressure plate from Snyders. I’ve had one before in a car I sold, but I wasn’t the one to install. Any advice? I also picked up recently a V8 trans with a 28 tooth gear set. Hope that’s the right one for the little old banger motor. Stay safe out there/work on your car✌️
So are Refrigeration Mechanics/Fitters....at least we can all have a employment where ever we roam...hell I was in Laughlin NV once with my wife. We were eating at a buffet...imagine that, and the soft serve ice cream machine was broken. She complained to the gal that was gathering the plates and volunteered me to fix it for them.... Sent from my XT1585 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Looks like that could be good therapy. Gas is below $2.00 here Sent from my XT1585 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Hope so. Looks like it will. How about the pressure plate? I’m assuming it’s bolt on since it’s just rebuilt by Snyders, but does anyone have a method to double check the finger adjustment? I’d hate to install, then find out there’s a problem.
Rebuilding Model T coils...I know, I know, Ford Barn material two more to go of eight Sent from my XT1585 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
those coils are really fugly inside ! good luck . john , will "T"s adapt to that type ? ive heard that , but never could get one to live . had several (used) , give up ......
Hey Walls, Couple things. First, as said, see if you can purchase the several iron pieces that make install easy. First one I ever did , I made these pieces. Dumb move as I've no torching/welding kills...and it took forever grinding. Since you already purchased the V8 39 trans, now is the time to make placement hole in its bell housing area for front 'yoke' ball attachment piece. I used grade 8 bolt/nylock nut fastener. Finally, I see that you used a disc without the springs being captured . It may take a while, but these springs can/will eventually work loose (fatigue) and rattle/noise/fall out at worst. Regarding PP, make sure that each 'finger/arm' has a secure fastener arrangement where is pivots, like a cotter pin to ensure that the pin does not back out with use.
The Jalopy Journal
