Technical Header Bolt Hodge Podge

Big tube headers on a SBC. Ugh. So I see they have header bolts now that have an internal hex. Cool. And these are even drilled for lock wires. Double cool. Anyone using 'em?

Only thing better would be if they had a small head, like these 5/16 head.

What else is out there these days?

 

Not all header tubes allow an allen wrench to have clear access like illustrated on package.

 

The ball end allen wrench will allow the access needed.

 

I hear ya. A couple of mine are so obscured by the tube that I have to start them first with the header pulled away from the cylinder head. But those bolts pictured also have a 7/16" head for an open end wrench. I had 3/8" bolt heads on those tight tubes, not sure 7/16" will fit.

I may have to buy a set of each..

 

Mmmm....Spectre...the best brand there is!

3/8" hex heads, BFH applied to tubes that are tight for added wrench and bolt head clearance, special end wrench with the end "bent" around so you can get to the bolt from the other side....these are the tricks I use.

 

My ot V8 S-truck has a blend of regular and hex socket-head bolts in accordance to which kind of access is best facilitated per bolt.

 

G'day, With both our drag cars, lifted trucks, and street cars we have had amazing luck with the ARP stainless header bolts with the 12 point heads. Big block big tube headers and small block big tube headers. I have yet to have trouble using a 12 point combo wrench on them.

I just realized that I finally broke 200 posts. Only took me 11 years.

 

Dinging the tubes really doesn't hurt anything except the visual aspect. There's a Youtube thing out where they hammered on some headers with an engine on the dyno to show results. Headers looked like old crumpled Aluminum foil when done and negligible loss of power.

 

Special Executive for Counter-intelligence, Terrorism, Revenge, and Extortion. I think I saw Mr. Gasket offering the same thing, Never seen the internal and external hex heads before though, neat idea.

Yep, I think it's time to get the hammer out. Spent 1/2 hour today removing the left rear header bolt, 3/8 12 point, so tight against the tube I had to grind the side off a box wrench. Don't know how I got that bastard in last time.

 

Even then it still isn't enough.

 

I much prefer 6 pt to 12 pt on header bolts, so I can use an open end wrench. And that 150 or so degree bent open end wrench..it's a lifesaver on a SBC.

 

Use the 5/16 heads and you will ne ok

 

I like the idea of a lock wire but don't see any 5/16 or 3/8" 6 point heads that are drilled. And it would take me fifty 1/16" drill bits to do it.

 

dang...picked up a set of small block mopar's just yesterday....the heavy ones will have two hard to get to bolts and the light weight ones will be the easy ones.............

 

Stopped by O'Reillys on my way to get a sandwich, surprisingly they had the header bolts with the internal hex, and not even Spectre (though probably came from the same maker I'll bet). What the heck, bought 'em, wanted to get the headers on tonight. Glad I did, I was actually able to get to every one with the ball end. Just snugged 'em up, that ball end looks pretty spindly, tomorrow I'll dog leg an open end as Squirrel suggested and get 'rm tight. No locking means however, the drill jig would work if I wasn't so lazy.

 

I've been using packing gland cap screws from valves that were removed during power plant boiler overhauls. 3/8" coarse 3/4, 7/8, or 1" long. They had either 3/8's or 7/16's hex heads. Took them out of the scrap metal bins. I was never afraid to dent a header and a YouTube showed it never hurt which I really didn't know. I've a few long wrenches that make them tight.
McMaster-Carr sells 12 point in steel and stainless reasonable in my opinion which I've used for intakes but I could see using a ball Allen could help getting them installed.

 

I bought a shorty wrench at a flea market and used my bench grinder to thin it out..open end and closed end.

 

Ditto

 

Been there done that with a wrench. Got a drawer full of these unique/made to fit wrenches.

 

How about just regular old Allen cap screws? I've used them, much easier when space is tight.

 

Torque for 3/8-16 bolts is only 30 lbs ft , over tightening will cause gasket failure just as easily as if they're too loose .....

 

I buy the best gaskets I can...at least according to what I read on the net...bought seal for good gaskets for my 289..haven’t fired the motor yet..but I’m going I don’t hear exhaust leaks..those Falcon engine compartments are no joke...

 

I have had excellent results using hi- temp copper silicone on header gaskets , SBC are notorious for leaking between the siamesed center ports , the silicone has solved that...

 

I've put a slight arc thru the center portion of the siamese region, if things weren't sealing up. To the flange, prior to welding, to be sure.

 

Studs with 3/8's 12 point nuts...

 

12 point bolt, 3/8 head size is the best I've had. If it's a tight fit, I run the bolt in and drive a chisel between the bolt and tube. Doesn't take much and it looks better afterwards instead of beating the hell out of them like I seen a friend of mine do.

 

Recently, I had a go-around for bolts that would work easily on a set of very tight stainless headers and ended up with these ARP bolts with 5/16" twelve point heads. They fit great and are easy to get a wrench on.

 

I'm with Squirrel , BFH and good gasket , heat , retighten...good to go..

 

Got it fired up yesterday. This is my ranch 4x4 btw, no thing of beauty. To say it again, the internal hex with ball drive really made installing a breeze, I was able to ratchet in every one to the point where only a couple of twists with the wrench were needed. I made a mistake not dog legging the wrench a full 90 degrees, still hit the firewall on the back 2.

I used the gaskets that came with the gasket kit, paper on one sided metal the other, slathered in orange silocne. Also flat filed the flanges. We'll see how that does.

Thanks for the replies.