Projects rebuilding after the crash

I'm in. My sons college room mate registered me while I was at the drag expo in chicago. It sold out in four minutes. I can already hear the clock ticking. There is never enough time to get ready.

 

We will miss you in BG this year

 

You BG guys need to get to Drag Week in Indy (Sept. 16) to see racer x and others.

Phil

 

Boy I'm glad to see you are doing DW again. Somethin to follow and root for.

 

I appreciate all the support. I'm at the Detroit autorama this weekend. When I get home I will make the car race ready. I figure sometime in april we might travel south to get a few hits on the car.

 

Anyone needing Flitz products? I have a special code to receive 20 percent off all products. I will be posting the code soon.

 

Looks like its going to be shite move in weather. Boo Hoo

 

That's ok its 70 and sunny inside. The weather isn't as bad as they were predicting.

 

You sound just like Broadway Bob
BITD before all the ways we have now to check the weather if it was raining cats and dogs in Chicago the Union Grove timing tower could be under water but when we called Bob always said “ C’mon Up, it’s 75* and sunny here!”
The man was a true promoter. RIP Bob.

 

Having fun at the Detroit autorama. Several hamb members have stopped by to say hi. One couple came all the way from England to see the show. View attachment 4591687

 

Boy,,,that green is awesome under the lights,,,,,looks fantastic !
That is one mean looking ride !

Tommy

 

I seen pics and video the other day when everyone was loading in I seen your car and it looked great sure wish I was there


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Match bash told us about a pizza place in greek town that's located in the old dodge brothers machine shop. We had to check it out. Found the place and had some really good pizza. The bar tender gave us the history of this old mopar building. That's was cool adding something extra to the trip.

 

More guys that follow the thread. View attachment 4592565

 

Hey Brian. Just got the spring issue of Nitro Madness magazine. Very nice write up on your coupe. The car looks fantastic at the show as well.

 

I heard it was shipping this week. I have not seen a copy yet.

 

I got home and a copy was waiting for me on the kitchen table. I hope the picture turned out so it can be read. Ink in nitro madness magazine is a very big deal for me. Enjoy the read.

 

That is very cool!!

 

Congrats on well deserved coverage.

 

Rhe car really looks great under the lights! HRP

 

My first time to the Autorama and I was blown away by it all. And it was great to meet and talk with Brian. His car is even more awesome to see it for real. He was kind enough to take the time to explain a lot of really fascinating things about his car. I had a blast at the show and talking with Brian and seeing his car was a real highlight. Can't wait to see this car run at Norwalk. Thanks Brian!

 

thanks to everyone that stopped by. im always amazed by the number of guys that follow the thread.

 

I posted this on a seperate thread. Flitz metal polish is local to me. They are impressed with my car. They provided the products for my autorama trip. They are now going to provide a 20 percent discount on all orders. Go to flitz.com upon checkout enter code 19312 in the coupon box to receive your discount. There is no limit on quantity.

 

The rods have arrived. Now it's time to put the engine together. As I was going over the parts I started thinking how unique they are to a nitro engine. So I will go over in detail what I use and why. First up rods.
We use aluminum GRP rods. They provide a cushioning effect on the crank. They can handle huge horsepower. I took pics of some details. They are clearanced at the pin to clear the large counter weights of the stroker crank at bdc. The second area clearanced is the big end for the cam. Do to the increased rod angle the rod can hit the exhaust lobe. My block is a standard cam height. The latest technology blocks raise the cam to eliminate this issue. They also use larger diameter cams to eliminate flexing. The third area clearanced is also the big end. A champher is machined to clear the large radius on the crank. The big radius on the rods and mains increases the strength of the crank. The rods use the normal tangs on the bearings. They also use a brass pin to further retain the bearing. The bearings can come in several forms of hardness . They also come narrowed so they don't bind on the radius. I use bearings that are .001 smaller. This helps control the oil pressure as the rods grow do to heat. A rods length can grow .010 at 250 degrees. Prior to torquing down the rods the bolts are measured. The directions provide the rod bolt stretch value. The rods are then torqued to achieve this value. We use arp brand thread lubricant.
Pins. The pins are larger in diameter and thicker. This reduces them getting bent and provides a larger surface on the rod to reduce beating the small end out of round. Spiro locks or clips have no place in these engines. Spacers are used. They can be either magnesium or aluminium. The oil control rings hold them in place. A look at the pistons shows how the pin goes into the oil control ring ⁸area.
Pistons. The pistons are coated with a hard anodizing to prevent scuffing. They are very heavy duty for nitro use. Looking almost like flat tops do to the low 7:1 compression. They have one intake valve relief.
Rings, a nitro car uses a dykes style top ring. The boost pressure gets behind the ring to push it firmly against the cylinder wall. Gap is set at .042 to prevent butting that will trash the cylinder walls. The second ring is a two piece total seal. It's also gapped at .042 for the same reasons. The extreme heat produced causes the rings gap to go away.
On the track there is no problem sealing things up under boost conditions. Street driving with the big ring gaps produces alot of blow by as there is rarely any boost. The oil gets contaminated and the combustion chamber coated in burned oil. The gapless second ring eliminates that problem. Noticeably lower leak down numbers are achieved.
Ring compressor. We use a bore specific tapered ring compressor. This is the way to go. Just center it in the bore and push the piston down the hole. Its fast and wont break rings.
The corono virus wont stop us from putting this engine together. I hope you enjoyed some nitro tech.

 

Good stuff. Great lesson on engines that run on nitro and what they need.

 

Brian,
I see the bore size is reduced to 4.187,,,,are you running 500 cubes ?
The GRP parts are top quality as well,,,,excellent rods .
Very good , clear pics,,,easy to see details,,,,and explanations of what things do and why .
It’s really helpful for people that have never seen this stuff before,,,it gives an insight to what it requires to make a fuel engine live .
By the way,,,,,isn’t it amazing how thick the skirts are on the pistons ?
It kind of reminds you of a super large brake caliper piston,,,machined with ring grooves and a pin bore,,,,very thick everywhere.
At least that is what it always looked like to me .

A fuel Hemi,,,,that is about as powerful as it can get !!!

Tommy

 

Brian, are the rods a fractured rod? The one pic looks like they are for the rod cap

 

Maybe if you put that thing on kill this season you will burn all the Cornelius-13 from the atmosphere?


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They have a machined "wave" interface, they won't move around. but they're not fractured--that only works with powdered metal rods.

 

So interesting, thanks.

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