Hot Rods # 10 Track Roadster Build- Marty Strode

When you get a chance, could you expound on your body mounting procedure? I’m just not visualizing it.
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Raven, it will be clear, once the body mounting rails are tacked in place, and the body is removed. I have been getting the rear axle assy ready to install, the housings have been hot-tanked, and blasted. At this time I installed the open drive ring and pinion, had to swap the spider gears from 11 to 12 tooth, to match the 18 tooth 37 axles.

 

Today, I got the rear spring stretched, and installed, along with mounting the rear axle. Next will come the modifications to the rear arms. Sorry about all of the clutter in the photos.

 

Very interesting “spring stretcher”. More nice work

 

It comes in handy for quickchanges, with the offset.

 

What do you use to spread it? A porta power/inerpac?

 

It uses 1" all thread, and with a 1-1/2" wrench, turn the nuts to stretch the spring, simple and effective.

 

If Archimedes were around today, I think he'd like to hang out with you

 

Alan, after your mention of Archimedes, I learned he was born in Sicily, I thought he was from Arkansas.

 

Marty, I have no experience putting power to those old rear ends. Do you think it will live with sticky tires and your trans/motor combo?

 

The weak link is the axle keys, but with skinny 700 X 16's and being somewhat careful it should survive.

 

If it doesn't, we have ways!

 

I have (2) VW Bus steering boxes in my stash, a ZF and a Ross. After choosing the Ross, I tore it down for inspection, and found it to be in great condition. The plan is to install the steering and pedals this week. One reason for the slow progress is, I am putting the finishing touches on my '40 Pu chassis, getting the rear stabilizer bar installation complete this weekend.

 

Marty, are you going to use one of those bus banjo wheels on it?

 

Marty, ya shoulda called me before you started on your 40.

 

I know, I know !

 

It's going to get a 40 Ford wheel and column cup.

 

Mr. Strode, a couple questions, if I may?
1. I'm sure you got those VW boxes when they were not as valued as they would be today. Is there another alternative that would work and be reasonable if you didn't have these already?
2. I've seen so many rear stabilizer bars mounted this way (on the axle), but it seems like it would be better to hang it in the chassis and attach to links on each side of the suspension. I realize the unsprung weight savings isn't as great with a complete rear axle, but it just seems like it's 50/50 on mounting but most do it this way. What are your reasons for hanging it on the axle? Easier to control stiffness rather than build it into the Chassis?

 

You are correct, in the 90's I could buy those boxes for as little as $50 bucks, then they went up to $150. With the value of early VW Vans, I don't have any idea what a steering box is worth these days, and never thought of an alternative. As far as the stabilizer mounting, GM mounted the bar to the rear axle on their coil spring applications. One thing I wanted, was a clear path for the tailpipes to route between the shock and the frame rail, ending up, outside the fuel tank. My goal was to limit body roll, created by a transverse spring, and make it a pleasure to drive. In all reality, I probably should have gone with parallel springs, as my buddy Dale (Weedburner 40) would have prescribed, the rolled pan would have hid the rear spring hangers.

 

Nah, but his nickname was Arky

 

More questions about anti-roll bar. Do your other track roadsters have one? Do you notice big difference in handling with or without? Would decrease unsung weight if mounted to frame which in light car might help handling. Do you bend and make the bar? With what material & thickness? Starting build with coil overs & not planning anti-roll bar. Tks

 

Mike, we don't use them on the Track Roadsters, with a wide split on the bones, front and rear, you don't encounter any body roll. The pictures I posted are my '40 pu. In this shot, notice the body angle, and the inside tires are pretty light.

 

What vehicle did that sway bar come out of originally and or what would you recomend for a 2500lb car?

 

It's is a universal 13/16" bar that a friend of mine uses on a wide range of vehicles. I had to reshape the ends to fit my application. Back when we had a spring shop with a heat treating oven, I would bend 4140 in the Hossfeld bender, cold. Weld paddles on the ends to connect the links, and have them heat treated. It was great to build to suit the application. Not sure, but my '40 pickup should weigh in the area of 3000 lbs. I have a 1" bar for the front and 13/16 on the rear, or 20 percent smaller on the rear. I am sure there are some experts on here that could probably help you, more than me. BTW, where is Salt Lick ?

 

Awesome build, great work bud! Also building a track t, great inspiration!

 

That's some very clean tube work on the sway bar crossmember and back bumper. You certainly know how to make that Hossfeld talk! Mine is one of my favorite tools in the shop.

 

Glad to hear that, can't have too many Track Roadsters.

 

Tube bending is my favorite aspect of scratch car building. With the cost of dies these days, I have been making inserts to add to die radius selection. Simply bend a 180, and saw the tube down the middle, making an insert to bush the die down to the next smaller size, and use the holding and follow shoe of the smaller size.

 

I have used early '50s Ford pickup boxes, made by Gemmer. They are also popular upgrade conversion boxes for Model As. I'm not sure if they are any cheaper than a VW box because they are somewhat in demand, but there are a lotta lot of '50s Ford pickups out there that have been upgraded to IFS and R&P so they're around. Shorten the steering shaft to suit (use a sleeve rosebud welded in for safety).

 

"Marty, I have no experience putting power to those old rear ends. Do you think it will live with sticky tires and your trans/motor combo?"

Higher than average tire pressure can help, too.