Quote "Side drafts won't work - they'll collide with the floor and pedal linkage. I'd have to build an updraft and score another Carter BB1 or two, in order to make things appear stock inside. Flowing and synching? No prob! Been a motorcycle mechanic for years, I own two multi-carb British cars and a dual-carb VW. I breathe through multiple carbs!" End quote. Your background eliminates one of the issues with multiple carbs. But the reality of the stovebolt is that the cylinder head design makes two carbs only marginally better (5~8 percent) than a single; and that only if you do everything perfectly. You really need to use 3 smaller carbs and run them simultaneously for any power increase, and again, not a lot. Really easy to LOSE power putting dual carbs on a stovebolt. And I can promise you that you will not like the cost of two additional BB-1 updrafts. Too many folks using them on 'teens and 'twenties cars because they are so far advanced compared to the originals. Supply and demand. Jon.
Right! And this is where the engine swap ideas come in. We get to the point where many flattie fans arrive - I could put a ton of money and time into a powerplant that'll never make as much power as even a modest smallblock anything does. Hell, I could easily get a driveable 200hp out of my ACVW for an eighth the cost! Mostly, I want the challenge of doing something different. Never seen a triple-updraft setup on a Stovebolt before! Should make fabricating a dual exhaust header interesting, too... The practical side to consider: I'd like to be able to drive it to shows and meets, which means it needs to be freeway-friendly. So: more power, an overdrive, front disc brakes, while maintaining a high degree of originality or periodicity. Sent from my SM-G960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
those dietz headlights were also used on early peterbuilts. not that they are common either, but you could add that to your search. cool truck!
Good to know! United Pacific makes/has replacements for them (I have their 7" H2-style headlights in my MG Midget. Nice, inexpensive units!). If I can't straighten out the left one, I'll give those a try. Sent from my SM-G960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Ooh! Very cool! Thanks for the link! Update: Fuel tank is in, and she runs off her own internal supply now. Versus a gas can on the doghouse. Lol Fuel gauge works! Installed a new stovepipe, storm collar, and vent cap to keep water from getting in around the heater. Never had one on it before. Located a NOS ignition switch, and will be installing it today. Next major work will be an American Autowire harness and 12v conversion. Ordered two sheets of 1/8in foam neoprene to reseal all the clearance lights. Those'll get abrasive blasted and painted; the lenses cleaned and replicated as needed. Anyone know who might make an electric direct-drive wiper motor (12v, 2-speed preferably) to replace these Trico vacuum motors? One is seized, and they're mismatched. Sent from my SM-G960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Watched that episode, and did a little more digging into the Dubl-Duti trucks. Seems Chevrolet didn't like Boyertown altering their chassis for a forward-control setup, so that's why there were so few made until after the war! Dodge, IHC, and Ford didn't mind! The Dubl-Duti got started around 1928, based on a standard truck chassis; tall, step-up type body with a choice of rear door types. Sure hope he restores that one to stock or patina'd-stock! Too few around to monkey with! Restored the steering wheel over the holiday. Nothing like waking to the smell of polyester filler and epoxy, and dust all over the kitchen floor! Good thing I'm single, huh? Turns out, the gas tank is a mere 15 gallons. Hm. Gonna need a second one. Found these: United Pacific Classic Peterbilt Headlight Assemblies 30394 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/upd-30394/ Sure looks the part! Stainless, too. I'll order a pair and see if they fit, or can be made to. Definitely like the H4 lamps (have them in my Midget, Bug, C10... Everything else) - never understood the US's obsession with sealed beams... Hope everyone had a great holiday! Happy Yuletide! Sent from my SM-G960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
So I found a GMC 360 inline six in a 1950-ish GMC HC700-series truck. Engine is near complete (missing the fan). Guy wants $400 for it, and the Clark 285V 5-speed behind it. I've seen several 503 videos and overhauls, but not the smaller 308/360. GMC rated it for 155ghp/140hp net, with right around 300lb-ft between 1000 and 2000rpm. Hm. That's about double my Stovebolt's stock 85hp. And the manifolds and ignition are mirror-imaged when compared to the light-duty inlines. I think I'll be doing some measuring, see if it'll fit with minimal modification to the doghouse. Manifolds are already in a better position - lots more room on the right side! And I located a Browne-Lipe 5531 auxiliary trans locally. $600 for it, with the shifter. It's all coming together! This is still just a thought at this point, but I'll probably pick the engine and trans up anyway. Make a neat conversation piece, if nothing else! And the Clark trans would be perfect with the Brownie box, even if it isn't the Dubl-Duti that gets it. So now my thoughts are: Hop up a 261 or the 235 401M GMC V6 that I already have. Detroit 4-53 with the Clark GMC 360 with the Clark Of course, the real deciding factor is whether or not I can get parts for the thing. Anyone know where to look? Sent from my SM-G960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Nope, not a chance. The damn thing is 11" longer than the Stovebolt! Height is close, when you exclude the oil pan, and the frame widths are within an inch of each other, but man... that water pump and crank pulley are looooong! It could work, but I don't want to push the transmission and Brownie back that far, nor add a foot to the doghouse so it makes getting in difficult. Neat idea, but nope. 261, 401M, or Detroit are much better power options. I'll still buy that engine and trans, though - be a neat engine to run on a stand, and that trans would work well behind a Detroit. Hell, $400 for just the trans is worth it! Wonder if I could repower a Farmall M with it? Sent from my SM-G960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Updates! Discovered why so few Boyertown-bodied Dubl-Dutis remain - the roof panels are riveted. And in my case, leak in a few spots, at the seams. They rust from the top down! My thoughts are to -weld- in replacement metal, to permanently seal off any leaks from occurring again. The damage so far is minimal, so I re-sealed everything with silicone for the meantime. Thoughts on the best way to repair it are welcome! Took the spare tire and carrier down, and broke the split rim down to ditch the ancient re-capped Goodyear on it. Think I'm one of a few my age who knows how to do so, and do it safely. Did a lot of them on the farm, and again in the desert (our M-series trailers use Dayton-style 3-piece rims; the dreaded widowmaker types). Much wire wheeling, since it's too big to fit in my abrasive blast cabinet, sanding and painting was done. Took apart the as-installed electric/hot water heater, and found a replacement. Mine's missing a few bits, and pretty bashed around anyway. It's a Mopar model 53 Comfort Master. Replacement came from a '48 DeSoto. Blasted everything, freed up and cleaned the motor. The replacement housing even had a good core in it yet! More cleaning and painting ensued. Ordered two new hubcaps from Jim Carter Parts (I have one GMC one, and one badly rusted), and one new tire, tube and flap. We'll see how it looks in white! More to come. Sent from my SM-G960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
They do some cool cars and trucks. They tend to get a bit into the religion, which is over the edge for me, but to each their own. My pickup has a gas tank added in the bed, but the original is under the seat. I bought 2 low pressure electric fuel pumps and I got this switch off ebay: This is a 2 pole double throw, so you can connect power to one set and the senders from both tanks to the other so you can flip it like the modern trucks do...at least my Ford flat bed has 2 tanks and does that. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Heavy-Duty...le-Double-Throw-6-Term-On-Off-US/392497546769 I bought two of these low pressure fuel pumps, a guy over on Stovebolt has been using one in is '53 Chevy pickup for about 2 years with no trouble. https://www.amazon.com/Autobest-F4027-Externally-Universal-Electric/dp/B00496RE82/ref=sr_1_1 FWIW, I finally got my tags from the State of California. Had to take my pickup to get weighed at a certified scale and get the VIN verified at the DMV. I am only required to have a rear plate as '45/'46 didn't get issued a front plate. Best of all, my pickup weighed in at 3,000 lbs., so 4,000 lbs. total and a commercial year of make plate only costs me $45/year. I pay more than 3x that for a commercial 1998 Tacoma registration.
Pretty much the thought I had, too. Might go with a pair of modern aluminium tanks, too. Dunno yet! It'd be great if I could find a second tank like this one. I'll keep my eyes peeled. More work completed: heater works great, though I have to hotwire it for the meantime. Soon as she has new shoes, I'll order the American Autowire kit (I like their fuse panels and modularity), and install the CS130 alternator. Already modified the generator bracket to accept the alternator. The heater, defroster blower, and electric horn will all be on a 6v circuit, as I don't want to change those out. Cold start! Man, I wish all my stuff started this easy...: Sent from my SM-G960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
One down, four to go... Tires cost $269.22 each (with a tube and flap) after tax. Yeesh. Good thing I don't pay labor, huh? Really impressed with the quality of Jim Carter's repop hubcaps! Need to to a little touch-up, but man does that white paint look good. It'll be even better, once there's a nicely painted fender to tuck it under! Sent from my SM-G960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I have California Split Rims on my tilt-top trailer, it was hard as heck to find someone to replace the tires on it. I got my bias ply tires from simpletire.com about a year ago, during a discount they were about $98/ea w/free shipping. I went with the Deestones, heard good stuff about them. I used Firestone tubes, about $25/ea. I had 8 tires so it added up quickly...about $1k for tires/tubes/liners and $50/ea to get them installed. After watching them remove the old tires I was glad to have paid $50/ea for installation. That was $400 well spent, IMO, they were beating the p!$$ out of those rims to get them off and back on...I didn't see how you got it off, but they used a big effin' tire sledge...the split rims didn't come off easy...
Wish I'd have gotten a deal like that! The tires themselves aren't too bad - $187 each - but the tubes and flaps and tax added up. Summit has free shipping on orders over $100, so there's that much at least. I don't have a tire sledge, actually! I use a gooseneck (looks like a long iron rod with a wide, flat hook on one end), sledgehammer, and two tire irons to break the bead and work the lock ring and outer rim off. Not too bad, but it can take a lot of persuasion and a few choice expletives! I find that wedging the gooseneck between tire and rim, then angling it and using the hammer to 'push' it around the wheel to break the tire loose usually does it. In fact, I just broke down the next wheel today using this method. If you're interested, I'd be happy to video it next time. This one proved to be a bear to get apart. I did the spare first, and it came apart pretty easy. This one had been mounted for 50-some years, with the weight of the truck on it. It was stuck good! But I'm stubborn. Hit it with penetrating oil (Hilco Lube), since I'm not salvaging any rubber part, let it sit, then hammered away again. Third time, got it off! Worked on bead blasting the mirror brackets and some painting between 'sessions'. Also took my angle grinder with a wire wheel to some suspect spots, and discovered more rust to repair. Still not too bad, all things considered. Looks like all of it was the result of a leaky roof. Hit them with some rust encapsulater to hold it off until I can get the metal and welder to repair it. Found some lead filler, too! I'll leave it be, since it's the best way to fix stuff, other than new metal. Finally got around to installing a new hot wire to the ignition switch. No more jumper from the battery to the coil! Will order the wiring harness next month.
Simple Tire has free shipping also, and at the time I didn't have to pay tax, but since most all out of state is charging tax now. Since I bought my tires they went up $42/ea to $149.99. When I bought mine they were $107.99 (I just checked the invoice) and I got 15% discount, so they cost about $92/ea, shipping was included. These are super heavy duty trailer tires, L rated for 3750 lbs each. There are 8 of them on a 12-ton Miller Tilt-Top. They're really stiff, 16 ply. Now they have them listed for $149.99/ea. The tubes were difficult to find, the only choices I could find were Carlisle and Firestone. Most everyone could get the Carlisles at about $15/ea, but a read better reviews on the Firestones I bought from Pete's Tires back east...both are made in China... The Deestones are made in Thailand, FWIW, I thought that was better than China, but not sure. My tires were really old, a few were missing big hunks of rubber exposing the cord. FWIW, nylon bias plys are really stiff and typically will get a flat spot, so start riding rough until they warm up...but radials with steel belts in them will rot on industrial trucks and cars over time when not in use and pop as the belts will rust. That is most likely why the Double Duty has bias ply, what is used on Split Rims. I don't have any of that stuff, just basic stuff to change a tire. The guys that did my trailer were pros and had some specialty tools they made to fit in the slot of the ring to pry it open. Problem as you point out was breaking the bead after it had been set covered in mud for 20+ years, or who know, maybe longer. I bought the trailer from a dairy farm and it hadn't been registered in many years, the inside tires had half the cord exposed...they were not road worthy...it was a chore to get the trailer registered, but it's got a plate for 5 years, I think it's called PTI with the DMV, maybe Permanent Trailer Identification. I'm sure others would like to as well, I thought your method of putting it under the truck with the chains was clever...I've seen the tire cages also, and if you search on YouTube you'll see some radical explosions that show how dangerous it is... But the guys that did mine were a father and son, they didn't use a cage, nothing, but they showed me how to inspect the rings. It's the rings that are the real problem. You need to make certain the rings don't have any cracks in them. I saw you cleaned yours up and painted them, so I imagine you inspected them. The father told me the ring is the cause of the explosions. Once you get into agriculture areas the split rims are more common as they are used on ag equipment. But I can tell you for certain that most nobody will work on split rims in the big cities, at least none of the big tire dealers. To compound the problem, my rims have some nuts welded on them, which is common, it keeps the rims from spinning on the hubs, but virtually no one will work on rims which have anything modified on them either. Just make sure the rings are solid. The tires don't really have a bead, not in the sense that radials do, it's a much smaller bead that presses against the back to keep the ring in place. The tubes actually make the tires more durable than tubeless, IMO. It is why industrial trailers use bias ply. I had a long road getting my '46 Chevy Pickup to start reliably. I just got my title from the State of California last month. I used my tilt-top trailer to haul the pickup to the certified scale to get weighed...it was the maiden voyage for my new tires. Not trying to hijack your thread, but I will add that your engine sure purrs like a kitten...
Hm, the app doesn't do quote editing well. You'll just have to guess at it! She really does run beautifully. If you've followed the thread from the start, and I imagine you at least read it, you'll know the work that's gone into her. It still shocks me how easily she starts, even in sub-freezing weather, and still on 6v! By contrast, my '07 Triumph Rocket III might or might not start under 40 (small battery, huge engine). Regarding the rust - I meant the body! There's a line of rusty spots all around the belt line, evidently from the roof panels leaking. I think I'll weld the new metal in the roof, as opposed to riveted as original... The wheels so far have been great! Surface rust, easily taken care of with the grinder and wire wheel. I throw the lock rings in the abrasive blaster, and check them carefully. I think with this design, the rings could be in several pieces and still not come apart, as the outer rim completely traps them once it's set. But I'll not risk it, thanks. I can't take credit for the chain - that was GM's instructions from way back then. Throwing it under the truck? Well... Figure I can fix the truck, since I'll still be around to do so if it does let go. Sent from my SM-G960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Well, crap. Can't use that wheel - found a 1 1/2" crack in it, right along the split ring channel. Got another one at Jim's ($20), but can't get the $&#@+$+ tire off. Outer rim and split ring were toast - badly rusted - but what I can see of the main part of the wheel looks good. Bit of rust on the backside edge, but nothing I don't think would cause a safety issue. Ring channel looks fine. Clean, surface rust only. Got the mirror brackets partially remounted; waiting on the chrome acorn nuts I ordered from Ace to come in. Outer rim and split ring from the cracked rim are in excellent shape and painted now, after blasting with aluminium oxide. They'll go on the replacement rim from Jim's, if it looks ok. One more new tire and hubcap coming. Sent from my SM-G960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Oh, hell... forgot to post this: One Brown-Lipe 5531 auxiliary transmission! Looks to be in acceptable shape - turns smoothly, still a bit of oil in it, and no water. Little of the soft surface rust one a couple of gears, but seems to wipe right off. Little 'rumbly', so I'll tear it down and check the bearings, and put new seals in. Got a good shifter with it, too. Gear ratios are: Low - 2:1 Direct - duh High - 0.76:1 There's more where this one came from; I spied at least one Spicer 5831, and possibly two more. Sent from my SM-G960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Allister, I'd cut the b!T@# off if you have to. You probably figured out some way of getting it off by now though, I haven't been around here in a while. Now that we have a mandate for Shelter In Place in California, I have time on the computer...
Ugh. Sorry to hear, man. Yeah, I did cut the tire off, only to find the rim was way too badly rusted to be used. So, another trip to Jim's, got another rim (broke it down out there without issue), looked good. Cleaned it up, painted, and installed the new tire without issue. Oh the price we pay to play the game! Sent from my SM-G960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
So, this happened a few weeks ago (see the below pics) - no memory of what happened. I'm told I got spun into the oncoming lanes. No word who's at fault yet. So, two fractured vertebrae, concussion, bleeding on the brain, and a laceration on my scalp requiring 21 staples and 6 sutures. Everyone else had airbags, crumple zones, etc, so they walked away. No seat belts in the '69 Cutlass (named Alice) I was driving - best friend's car. Been borrowing it and fixing it up for him in payment. TH200-4R, did the suspension all around, exhaust and headers, detailed the engine bay, fixed a slew of minor probs... she was a great car. RIP, Alice. The new ride is a '63 Ford Fairlane. And, like with the Cutlass, I'll be fixing it, improving things, and eventually give it to my bestie to replace the Cutlass he's now out of. Insurance is screwing him. So, that's why there's not been any Dubl-Duti updates - I've been unable to work on it! Hopefully this weekend, however. Hope y'all had a better Easter than I did! Sent from my SM-G960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Welp, one more tire mounted and the spare tire carrier is cleaned up and ready for paint. Took a peek at the brake and bearings on that wheel, while I had it off - lots of meat on the linings still, no sign of leaks, and the bearings felt/looked fine, so put it back together. If it ain't broke, don't fix it! It'll last more than long enough to convert to disc brakes and dual-circuit, anyway. 4th tire just arrived, so that'll be this weekend. Started her up, wouldn't idle. Took a few moments to determine the idle jet got plugged. Quick blast of air through the idle mixture port solved the problem. Oh, if it were that easy on new stuff! Sent from my SM-G960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Last tire went on today, so she got driven a little. Much better ride, now, versus the 40+ year old flat-spotted ones! Sent from my SM-G960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Hey man, great truck! I'm looking for a browne auxiliary trans for my 46 Chevy two ton if you come across any more, or if you decide not to use this one, let me know please.
No problem! I believe he has a couple of 5831s out there still (slightly bigger than my 5531), but no tags on them so I can't be sure. One was straight, no parking brake; the other had a disc-type brake on it. He wants $500 for the boxes, and $100 for a shifter to go with. Shoot me a PM if you're interested, and I'll send his info. Sent from my SM-G960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I found mine on FB Marketplace. He had it listed as a "two speed axle shift". He had it listed for over a year with no takers. I had to drive 100 miles and take it out myself, the upside being I got the shifter, linkages, and drivelines as well. I offered him $250 and he tried to get me to take the whole truck. Its a model M-39-1, came out of a '42 Ford one and a half ton. It's in my '53 Chevy now, and works slicker than all get out.
Hey Alister, any update on your truck project, I haven't been around here for a long time looks like neither have you? (at least on this thread) Hope you've recovered completely from your accident.
Holy cow, that looks like a pretty bad wreck. Good thing RIP Alice wasn't RIP Alister! The rust is probably not too bad on the gear, but the synchro teeth look a bit chewed up:
The Jalopy Journal
