Projects Hillbilly Model T speedster (attempt #2)

This is a pic of a 1914 column by Martin Vowell that is used in the parts catalog. It's a little different, but you get the idea of what you need. I believe all the gear parts are the same until the 5:1 ratio in 1926.

 

I just came across this piece
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Stee...MIzqeRgY3p5wIVC5yzCh3hgg23EAQYAiABEgIzPPD_BwE

The T set up won't work with traditional steering. So what I'm going to do is modify it to run under the dash into a Ross style box, and shoot the arm out the side of the cowl. Then the rods for the spark and throttle are another headache...

I do need that cone part #3504.

 

Hillbilly, this might give you some ideas.

 

First time using an english wheel. Things went pretty smoothly. I did learn that you can't bead roll over hardened aluminum. It rips. So i also learned how to anneal aluminum..

 

I was trying to get more information about the Chev special I asked about in post 138. The Back issues of the Rome Sentinel are not online. I did find an article about the 1927 race in the Sept 22, 1927 issue of the Journal & Republican from Lowville, NY. Lowville is the county seat of Lewis county, the next county north.

I read through the August 1926 issues, but there was no coverage of the race. Since no Lewis county people were mentioned in the 1927 article, I'm guessing the wreck was the primary reason for running it. BTW, judging by the dates, the fair week ad you posted was for 1922.
In any case, the cowl looks great. Looking forward to more updates.

 

Hard to imagine there was a time when you could buy this for $25.00. Bob

 

Especially with OHV conversion

 

Bob, I hope you jumped on that one for $25.

 

Now that I think about it I did win a T speedster project back in the 1970's at the Tiny Gould auction. Brass T radiator, BB RAJO, Ruxtell rear, 20 inch Daytons on the front, 20 inch Bufallos on the back, for $750.00. Everything is now gone except for the T block. bob

 

Bob, i was going to make a crack about you not buying that $25 special while you were there, but I'll be nice.

I'm taking baby steps on the car. Time is at a minimum, and when i do work on the car it seems like very little gets accomplished. But am very happy with how it's turning out.

Today i finished my mounting tabs to mount the cowl to the fire wall, bolted it all down with brass hardware, took it all apart and added another bead along the front of the cowl.
obviously I'll have to go back and planish a bit later on.

The side panels will rivet on. I will be continuing the bead down the front to meet with the hood, and will also continue the raised bead down the length of the car...

 

The pop rivets are temporary. I have solid rivets waiting. I'll have to go back and clean up the lines with a dolly, i wish i didnt try and make that 90 so tight...

 

Question: how is the wood framing attached to the sheet metal in a Model T? Screws through the outside?

 

The metal is crimped/bent over the wood. Small tacks attach the metal from the backside. The area that the tacks go through is quite narrow, just enough bend over to allow surface area for the tacks to go through. Nothing is visible from the outside. I don't believe screws were ever used.

 

Here are some photos of a typical, 1915-1925 Model T door. Not sure how well you can see in these photos, but this is the back of the door. Hopefully the closeup shows you the bent over ridge where the tacks go through and attach to the wood inner structure. All of the body sheet metal that attaches to wood is bent over like this-side panels, etc.
Hope this helps.
Your sheet metal fabrication looks great. I like where you are going with the body design.

 

I spent some time on the boat tail today, let's just say these kicked my ass. I'll be honest, the thought of gas welding these panels together is giving me agita...

 

^^^^^ I was told you need a blue lenses to gas weld aluminum. Bob

 

That's what i read. I bought a pair of goggles that have those funky rainbow colors on them, like sunglasses. They do work good enough to see the puddle, and the flash from the flux isn't a problem. I just need to practice, i don't have the confidence to weld on something good yet.

 

Used to Heli arc aluminum bodies back in the 1970's, really liked it. Never had the opportunity to TIG anything, one of those Bucket List items I'd like to check off. Bob

 

I always thought heli arc and tig were the same?

 

Hillbilly, they are. It was originally called heliarc because helium gas was used where now its usually argon gas.

 

Thanks, The Heli arc unit I used was for aluminum only, water cooled torch with a foot pedal. Really was fun. So long ago I wonder if it is like riding a bicycle could I be TIG welding in a day? Doing aluminum bodywork was a lot easier than steel. Bob

 

How did you do away with the planetary gears up top, and that short center gear? Years ago someone did a setup like that and had something like 12 turns lock to lock with the stock T upper gears. Bob

 

I like how this is coming together. Will be interested to see the boattail section.

 

Bob, it's just a longer center shaft of 4130 steel that replaced the original shaft and gear setup.

 

Figured you had things figured out, but it is a good story to tell once in a while. Bob

 

I haven't been on the HAMB for a while and discovered this thread just yesterday. I read the whole thing, and I'm digging it! Since I've been a Model T guy for quite some time, I thought when I first began reading this that I might be able to lend some experience from a Model T'ers point of view, but it looks as if several knowledgeable T'ers are already on board. I'll just watch the progress and enjoy.

 

By all means, please contribute. I don't know jack about these cars, and want to learn all I can. I've been putting off all mechanical stuff as that's not my strong point, just a monkey with a wrench really. That, and because I've been collecting parts as they've become available cheap and local. I want to get the body "finished" then tear everything down and rebuild. The way things are going the body shouldn't take much longer.

. When the time comes I'll be asking loads of questions...

 

When you get to the point of rebuilding the Model T parts of the vehicle, I suggest (as others have) that you hook up with some T folks in your area. Model T's are not more difficult to work on than other cars, but they are different. So you'll need to learn how things were done "back in the day" in order to work on a T. Or you can hire someone who is familiar with T's to do that part of the build for you. But from what I've seen in this thread so far, hiring someone else to do it for you isn't your style. I still suggest that you get some local T'ers to guide you through it. One tremendous website, "Model T Tips" (http://modelt-tips.com/) is a great place for you to study up on how to work on pretty much any part of a Model T. Mike Bender, who builds Model T engines for a living, and Bill Howell, the camera and computer guy, have spent countless hours creating this site. It'll point you in the right direction. One thing you'll learn there is that all of the engine and transmission components need to be aligned and balanced. This is especially critical for a Speedster engine, since it'll be running at higher rpm's than for a car which is used for parades and ice cream trips. Another suggestion, since you'll be running at higher r's, is to look into a SCAT crankshaft. They are much stronger than a Model T crank, but of course they're expensive. It's worth looking into, since the stock T crank is relatively fragile. Good luck!

 

Anyone know if a Fordson tractor uses the same coils and box as my car? I found what looks like a good deal on parts

 

The Fordson coil box is different. I'm not sure about the coils themselves, but I don't see why Ford would have made different ones for the tractors. You can contact Brent Mize at https://www.coildoctor.com/ to find out for sure. Also, if your "good deal" on coils includes ones which will need to be rebuilt, I recommend that you send your cores to Brent.