Projects Joe's American Graffiti Coupe with a Man A Fre (Milner Coupe Clone)

We have definitely talked about that as well. We should finally be able to generate decent vacuum with all 4 carbs tuned. Here's the engine's parts information. I don't know if it's helpful to you.

Parts; 1- HK500 kit; stainless valves, springs, retainers, keys, seals rocker studs and guide plates.

ARP parts; oil pump shaft, head bolts, main cap bolts Keith Black pistons w/ Hasting moly rings Eagle AIR con-rods Scorpion aluminum rockers arms Crane cam & lifter kit Engine Pro HT push rods Comp Cams timing set Melling oil pump & screen Clevite main, rod and cam bearings SBI nickel exhaust valve seats Victor engine gasket set Mr.G 179 extra thick valve cover gaskets Pioneer brass block plug kit Autolite # 303 spark plugs 10 qts. Castrol 30w HD Fram PH30 (oil & filter changed after test run)

You'll see the cam info in the attachment.


I wouldn't be surprised if I needed a more friendly cam. My carbs are 1957 2G carbs with the larger 1958 bowls. Thank you for all the great advice. Any feedback is very much respected and appreciated.

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Here's the official specs from Crane....

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What do y'all think? Was this a pretty aggressive engine build? I really have no compass here.

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Auto or Manual? Gears? Old School performance (open type intake being one) were designed with rpm in mind to work.

 

That caught my attention as well. Then I started wondering if he meant the idle mixture screws or the idle speed screws.

Do these 4x2 setups need to have the idle speed set individually at each carb? Or is there an idle speed adjustment made somewhere in the throttle linkage? Or is it a combination of both?

 

I agree.
Plus,FYI,take a look at your valve cover gasket,you see the extra bolt holes that are down on the bottom?
i like to put those holes to the top,and fill them with sealer,the gasket is very thin in that area and they will leak.
Its not your vacuum problem,just an fyi.

 

Every multiple carb setup I've ever seen, motorcycle or car, sports car or hot rod, (except for progressive systems) each carb has it's own idle speed adjustment as well as idle mixture adjustment, and each carb needs to be adjusted individually but in synch with the rest. I cannot imagine a system where that isn't the case.

 

I'm beginning to think that too! We'll see!

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It's a 4 speed, T-10. So yes?

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Yes. I was referring to the idle speed screws. It previously was using only one screw for all 4 carbs.

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Ok. I'll look at that! Thanks.

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That was exactly our thinking! The idle adjustment cam that holds the screws was also missing on 3 carbs. This was stressing the linkage and allowing at least 2 of the carbs to completely close their butterflies at idle. Bad news! No wonder the engine was angry!

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That also explains why the car would run a little better with more throttle. The butterflies we're also sticking as they are never meant to be completely closed! Wish I would have understood that sooner!

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It looks like the 2GCs use the same screw to adjust the curb (base) idle speed and the fast idle speed (for cold starting with the choke applied). Am I seeing that correctly?

If that's the case you'll definitely need to have the fast idle cams and linkages in place on all carburetors. And for tuning the engine at operating temperatures make sure that the choke valves are fully open on all carbs. Maybe even consider wiring the choke linkage in the fully open position. And be sure that the idle speed screws do contact the fast idle cam at its lowest setting, even if just slightly. I don't think you'll want the throttle blades to be completely closed on any of the carbs, which might also allow them to stick in the throttle bores.

Though it sounds like you're already getting most of these details sorted. Somebody straighten me out on this if I'm thinking about all this the wrong way.

 

We're definitely moving forward. We going to start the tuning process on Wednesday. Hopefully it will go well. We're are going to go very slowly. Balancing carburators first without the linkage. I have the older 2G carbs. They have a different choke set up. It looks like it should have 2 mixture screws and one idle screw for each carburetor.

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old schoolhttps://video.search.yahoo.com/sear...=3a72fd1e250a09ddee49486c26529144&action=view

 

Oh yeah. It's old school to me. Especially considering I'm 40 with no mechanical experience. Thank God I've got my "old school" friends and everyone here on the HAMB!

Also here's a better pic of my carbs. (No idle screw yet) It shows how the idle cam also functions as a throttle stop. Without it the linkage slams the butterflies closed.

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A three bolt Man A Fre manifold must be rare

 

There you go. . . That sounds like the best way to keep everything locked down.

 

Sir,
You say add a washer underneath the small idle screws? That would be a tiny washer. Good idea though....

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^^^^^ Did that years ago on a single carb application because I got tired of varying idle speeds even the choke was disabled. Now imagine that X4.

 

Then this post appears. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-time-has-come-327-in-a-40-ford.1186650/

 

Johnny that's not a Man A Fre

 

Ok. Perfect! We noticed that and added one on each carb. Thank you!

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