Projects Joe's American Graffiti Coupe with a Man A Fre (Milner Coupe Clone)

The hard black fuel lines aren't that bad, not all flimsy and loopy lying on the car

 

@Nicholas Coe check to see that all four carbs have the weep hole on the back side throttle plate that let air in. Are they all clean and all of the same size. These in your case will allow leaning idle mixture without affecting throttle plate position over idle fuel mixture ports.

 

Hopefully I can shorten mine to not be so long and loopy.

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Ok! I'll make sure and check when we have the top off next. Thank you!

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The holes are in the base https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/odd-holes-in-a-rochester.1120539/

 

Sorry. That shows my lack of knowledge. Thank you!

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I would pull the intake and check the gasket to see if it is compressed all the way around the gasket. And check all the surfaces for imperfections. If there aren’t any then the intake shouldn’t be your problem.


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Here's the base holes. I'll definitely check these out. This is a picture of one posted on a different thread.

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We did notice that the gasket seemed to not seal as well on certain areas. Also, there was quite a bit of gasket sealant used on the front and rear walls.

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Well,
We're at it again tomorrow. We're planning on checking the overall carburator tuning. Also adding a new coil and dizzy. Prayers up!

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We changed the distributor and coil. Apparently the single point coil had a major issue with the points. I could see gouged spots and mauled screws underneath. We have a running car now! Great throttle response. Only needs more fine tuning of the carburators. More hope for next week. I'm a happy guy today.

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Be interesting to know what kind of idle vacuum you have.

 

Last time I checked prior to distributor and coil change was around 7 inches of vacuum at idle.

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Not trying to be a smart ass but its inches of vacuum not LBS

 

No. Not at all. Thank you. I have edited my post.

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Just a comment : in the past few years I have been running cams in the 220°-235° @.050 range lopey to rough idle , I've not seen less than 13" vac@900 rpm with any of them , yet here and other places I see 5-10" vac @ up to 1000 rpm , how come some are so low ??

 

I would keep the single point distributor and use it to trigger a Capacitive Discharge box like the MSD6AL, Vertex Z6, Crane or Accel box.. I would use a blue Bosch 4 ohm coil (#000012) and run 12 volts to the coil. The CD box will give you a real big spark!!
Your going backwards removing the points for a Pertronix

 

Sounds like that would be a good solution as well. We have already added a Petronix "stock look" cast distributor and Flamethrower coil. This distributor has the original Igniter system in it. Hopefully this will allow it to work better with my vintage set up.

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I don't know why. Everyone has pretty much said that it was my "large duration" cam. My advisors who have built these cars before have used the blocked power valves and larger jets to compensate for that problem.

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FYI, in case you didn't know, with the Igniter I DO NOT leave the key switch in the ON position with the engine not running. That is a great way to kill the module and you'll get no spark output at all. If you must turn the switch on to test for voltage or something make sure to turn it back off as soon as possible. Also, do not use solid core plug wires or non-resistor plugs, 2 other ways to kill the module.

 

San Jose, (Ca.) 1983. 'Kamikaze Fred' had retired his Man-a-Fre 327 '55 Chev, sold the intake to 'Fat Mike'. Mike rebuilt the 4 carbs, installed intake on his 327 powered '41 pickup. Idle was a 'fast' 1200 RPM, he drove it to my shop, left it...
My wife removed the carbs, disassembled one. Found the wrong gasket between base and bowl. (further search found all four) She made four from gasket paper, problem solved...
We had some left-and-right hand thread female ball sockets in stock, and some left hand threaded rod, so she cut, threaded, and fitted links that had infinite adjustment.
When she synced carbs at idle, linkage was not connected. She then connected linkage, locked it at 1/8" at main shaft off idle, and synced carbs with tension on all four.
This eliminated any 'slop' that would have gone unnoticed if linkage was 'assumed' to all be equal when connected after idle sync.
Smart lady...

 

I'd guess that you maybe have a bit more initial timing and/or a distributor with a vacuum advance that's connected to a source of full manifold vacuum. It's an easy way to pick up some idle vacuum and usually improves driveability if adjusted within reason.

Also, slightly advanced cam timing and a little extra valve lash (with solid lifters) will increase idle vacuum a skosh due to the earlier intake valve closing.

 

Hyd lifters , no vac adv ,16° initial , cam installed straight up ..sorry Nicholas Coe , I think out loud too much

 

Very smart lady! We haven't looked at the bowl gaskets. That is something we'll do soon as we are having to change the gasket again on a chrome thermostat housing that keeps leaking.

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Our plug wires are carbon core I believe. I know they aren't copper. Hopefully they will be fine. I know they aren't HEI for sure. I'll definitely remember the ignition switch. That's also a good way to run points too I've heard.

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What you stated is exactly what we are running.

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We have Scorpion roller rockers. Our current timing is set at 16 and 32. We have no vacuum advance currently installed. Is that a bad thing?

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Id say that's good ! You're sure your reading manifold vacuum ( below the throttle blades ) ?

 

That reading is according to the dash gauge. I think it is correct.

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As the tune gets better the vacuum will improve that's why people use a vacuum gauge to set idle mixture. Now have fun adjusting all 8 of them.