Technical 1963 Ford A/C Unit

So, the other day I bought a 63 Galaxie parts car. I plan on using some parts on my 2 dr ht 63 Galaxie 500. It has an original FORD under dash a/c unit that I want to install in mine. My question is, Should I use all of the original parts, or is there a "kit" that i can retrofit to the under dash unit.? I imagine that it doesn't work properly. ( I haven't tried it). I do know that it is complete, and the compressor is not locked up.

 

Check with @Boneyard51. He probably has the information you're looking for.

 

Have probably the exact same unit in my COE. As long as the blower motor spins it should work. Get all the hoses, even the compressor if still there. Comp may be useable or not. The evap unit works fine on R134a. You will need as good of condenser as possible, the old R12 tube and fin are lacking for R134a. R134a needs more efficient condenser. The evap unit is as thermal expansion valve, technically calibrated for R12, but works on R134a.
On my installation I used Sanden comp and custom hoses. Charge with gages on both low and high side. Use R134a compatible oil, not the R12 mineral oil.

I also have a similar old under dash evap unit in my 52 GMC. Dame deal, on R134a. But the comp is the GM R4, only because I had it and brackets on donor SBC.

Sent from dumb operator on a smart phone

 

Curious as to what we can learn on this one. I have one of these units too. Bought it in Florida in the 90's for my 64 Falcon, and haven't used it yet.
Well, I hope I still have one. Shed it was in fell with this year's snow. Might have two halves of one...

 

Thanks 38Chevy454. I haven't gotten the car home yet, so I'm not sure of the overall condition. I know that it looks complete. (I know it goes against all of the rules .. but I got kinda giddy when I saw all of the options that the donor car was equipped with. I might get it home and it all be junk. lol) it always seems better in my memory than in person.

 

you might be surprised.

If you look around, you might be able to find some R-12, also. It still works, you know.

 

Is there anything (seals, valves) should be replaced when I have it out?

 

Is it still all sealed up? no disconnected hoses?

 

Yes it is sealed up.

 

See if it will hold a vacuum. (see if it has a Freon charge in it already, first)

 

Ok, I'll try that.

 

The old underdash units use flare type seals on the connections. So there is no rubber seal. Just the metal tapered surface. That's why I said to get the the old hoses so you can know what the connections are when you get new hoses made up. You might even get lucky and the parts donor car has all the pieces you can use as-is. The condenser won't be ideal, but it will work. Just for maximum cooling you need the new high efficiency parallel flow condensers like R134a vehicles use. Without getting too technical, it has to do with the properties of the refrigerant and R134a needs more cooling of the hot compressed vapor/liquid before it goes to the evaporator. Also be sure to use gages on both sides when charging, if in doubt leave slightly undercharged for better results. R134a does not do well if overcharged.
Also if you have R12, that is great. Just that it costs a lot more and it requires a license to buy. You can get R134a for cheaper and almost anywhere. Either can work, I have proof that R134a works in my 60's Ford add-on underdash unit that is in my COE, and my 52 GMC. Is either system optimized? No, but it makes plenty of cold air and that is what counts.

 

I've converted several R12 units to R134A. Other than flushing the system out with rubbing alcohol and refilling with the proper oil and R134A I didn't change anything else but the fill fittings. I won't say they were correct, but they worked and blew cold air. On most systems, 3 12 oz cans were just enough, with a 4 oz can of oil. Others may have had different results.....

 

I would use a more modern compressor that would have less drag on the engine,I have one of those a/c units that might go in my custom 500 and that is what I am planning on doing. There are adapter brackets available to put the modern compressor on the original mounts.

 

Why use junk R12 parts? Vintage Air sells an under dash unit for about $350.00. You can buy a brand new Sanden 508 Compressor for about $200.

 

Vintage Air shows a rebuilding service for the 61-63 Galaxie factory units. The “call for quote” part is rather ominous, though.

Most of the aftermarket units I have seen don’t look very traditional, unless they use actual factory pieces for all the exposed parts in the vehicle interior.

 

I want to use the old underdash unit because it's an original piece and will look original to the car.

 

I was just thinking about cooling efficiency. Theres very little difference in looks between vintage and Vintage Air under dash hang on units.

 

The biggest thing is to get a system sanitary and leak free.
There are refrigerant options. R-12 in a leak free R-12 system is optimal. R-12 is still available out there, but I stress leak free system. R-409 is a great substitute for R-12. Personally, I dislike R-134 all around unless the system was specifically designed for it. R-12 takes a mineral oil and R-134 uses a POE oil.
The way to go about sanitary is the obvious with making sure that there is no particulate matter and contamination in the system. You have to use things that are compatible with the system to clean/flush with. Unfortunately those products are available at refrigeration supply houses that typically won't sell to you unless you have a contractors license. Talk to your refrigeration buddy. Mobile refrigeration is different than the home A/C so a local Thermo King or Transicold dealer tech might be a resource.
Another approach, to clean the system, is then to use Nitrogen and oil compatible with the system blowing out the system using the oil as a cleaning agent. Flushing/purging the system with Nitrogen also removes moisture...an enemy of a closed circuit refrigeration system. A new filter/dryer is paramount.
System tightness should be checked with pressurized Nitrogen a minimum of 200 psig and no pressure loss for an hour. Soap, I like Dawn dish soap and water in a spray bottle, all joints. Repair leaks as necessary.
All non condensables should be removed by pulling a vacuum on the system. In the industry, 500 microns is a target minimum. If you can't achieve this there is an inbound leak somewhere.
I'd use your system and once it is out it can be cleaned up easily.
New hoses are a wise investment in my mind along with a modern compressor...if your old one is good list it for sale for the restorer. It is going to take some fiddling around with the old and new to get it to work and good practices are good practices setting up a proper engine build or rehabbing an old A/C system.
My $0.02