Hot Rods Gas gauge sending unit screws spinning on 32 Ford fibre glass tank

Bingo!
Personally I’d get a new tank.

 

Not that it probably matters much but that tank looks to me to be more like a poly tank than a glassfibre one. If that were to be the case it could have a bearing on repair techniques?

Chris

 

First off, I want to thank everyone for their input. Second bit of info is I scrap the inside and it's a poly tank. Sorry for the misconception. I'll try some of the suggestions, such as grinding a little and lifting the insert out, or slice dome the side and try to remove it that way. I looked around and these tanks are $300-$400. If I can't fix it, I may install one in the trunk. I have searched here and good info on that installation.

 

Thanks for the update on what you've found. You may want to work at getting the machine screw and then insert out, and the epoxying new inserts in place. The new screws for the sending unit only have to be snugged down, and use just a bit of never seize to prevent them from sticking later.

 

I wouldn't epoxy inserts , try finding some truss head machine screws( they have larger heads) and epoxy those from the inside , now you have studs , then if they have to be turned , if they spin , you've got something to get ahold of ,plus you don't have to worry about inserts coming loose or pulling out ..

 

Well, if your sure that your tank is polypropylene, then fiberglassing in a new flange won't work. Not much will stick to the poly, it can be welded but specialized equipment is required. I would fabricate a 3/8" thick brass ring the size of your sending unit flange. Drill and tap the flange to accept the bolt pattern of the sending unit. In the open spaces I would drill and countersink thru holes to accept stainless flat head screws. Place the flange on the tank and bolt it down using sealant and the countersunk bolts. You can access the countersunk screws thru the hole, I would use Ny-Loc's. It's a little bit of work but will cure your problem.

 

Don't know what it would cost, but if you have a buddy or maybe yourself, TIG up an aluminum tank. I had a friend who built all my tanks for the dragsters we had. Not as expensive as one thinks. Just an idea. Lippy

 

If you cannot get what is left of the screws out no worries. Drill 5 new holes pilot in between the 5 original holes in the sender. Put the sender in the original position, drill through the new holes into the tank. Open up the holes in the tank to suit and Nut Rivet as per my post #28. Then open up the new holes in the sender to suit. You will have course punch 5 new holes in the casket. You need to take the tank off to flush out the crap.

 

The sending unit is hardly a highly stressed part so it doesn't need substantial fasteners imo, but has to seal. I'd consider re-clocking it on the tank, redrilling and using self tapping screws into the poly (appropriate sized holed drilled first). Dome headed screws, probably stainless. Some gas proof gloop to be totally sure of leak free.

Chris

 

Looking at the last two suggestions are the way I'll probably go. I'll go with Happydaze first and if that doesn't work out, I 'll go with brading's suggestion as back up. 1 question as I was looking in Lowes, they have roofing screws w/ neoprene washers, would that work or would gas eat at the neoprene? Thanks again.

 

Soak one in gas and see what happens!

 

Manufacturers seems to go through great efforts to make sure that little fuel sender stays in there no matter what. Accidents crashes fire you know that kind of stuff. Seems to be some quite elaborate locking mechanisms out there as well.
You might wanna rethink using roofing screws

 

Thanks, for the replies. I was just getting input, no roofing screws or neoprene washers.

 

Pull all those fasteners out and start again with a steel ring inside the tank with nuts welded to it.
Use a couple of countersunk pop rivets on the top to hold the ring in place.

To get the ring inside the tank , you trim 2 opposite sides straight. Then you cut to slots opposite each other [in the tank] to drop the ring inside.
Turn the ring almost 90 deg to the slots and bolt it up [then drill locating rivets ]

Here's a rough drawing.
We used this method to mount an "internal surge tank" in fuel cells [because the rules only allow for 1 fuel tank]

edit: when installing the ring, thread a piece of string down one hole then across the ring and up the opposite hole. [If you drop it inside the tank, you will thank me later] The string can be pulled out while the ring is loosely bolted in place

 

Hell if it was mine I'd sit the new seal and sending unit in, then go between the studs that you cut off with some good stainless self tapping screws. Just don't overtighten them. Not like there's pressure in the tank.

 

When you get your new tank, don't overtighten your s**t.
I'm not saying you did it. There could be some previous mouth breather in there before you touched it. They are all loose as a goose because whoever did it didn't stop at the first #?@&*. Things like inserts in plastic have their limits.
I hope your story has a happy ending as you drive off into the sunset, my friend.

It wouldn't hurt to try some super glue to see if it wicks in and holds the inserts. If it doesn't work, you're no worse off then you are now.
???? That assumes the glue holds well enough to get the screw nubs out????

 

You might see how many 'likes' post number 24 received.

Phil

 

Yep , that's the traditional way , 1-800 hotrod and buy a new one ,
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