Ok. I’m breaking in my flathead and I hear a tick. I’m honestly terrified. This is my first engine build for my own vehicle. Please listen to this video and tell me what you think . I can’t tell if it’s just the lash ticking or a lifter eating the cam. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Only thing that comes to mind is do a compression test.If that cylinder is way different than the others then somethings a miss.Did you use a cam break in lube,or add zinc to the oil? If you did it could just be a looser valve clearance.If you didn't protect the new parts putting them together you might be right about a flat lobe.
My hearing is terrible but it sounded like it was valve noise throughout the whole engine. Have you isolated it to a particular cylinder? Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Ok. So it is definately a cam noise becaus when I pull plug wires the noise stays. It’s an original 8ba cam reground to SU1A specs. Hollow Johnson lifters. I completed the break in and the noise has not gotten any louder or quieter. I bet once I run the motor more the valves will beat in and the noise will lessen Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
The valves will beat in? I'm not sure I understand what that means, but I don't think the motor will quiet down much at all with additional running time.
Flatheads don't use a lot of valve spring pressure compared to more modern engines so the pressure on the cam/lifter face is not as high. That makes me think that your noise is more likely lifter clearances are not correct. I would start by pulling the manifold and rechecking valve lash. If the valves were properly fitted and installed and the lifter lash is set correctly you won't hear a thing when it runs.
With reground hot cams ,I never use adjustables. Too much heavy metal rockin back n forth and the springs can float . I use Isky 185g s and weld the stem ends with hardface Stellite 6 . set and forget and no fancy springs or excessive cam wear .
Were the lifters new or re-ground Johnsons ? I used some re-ground ones, after 500 miles a couple of the adjusting screws ran down. I had to pull the intake, stake the threads, use green Locktite, re-adjust and let it sit overnight. Fixed the problem.
Lincoln zephyr springs, and hollow (light) Johnson’s. Same weight as stock non adjustable Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Mac's Auto in New York sells Johnson "style" lifters. Not real Johnson. Now, if you mean Mac VanPelt, he'd probably sell real Johnson's. If they are Chinese lifters I wouldn't be too sure they'll keep their adjustment. And just pray they don't loose their surfacing and start eating a cam lobe.
I wonder if the wear surface on lifters is case hardened. If it is case hardened and you regrind them you would remove that thin layer of case hardened metal and the lifter would wear quickly. You could have them re - casehardened but is it worth all that? One other thing I found regarding adjustable lifters losing their setting. If you buy a more aggressive cam or get your own cam reground they get the extra lift by grinding the base circle of the lobe smaller. That means your lifter must sink further into the block and you would have to unwind the adjustment several turns more than desired. Then, there won't be enough interference fitting threads left to hold the setting during operation. I think there are quite a few adjustable lifters out there that have been "staked" and locktited to hold their setting. I ended up doing that to 2 of my own lifters that wouldn't hold.
One other thing to note is that every time you adjust a lifter, you weaken the interference of the threads making them more likely to slip. Don't play with them back and forth as you set them....the less you move them the better
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