http://doczz.net/doc/3662746/bolt-on-option---chassis-engineering-inc did they ever make deep dropped forged steering arms in the right hand drive
Chassis Engineering is now owned by Heidts. Seems the only bit they didn't take up is the straight axle front end part of the business. Some one has said that Pete and Jakes has picked up that part.
You might have to do it the old way; heat them up and drop them. It reduces your leverage when turning, but not a huge problem. When dropping the arms, you have to maintain the correct Ackerman also.
Couldn't you use the regular dropped arms, and use the "Jeep" tie rod end with the extra hole for the drag link?
The OP is in the UK, he is looking for right hand drive component, it's on the opposite side from what we are use too. HRP
@Algoma56 means this, he’s not referring to a forged steering arm meant for the side opposite to what we use stateside. The extra eye will be a simple solution for what @nobby needs.
A quick addition. When using the Jeep TR, I highly suggest using "The Cure" to stabilize the end and tighten up steering. https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/R2008.html
Yep, that's why I suggested this end. He could put the assembled tie rod on the car with this end on left side, and connect his drag link to it.
anyone have a set of these to hand? - do they have symmetry before the arm drops down or could I change them side to side and bend the arms - as they are forged or, were they always forged flat and then bent
Nobby: What everyone is saying is shorten your tie rod and replace the left tie rod end with that Jeep one and you can attach your drag link to that Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I sent an email to Heidts regarding the steering arms in post 10 being symmetrical from side to side for a right hand drive rod. I asked to verify if they are a Heidts product. They may post answer here. If they email me an answer, I will post the answer here. Stay well. Phil
so, they were forged flat, then bent, the forging 'must' have been the one deal with two eyes, -remove one from pair then bent great, so I buy a pair from pete and jakes and bend them the other way -the listed milled set are for the above caliper bracket 'flat' with a spacer set. better than that! buy two pair - only have to bend 1 chop off other eye could someone invent some of these andbe done wit it!
https://jamcosuspension.com/products/sfID1/73/sfID2/39/sfID3/235/sfID4/198/productID/3196 oh someone has...……..
The dropped Ford truck rod ends won't get him the eye on the steering arm for the drag link. The Jeep tie rod end would work in his case if he has clearance between the rod end and the hair pins. He wouldn't even have to reverse the taper for the drag link end to fit as it would be correct when it was on that side. It doesn't use the rest of the Jeep CJ linkage that is the problem as far as it getting sloppy. Example here but I see that there are some Jeep parts suppliers in the UK and maybe one close enough to visit to actually look at the part. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tie-Rod-En...076?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10#viTabs_0
Bingo I found the ones in post 10 in the Pete & Jakes catalog https://www.peteandjakes.com/partslist/page/31/ They also have straight arms (that would have to be dropped) with two eyes on both sides https://www.peteandjakes.com/parts/part-1107s-super-bell-straight-steering-arms-pair/
hello , I think I just want forged steel arms. I have rhd so-cal ones already but the drop isn't enough for reference I have these next ones are designed for a 5'' dropped axle not a 4'' one... - for hairpins EXTRA drop for wishbones is 3 3/4''
They are only making one arm and machining it and bending it for left hand drive. The arm they make has the double eye and is straight, then it's bent and machined with the eye being cut off the left side. I would contact Pete&Jake's and ask Jason if he would make you a pair for right hand drive?
Well Ford did. In the past I've taken a RHD left spindle and a LHD right spindle and dropped the arms. Dropping them reduces the length. So I've used the outer holes for the tie rod and the Jeep the rod end to attach the steering. This ensures your tie rod isn't too close to the axle. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
so - he must get them stamped elsewhere and finish machine them in house? -so the likelihood of him having the raw unmachined blanks is high? -so it could be possible to buy a pair with eyes both sides? the addition to the catalogue might be a tad long winded...... -ambidextrous forged deep drop 35-48 steering arms for wishbones utilising a 4'' dropped axle -I would wager the original inventor at chassis engineering also put the ackermann triangle in them for a 112 inch wheel base - over 104/6, not that it makes much difference if using a 46'', 47'' or 48'' width axle
while I am on...…… so I was looking for a tie rod end that maybe had a longer pin I happen to have a 1994 ford mustang tie rod end laying about, it shares the 1.5'' per foot 7 degree taper, and is a good fit in an early ford steering arm. - it also fits a mustang 2 spindle, - maybe early ford tie rod ends fit mustang 2 spindles. -these numbers are on the internet for the 95 mustang tie rod end cone cone size .554 to top of taper - .626 bottom. so I looked for available tie rods that had both left and right threads, with similar cone numbers I would bet that a tie rod with a cone of .543 and .630 shares a 1.5 inches per foot 7 degree taper the steering arms meat is just a tad thicker...….. getting to the point. a dodge w100 truck from 1987 has a tie rod with this taper. available with left and right threads BUT, the threads are .750 - 16 or 3/4'' unf groovy I thought as I could use 1'' bars with a 5mm wall 1'' bar for .750'' rod end 11/16 drill for tap or 25.4mm 5mm wall cds, leaves a bore of 15.4, tap drill size 17mm 4mm of wall thickness around thread - stout! so I then looked for left and right handed plug and taper taps - easy to find 3/4 unf 1'' 5mm wall cds tube - easier than 7/8's to get the looked at the ball joints https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3575733&cc=1100204 ooh, has the later style boot and clip ooh they even color code them for left and right - DODGE RAMCHARGER 1986-1993 DODGE W100 PICKUP 1986-1989 DODGE W150 PICKUP 1986-1993 DODGE W250 PICKUP 1986-1993 check list for models- 3/4'' then it struck me... because you are now using 1'' bars, you can look for other tie rod ends at 3/4 OR m18 that opens the scope for pitman arms -for example, you could then fit a jeep grand Cherokee m18-1.5 tie rod end into the 1'' bar, it would fit a 1 1/8 sector shaft of a Saginaw 800
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