Oh, and found my firewall flattening isn’t flat enough. Thinking I’ll buy another length of 1x1.5 to use as a guide to find the high spots. Hopefully a little heat and hammer will get it sorted out, I really would prefer to not have to cut it up and weld it. and it’s not like I won’t have a use for more square tube
Wait.....are you saying you're gonna put lights in your fuel filter? That might look kinda cool ! I have a matched pair of those, all polished up. But the socket and bulb would just sit in the glass....might be kinda ....cheezy? I dunno. Have to cogitate on that for a bit.
Yeah, I’ve seen a bunch of lights made with mason jars and Edison bulbs. Thought maybe it would be a cool under dash light. Put it on a switch and either use it for changing fuses or lighting the car up a little at night when your looking for whatever you dropped I need to play around with how I would drill it and mount the bulb yet Edit: to clarify I won’t be using it for a fuel filter just a light. On that thought you could stick one in the stock placement as an under hood light and no one would give it a second glance I bet
Got most of the holes pre drilled. Need to step up the size for the threw bolts for mounting but the rest I’ll leave small - 1/8th inch- until I know how I’m putting threads in them and what size hole they need to be decided to ditch the fuel filter light and replace it with a little half sphere license plate light mounted to the board with the fuse panel etc. the cardboard with “grounds” on it is a reminder to add some spots for ground lugs. In the last car I ended up with more random things that needed grounded than I’d had anticipated so I figured this time around I’d have a few dedicated spots for grounds to call home.
Got my little shelves that bolt to the A pillars done other than drilling holes in them. I also found the non flat spot in the firewall I need to hammer flat for the brace to fit flush with out clamps. So I’ll need to smooth that out then bolt the brace into the car, then mock these shelves up and drill the holes. With that all done I can finally put the cowl top back on and see what it looks like! looks beefier when it’s not made of cardboard haha. next step after all that stuff is done is to attach the column drop to the dash. Fun Fun
Trent this is the kind of light I ended choosing. I’ll mount it to the panel that the fuse panel goes on. Likely with a switch right next to it. Pretty generic but should work just fine.
I’m kinda curious if you could put a dimmer on that sort of light. I’ve got a few little accent light spots but I’m worried about the available incandescent bulbs being to bright and the LED options being to white/blue. Id assume a voltage drop would dim it? I think that’s probably how it works in a dimmable dash cluster?
I re-mounted mine about 6 to 8 " up from the original placement on the toe panel right near the floor...Why...because I kept switching it on and off while resting the left foot in that area which was a natural area when driving... You're running 3 pedals? I forgot......I just lift my BIG foot up an inch or so and the Switch in right there...The Ole Hotrod is a 29 so I know the landscape is similar but If you have a C pedal than may negate my suggestion...
Yup, Stogy. I have 3 pedals. I mounted mine in approximately the stock location but I guess I've trained my left foot to stay away from the switch.
Another session of heat shrinking and hammering and I think I’ve got it close enough to flat to work. I don’t think any of this think is 90 deg to the flange so I’m thinking close enough is going to be close enough I used these two hammers, small torch and this dolly. you can see the brown primer in the spot that I was working over. The black lines are trails from the hammer blows. I’m basically slapping the hammer and dragging it. Like pushing a bubble out of a sticker if that helps picture it this spot on the ridge/corner is were I was finding most of my interference issues. this is were the metal went when I hammered the corner/ridge. I used heat to shrink it. I never got it red hot but it didn’t take long to see it move and the “bubble” would deflate a little. took a little hammering and shrinking here as well. When your moving metal it has to go somewhere. For the most part I moved the metal with a hammer and then heat shrunk the tension back out right around here the flat flange face started to arch up from moving everything around. Didn’t really see any side to side or front to back movement just up and down. I put a block on the inside side of the firewall and hammered the flange back down. With did move the flat part of the firewall a little bit not a ton. A little back and forth and I think it’s ready to test fit the brace again so I can drill the A pillar mounts and move foreword
Oh and just so I don’t forget about it I found this being prototyped Not in production yet and no prices but it would be a work around for my plan of adding boost if this little banger doesn’t offer enough get up and go
Man with that and the M90 sandblasted to have the same finish as your valve cover, then the block with a vintage hue in high gloss, maybe some brass or copper pieces here and there. Don’t forget a brushed stainless bracket or two. Boy oh boy, delicious! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Truthfully if it needs boost I plan on a Mcculloch/Paxton style blower but this has been plain B to that
That would be way cool! Could you get it under the stock hood? I have a couple of McCullochs laying around and have thought of using one one the roadster.
@Six Ball if I move the alternator from the lower drivers side to the upper passenger side where they put AC and power steering pumps I think I could tuck the blower in where the alternator is now. maybe a small blister in the hood but I doubt it. There’s a good chunk of room there.
My son and I put a McCulloch on his '54 Studebaker wagon without any changes on the outside. It was tough. The Golden Hawk that they came on was basically a Lowe coup with a big bump in the hood. The coupe was 4" longer from the firewall to the radiator. But we did it.
How much boost is that putting out? Also any chance you know rough dimensions? Maybe I’ll make one out of a coffee can and see if it fits lol
My son's puts out about 7 pounds. The car has been down for several years now. I'll try to get you some measurements tomorrow. The plumbing take some room. I have almost a complete setup from a Kaiser flathead six. They used a 2bbl carb in a box. My son worked for a guy that has bee building these for years. His has some special stuff in it. The guy designed a better impeller. Paxton showed interest in it but decided just to steal his design from the one he sent to them to test. Our friend has one on his '60 Stude gasser and is hooking up a TBI with it. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1960-studebaker-lark-gasser.491081/page-7
I have a B banger and a little T body waiting in the wings that I've been planning to put that VS57 that's been collecting dust in my shop on when I finally get to it. Might make for an interesting setup for sure!
Tim I just saw this and had forgotten. So I went back out. These aren't exact but close for rough figuring. Length: 10" Width: 10" Height: 11" The height was measured directly across the intake and outlet ports. There will be some big tubes attached to the back. A cold air intake is best. These things generate some heat. This is the old style with the electrically activated clutch pulley. They can be cut down for a direct drive pulley and that makes the front a little smaller.
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