Projects K-88 Dragster / 6 Cylinder

More of the little stuff that needs to be done. I ended up redoing my seat belt mounts. Instead of the tabs I had mocked up with...I went with 1/2" bungs. The guy that did the tin work recommended this and I liked the idea. I still need to do the shoulder mounts but plan to use the same inserts once I figure out the right location/drop per the SFI spec with me in the car etc...

Hole drilled and insert in the main rail.

Did each side and tacked in place.

 

Moved onto dialing in the coupler cover. With the tranny and everything back in the car I could do the final fitting of it. This is a clam shell design made from .120" wall tubing cut in half length wise.
Trimmed the top piece to fit over the pinion snout of the third member.

View from under the car....


A bit closer...

Here it is with the bottom half installed..

Then again from the top with everything in place. Decided this will get chromed.

 

Another shot of the coupler cover with the tranny shield.

 

Time for Marty's @Marty Strode Chassis Research wheel to get a final spot in all this. Drilled it and bolted in in. It's PERFECT!!! I couldn't be happier Marty and THANK YOU again!! Such a great addition to the car and a gift that I'll never forget!!

 

Also got 4 switches put in the car (main, fuel, starter and mag) . Main Kill switch will go on the lower rail with a rod out the back of the car. Typical "Push-Off" arrangement.

 

Make sure you can reach the switches when strapped in. I have see a lot of relocated switches because they were just out of reach.

 

With arm restraintaints on...

 

Good points guys and we're good. We can also include the hand brake in that as well.

 

Main Kill Switch.

 

You have been busy. All that small stuff seems like it takes forever.

 

Every 1 hour job takes a day.... with help .. 2 days

 

So true guys - the small stuff does seem to take forever and just keep checking stuff off the list.

 

I'm so blown-away by your build, the needle busted on my WOW meter... BITCHIN from every angle. I can't imangine a better home for that 12-port seeping with HISTORY! Looking forward with updates!

 

Thank you for the kind words @6-bangertim and doing my best to be the next caretaker of this engine for sure. I'm glad you like it. Updates are small and in some cases I'm probably sweating the details too much but the latest was cutting down and re-drilling/tapping the shutoff rod to get it closer to the body. This is in the OFF position and gets pulled back for power. I like it much better and glad I did it.

 

More little stuff. Got the bell crank nailed down for the fuel shutoff. I don't really need a shutoff with the 5 carburetors but trying to think ahead with hopes of someday maybe running fuel injection - but for now it will be carbureted with an electric pump.

 

General accepted practice is to have the fuel shut off (with injection) between the pump and the injection. That way when the pump is in the off position (3-way SO) the fuel circulates back to the fuel tank and keeps the pump wet. A dry pump tends to wear out quickly. Another side benefit with the SO after the pump is during warm ups, you can trim the flow down to the injector to a low RPM lean and build heat quickly without blubbering the system with fuel waiting for heat to build up, once temp is up, go to full pump and check off idle response and your done.

 

Thanks Bruce and you bring up a really good point about a 3 way shutoff.
If I end up going to injection my plan was to go from the tank, to the mechanical pump, to this shutoff and up to the barrel valve. If I’m thinking this right I believe that will keep the pump wet won’t it??
But...with this Enderle only having an in/out I have no way to bypass fuel back to the tank and I really like what you describe about a careful low RPM lean out to build heat.
Hmmm....maybe I need to find a different shutoff valve or scrap this idea altogether for now and deal with it if/when I get an injection setup.
Thank you again for your input and advice - I really appreciate it.

 

If you are running gas and carbs to begin with, you are fine , , just when you switch to injection and alc. I little rethinking is in order. That's all

 

Gauges - genie winged Stewart Warner’s look right at home in the Chassis Research panel. I decided the cowl needs to be trimmed down a bit. I plan to keep the same radius’s but get the cowl flush with the gauge panel.

 

Just found this thread. Awesome work. Can’t wait to see it on the strip.

 

Thanks Tim and I'm looking forward to getting this thing on the strip as well. Great Job on your 48 Ragtop build - you have great vision and awesome execution.

 

I decided to trim back to cowl a couple of inches to open things up a bit.

 

This puts the cowl more in line with the gauge panel.

 

Decided to pull the wrap and see what we have.

Starting to come around I think...

 

Finished up some details on the throttle linkage. I ended up taking some male 5/16" rod ends and mounting them through the mid-plate, a couple of throttle shaft arms mounted on 5/16" solid rod with a couple of stops. These little 97's don't have much throw so it worked out well.

 

I haven't updated this post for awhile due to life but figured I'd provide some updates. A big change happened in this build as I was able to score a Hilborn /Travers Injection for this Fisher Head. You may recall Bill Fisher cast about a dozen or so of these heads and as I understand it the injection units were around 15 or so.

 

In wanting to stay with the early parts as much as possible, I was then after a Hilborn BL420 pump and a way to drive it. I lucked out and found a rebuilt pump and a decided to go with a V Belt setup instead of the later cog style.
I found a 6" diameter V belt drive and modified it to work on a 6 cylinder and then took a general 3" diameter crank drive V belt kit and cut it down to line up the pulleys.

 

Here's some other shots of it..