Technical Minimum size compressor for shop work?

I've got a Devilbiss 5hp 220 volt 60 gallon that I bought about 20 years ago. It's got an aluminum compressor and it's kinda loud, but not as loud as an oilless compressor is. It's still got the same flat ribbed belt on it that came on it, and it's been ran a lot. I think it was made in either TN or MS, I bought it at a tool store that sells a lot of imported tools. {Not HF} I've painted a couple of cars with it, ran 1/2" impacts, grinders and die grinders with it. Think I gave about $500 for it back then, new.

 

It sounds like you are a part timer, You need a bit of air but not all the time. Just go out and buy a $750 to $900 dollar air compressor at a farm and country type store. Plumb it up to your other tank and you will have plenty of air when you need it. Been using that style for 25 years now. Use mine almost every day. On my second one now. My other spare tank is being used by a friend who is doing a ground up on a 58 Pontiac. The extra air tank is helping him when doing body work and painting. I was using the tank as a mobile air supply.

 

I've got a 80 gal, single stage husky pro I bought 9 or 10 yrs ago. I bought it used, it was 5 yrs old then. Never had a problem other than the pressure release valve.

First 5 yrs I owned it I worked it 5 hrs a day non stop 7 days a week. It ran great although I wish it was 2 stage for sand blasting outside.

Every 2 yrs I change the oil, use Mobil 1 synthetic and again still runs strong! 500 used so I'd say it's payed for itself.

 

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Saturday 3/7 update.
First off thanks so much to everyone for your advise and what you have. This is exactly why Rayan and his team put the HAMB together and work hard to keep it what it has become.
I have decided that my best option is finding a good replacement motor no matter how hard that may be. This is a Campbell U. 60 Gallon upright all plumbed in with delivery through PVC to a hose reel. It's sitting in the back corner of my 47 foot long shop and getting it out by myself would not be possible. I have the burned out motor sitting beside me in my office. I'm posting the info that is on the side. BTW it weighs about the same as the USS Enterprise aircraft carrier.

First info from the shop guy who replaced the capacitor.
5 HP,...…..56 Frame.…….Open drip (what ever that means, ((may be in reference to me))………...230 volt.
Info on side of the motor.
Make is MagneTeck M Century Electric
then there's a catalog number
hpl SPL, 3450 RPM, hz 60, ph 1 sf 1.1
Volts 230 AMPS 15
time Cont AMB 40 centigrade (I guess), Insul Class B, encl DP, code D
Thermally Protected KM, Form KHH, (the serial number)
KW-2.98
MC006100AV
So in my search knowing the Frame size, the HP, voltage and amps, rpms, and output shaft size
is the most important I guess. I'll pull up MagneTeck to begin with and see whats there and the cost.
So here I goes once again. Thanks all.

 

Let us all know what you decide and how it all turns out...

 

That's good news, sorta. That '5hp' motor is the most inexpensive compressor motor available. That's why it is labeled 'SPL', slightly overrated when you compare the amp draw to 'real' 5hp units.

But, that also means that lots of them are available cheaply. IMO, just go to eBay and buy one that suits your fancy. No need to compare anything but price since that style all seem to be about the same. I've used HF replacements, as well as the higher price ones. They all worked. And you could be 3 of the cheap ones for the price of one brand name units.

example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/5HP-Air-Co...394796?hash=item4212fcbcac:g:wmQAAOSwv9JeSuSf

 

PLEASE change this before it blows and sends shrapnel flying.

 

Really hate flying shrapnel .
Maybe need some explanation here. I'd guess your saying 120 PSI will blow out the wall and or fitting connections of the piping??

 

Well search was pretty easy really. I sourced a motor here in my back yard and as much as I hate the son-of-abitchin place with a passion for what it has made Seattle into, I will force myself to buy there.
Talk'in, Amazon.
I already tried to do so and was unsuccessful because they have an old cc number on file from 10 years ago and I cant get past that, I have to contact customer service says they. Shit and more Shit I hate that god *&^% place.!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Maximum operating and required minimum bursting pressures at 73oF (23oC) for PVC pipe fittings according ASTM D1785 "Standard Specification for Poly Vinyl Chloride (PVC) Plastic Pipes Schedules 40 and 80 are indicated in the diagram and table below:





PVC
Nominal Pipe Size
(inches) Required Minimum Burst Pressure
(psi)
Maximum Operating Pressure
(psi)
Schedule 401) Schedule 802) Schedule 40 Schedule 80
1/2 1910 2720 358 509
3/4 1540 2200 289 413
1 1440 2020 270 378
1 1/4 1180 1660 221 312

Pat

 

Well at work we had 3/4" schedule 40 and it lasted about 2 yrs then started bursting. After 3 or 4 different breaks in about 2 months we replaced it with black pipe. That was 1984 and black pipe still going strong....

Btw we run 135 psi.

 

Thanks 1934coupe. I served a plumbing apprenticeship for the USAF gaining a journeyman card way back in 1960 and thought I knew what I was doing in '94 when building my garage/shop. But then I thought well...……. Mr. T Body may know something new about pvc that I don't.
Sure feel reassured now.

 

34 Larry
Please spend some time on the hamb, garage journal or the internet reading about the dangers of using pvc for air lines. Max operating psi and burst strength is not the issue. The issue is that if it gets damaged like being bumped or hit, it will burst and send shrapnel all over you shop. The shrapnel will be sharp, pointed shards flying around your shop. It happened to a friend of mine, he was lucky and the shrapnel missed him.
Greg

 

Those pressure test listed above are when manufactured. Not when it`s a few tears old. Try those tests on your pipe now. Would you feel safe. If so build up pressure and report your results.

 

Chief and stanlow thank you for your suggestions. I mentioned serving an apprenticeship in the service in the plumbing field gaining a journeymen card in half the time of civilians. I had to run air lines in a B47 hanger for changing tires, (witnessed a fatality when a rim exploded, very sad). The tire changing machines by regulation had to be in a cinder block enclosure with the air supply coming to them fed from over head for obvious reasons. I did the same with my compressor when plumbing it, running the lines next to the wall over head though the apex of the truss and rafter to the reel, thus protecting them from potential unintended damage resulting from any shop work or damage from most shop work.
Of course this does not stop a blow out because of material age/time fatigue which of course is an issue to consider. I appreciate your concern a lot. I suppose I should look into that but being on a ladder with tare out and replacement at (81) I think would be more hazardless than risking a explosive accident. Thanks again for your concern.

 

I run a 5HP 80 gallon Ingersoll-Rand, best money I have ever spent is putting a HF dryer on it. Cured any and all moisture problems and was inexpensive to do.

 

My compressor is an ancient Gardner-Denver that was removed from a grading and earthmoving equipment service truck about 60 years ago, along with it's worn out old B&S one lunger gas engine and a 60 gal. tank, and I've used it about 50 yrs. The gas engine I replaced with a 7.5 hp 3ph 230 V elec. motor and the whole works is stacked on top of an 80 gal. tank. As a consideration of the old tank issue previously raised by @Blues4U , I have the pressure set at 125psi. My 3/4" sch 40 pvc down 60' thru the shop lasted approx 28 years before popping with a startling bang but no shrapnel. I replaced it with Sch 80.
I put rings, valves (flapper type), and refitted the rod bearings about 25 years ago. While I was at it, after talking with the tech guy at the shop where I got parts about my use and plans for synthetic oil (Amsoil) use, I also kicked up pump rpm about 40% with a bigger motor pulley, was about 475, now about 590 or so.
Few years ago I sold my boat prop repair equipment and inventory. CPA said to buy more equipment or I was gonna pay taxes big time because all that stuff had been depreciated out. So along with more machine tool accessories, etc. I bought an "Eaton" 3 cyl cast iron single stage pump, low rpm, hvy USA made . Single stage because I'm still using those ancient tanks @125psi, and you don't need the high pressure capabilities of a two stage at that level and you do get a bit more volume at that lower pressure, plus you get a much lower price!
Haven't changed them out yet, the old GD is still pumping along, and at the age of 82, I'm sorta wondering which is gonna give out first, that old compressor or me

 

I have an 80 gallon 2 stage belair, bought it from my paint supply about 15 years ago. About 5-6 years in the motor burnt up. I called the phone number on the compressor and they sent me a new motor.... $600 but i had to have it. So about the same amount of years later the motor shit out on me again, this time i went to tractor supply and bought the same motor, exactly, for $229. Worked perfect. Last year it burnt up again, tractor supply still had the motor on the shelf. Maybe you can check them out for your motor Larry...

 

I have good luck with Tractor Supply also.
In my shop, I run two commercial 3 phase compressors hooked together so I can sandblast, paint and run several air tool simultaneously, but for the garage at home, I bought one of these from Tractor Supply. It's single stage, but I have had good luck with it.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...5-5-hp-60-gallon-high-capacity-air-compressor
$969.99
Specification Description
Duty Cycle: 100%
Grade: Commercial
Maximum Pressure: 135 PSI
Brand: Ingersoll Rand
Warranty: 1-Year Limited, 2-Year Pump Warranty with IR Lube
Style: Single Stage, Twin Cylinder
Power Type: Electric
Drain System: Manual
Phase: Single
Tank Type: Vertical
Product Weight: 310 lb.
Product Width: 20 in.
Air Outlet Size: 1/2 in.
Pump Type: Cast Iron
Product Length: 30 in.
Product Height: 71 in.
CFM @ 90 PSI: 18.1
Portable or Stationary: Stationary
Running HP: 5 HP
Tank Size: 60 gal.
Magnetic Starter: No
CARB Compliant: Yes

 

That may be for new pipe. All the plastic denegrates with age/ UV exposure/oil contamination ..

 

Get the compressor out of the dusty environment , the dust coats the windings and acts as insulation. When the windings can't cool , they fail.

 

Make sure the motor you're buying is either the correct rotation or electrically reversible...

 

I agree totally with PCV pipe. When I put the original compressor on my garage I used PCV pipe. A friend had used it in his garage, it was easy to use, so I tried it. Many years later I had the compressor on, was in the front years doing yard work, heard a loud noise. Went to check it out, found one of the pipes in my plumbing had burst. It had shards of PCV pipe all over the garage. Needless to say I replaced all the PCV with copper pipe.

 

For years I had a compressor that I bought from the local Menards store. It was a single stage and wouldn’t keep up very good. I bought Bel Aire compressor from my paint supplier and love it. It’s a 80 gal tank, 5 hp. At 100 psi has 15 cfm at 175 psi it has 13.75 cfm, it’s 2 stage and so far has been a good investment.

 

A quick tip.

Probably obvious to most of you, but was a recent realization for me.

When trying to determine the condition of a used air compressor. A pretty good way to determine the overall condition of the pump. Remove the oil fill cap while the compressor is running. If you detect air pressure coming from the crankcase, it has blow-by.

Sent from my VS835 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Dumb question # 1001 from 34Larry. How do I determine the direction of rotation?
I posted all data that is on the sticker in a post up above. I see nothing indicating the DOR.

 

PVC is rated for water pressure not air pressure. BIG difference. Water doesn't compress, air does so if the pipe fails with air in it it goes off like a bomb. No plumbing PVC is rated for air use and there is not a manufacturer out there that doesn't state not for use with air.

https://www.lascofittings.com/compressed-air-and-pvc

https://www.slpipe.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/PVC-Compressed-Air.pdf

 

This is exactly why I didn't slave in my old compressor. It was rated at a max of 125# and my new compressor runs at 175#.

 

I have been curious about Pex tubing. If it ruptured, it wouldn't or shouldn't throw shrapnel. I know it is UV sensitive and eventually would degrade, but we are talking about fishing it underground at dad's. He built a small shop out about 90' behind his house and doesn't want to have 2 compressors. We may snake it through conduit and see what happens.

 

Google definition;
Compressed air is stated as pounds per square inch gauge (psig). These plants or systems are classified as low- pressure (0 to 125 psig), medium-pressure (126 to 399 psig), or high-pressure (400 to 6,000 psig) systems.
(Info) gained off the innerweb. I searched google for, " what is considered high pressure compressed air"

Very confusing info being passed here.
Bursting pressure for 3/4 sch. 40 on the graph chart shows something just under 2000 PSI.
As defined above then, because I only run 125 PSI I'm running low pressure.
I'm not disputing any ones opinion with this just doing my best to understand all my options.
Am I to assume all who had explosions ran greater than 125 PSI?
I do also appreciate the concern being expressed, and I'm just trying to avoid removing the PVC and replacing with black pipe or copper.

K13 You said in your post, "PVC is rated for water pressure not air pressure". Is there a difference in pressure whether its air or water? I always understood pressure to be pressure no matter the medium being transferred.