On an old thread for a Chevy steering box it was mentioned hitting the pitman shaft (sector shaft) upwards after loosening the sector screw. Good idea? And: Can the worm bearings (big lock nut on the end) be adjusted without removing the pitman arm, just raise the wheels off the ground, run the screw in and back off a bit, make sure it's not binding, like adjusting a front wheel bearing? What is used for lube and how full? Fill plug in the top. In the past on the few steering boxes I have adjusted, I just ran the sector screw in till if felt good to me. Want to do this one right.
There are a bunch of old Chevy shop manuals online, if you want the opinion of the guys who made it. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/ If you have the steering gear "off center" then you can adjust the end cap with the thing still assembled, and the wheels off the ground, but you'll have to kind of fudge it a little, because there is still some friction in the steering linkage etc. I don't know that tapping the pitman shaft is needed or a good idea...it should be "free" and follow the adjusting bolt. I do know that the pitman shaft bushings wear and that's usually the cause of looseness in these recirculating ball steering boxes. Lube...grade 00 grease, which is thin, and not too much, I think 12 fluid ozs? Definitely not to the plug.
I’ve read about the particular box you’re working on, the professionals make it out to be like rocket science and they are probably correct, but I believe Squirrel has you on the right path. John Deere corn head grease is what I’ve heard works well.
I used Deere corn head grease in the steering box of my 55. It was the only flowable grease that I could find locally. So far so good.
Corn head grease is a light grease, and works. Can't find it around here, though...so I've recently used 00 grease from Tractor Supply. Another source is CV joint grease. You want something that flows, but is thicker than oil, so it won't leak out so fast, and will stay in the upper bearing.
No Deere grease around here either but Tractor Supply has 'Cotton Picker 00 Spindle Grease', sounds good. I'll try to get at that end nut for the worm adjust but it's pretty tight, may have to just go with the sector screw. Dog is 4 now, almost 50 lbs. and the truck is painted so he's not getting up there again but he's sure looking forward to riding in it again. A pal stopped by yesterday with his '56 Ford, snapped a pic. Thanks for the help.
If the box is in good condition, no rust or metal chunks inside, then the worm bearings are probably still OK, and in adjustment. They're barrel or ball bearings, depending on what year/model it is, they last forever if maintained. But the pitman shaft bushings wear out, so the screw usually needs adjusting, at least, if you're not replacing the bushings. Some times the bushings are fine, they do tend to wear out in truck steering gears.
Well I decided to check the worm adjusting nut. Was about a flat from zero lash. Seems to be fairly obvious where that is, like a front wheel bearing. The manual says take off the drag link and adjust to an inch pound or two at the wheel, I forget exactly, after backing off the sector adjuster. Does that imply there is some preload on the worm bearings? I put it back at zero lash, seem to work OK but don't want to hurt the box.
Slight pre load is fine with pit man backed off then adjusted snug on center. Could use. 600w Model A trans oil. Good trim; on the dog too!
Here is a Chevrolet steering box repair manual from 1952, the adjustment procedures apply to most all makes of steering boxes so it might help clear up some questions you have. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/booklets/52mts20/5220mts01.htm#google_vignette
I've always let the tires hang free, and then once the locknut was backed off, I tighten the adjusting screw just using thumb and index finger on the screwdriver handle. Doing it this way avoids getting things too tight, and never had an issue. Hold the screw slot when tightening the locknut, so it wont get tighter.
Thanks guys. I had kind of an odd reason for checking out the worm adjustment. The car (56 Vette) has had a sharp knocking noise over harsh bumps. Sure sounded like something in the steering column but couldn't feel anything in the wheel or find anything loose. The column is one piece all the way to the worm (I'm pretty sure), all inside a tube running all the way from the wheel to the box. and is almost horizontal. So I though maybe if the worm bearings were loose enough maybe they were knocking up and down. So my turning it in a little bit helped, I think, but finding bumps large enough to cause the knock are not easy to find.
Here's how I was taught back in the early 80's by a gent who had done nothing but frontend work for 40 yrs. Still do it this way Jack up car, get tires off ground. Turn to lock. Have someone hold tire against bump stop. Feel the end play at the end of gear with steering wheel. You should be able to put steering wheel against the stop and it stay there. If it moves with no resistance loosen end lock and tighten big nut 1/4 turn. Feel it again. Steering wheel should stay where ever you put it in the end play at the end of the gear travel with tire against bump stop. If it feels good then turn it to the other side and feel it again. If its still loose go another 1/4 turn and try again... NOW if turning back to the other end of travel you feel it trying to bind thru the center of travel loosen the top adjusting nut until the bind is gone. Right now we are just adjusting the end bearing. Tightening the end bearings will definitely have an effect on the top adjuster. Once we have end bearing adjusted and it feels just a whisker snug on the ends NOT TIGHT OR BINDING! Then tighten the lock ring and feel again. If you feel roughness on the ends if travel then you probably have either a dry box or bad bearing. With that all done now adjust the top nut. Adjust it by grabbing the rag joint and lightly moving it back and forth and watching the pitman arm. Slowly adjust down a 1/4 turn at a time until you see the pitman arm move with the rag joint. Once happy then drive it. If it feels loose driving then tighten down 1/4 turn at a time. If you go too tight it will NOT want to return when you turn a corner and let go of steering wheel it will not want to return. So loosen a 1/4 turn until the steering wheel wants to come back to center. After doing the above put a few miles on it to allow the gears to mesh properly. After that if its still loose adjust top nut again. If it still loose and gets to a point were its tight enough it doesnt want to return then you have a worn shaft or the bottom bushing is bad allowing the shaft to move sideways in the gear box and thats the play your actually feeling while driving.... Over 40 yrs I've been doing it this way with absolutely no problems ever and many many happy customers !$
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