I recently purchased a 1940 mercury eight and started to re wire the car and have no clue what the guy before me did. I could use any help I can get on figuring out how to get it running. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
If you want help you have to tell more. Does the starter work? Is there fuel in the carburetor? Do you have spark? Have you ever had it running?
Well the car was running I got it home and the battery was toasted got a new one and put it back in now it won’t run. I have fuel and starter is strong. I have spark when I pull a plug out and crank it over. I’m waiting on a new starter solenoid. But I’m probably missing something it has a ballast resistor between ignition and coil but I read that if u run 6v u don’t use one. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Did it have a 6 volt battery when you got it? If the starter is strong, why are you replacing the solenoid? Did it have a 6 volt battery in it when you brought it home? You have to have a number of thing for the engine to run; fuel, spark (at the right time), and compression. If you have all this, it should run. Have your cranked it a lot? Could it be badly flooded with fuel. If it is badly flooded it may have washed the oil from the rings. If that's the case you can squirt a little oil in each cylinder to help seal the rings and bring up the compression.
Unless changed it should be positive ground, is it? Are all grounds clean? Are you using the correct 6 volt cables and not the ones from the auto parts store designed for 12 volts? Do you have a wiring diagram? See: http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/...l-pics/Flathead_Electrical_wiring1940merc.jpg Charlie Stephens
And it appears to be a one wire as well so the chances of it being 12 volt seem high. Might explain why there is a resistor in the ignition. Clearer pics and more info would be a big help.
After you do get it started, you'll need to remove the breather block off plate at the back of the intake and replace a good breather there. Whoever put the block off there had no idea how a flathead vents.
I have to change the solenoid when I replaced the wire to the ignition I over tightened the solenoid and I must have broke connection inside. I also changed the battery cables someone else mentioned that they might not be big enough? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
If the starter speed is good, the cables aren't your problem. However, it is correct that 6 volt systems used larger gauge cables than 12 volt systems. In order to turn the engine over the starter needs to produce a certain amount of power. Electrically power is volts times amps. With 6 volts you need twice as much current to produce the same amount of power. The more current you have, the larger gauge wire you need to carry the current.
That fuel pumps not in a good spot either. Electric pumps push better than they pull. It needs to be closer to tank, possibly on frame rail and away from all the heat.
Between the alternator, the electric fuel pump, and a resistor wire for the coil, things are adding up that the system was upgraded to 12 volts. If that was done, the odds of it starting on 6 volts is pretty slim. Now, I'm sure you could probably buy the alternator and the fuel pump in 6 volt versions, but what about the resistor for the coil? I've never seen a 6 volt ignition system that used a resistor. You may have spark at the plugs when the resistor is cold, but I find it pretty hard to believe you still have a good spark once that resistor gets hot. The possibility exists that if you bypass the resistor, that motor may start on the fully charged 6 volt battery, after you put a little oil in each cylinder to get the compression back up. Was there a battery in the car when you bought it? Can you call the previous owner and ask him if the car was converted to 12 volts? If it ran before you installed the battery, and it doesn't run after you installed the battery, the problem must be with the battery instalation. Gene
1940 Ford and Mercs have an ignition resistor on the firewall upper left inside the car under the dash. If running a modern coil, or say a '49-'51 coil that resistor needs to be by-passed. If running a 6 volt coil on 12 volt, then you need that modern resistor. If a 12 volt coil running 12 volt system, then an internal resisted coil doesn't need an additional resistor, a non internal resisted coil does need an external resistor. if you are running 12 volt, set it up neg ground. You may need to reverse the ammeter wires or does it have a voltmeter. Think my '40 Ford has a volt meter but can't recall. It's still 6 volt. It's only been in the family since early '65! Dave
From the pic it shows two wires coming off the neg terminal on the battery. The black with a blue tracer doesn't appear to be attached to anything, is it supposed to be?
What's up with the blue painter's tape at the bottom of the carb? Is there a vac leak or something? Did you pull the distributor cap and check the condition of those parts? Chappy
I was covering the holes until I get plugs. Can you plug the holes or do they need to be open? Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The blue and black neg wire was off I got a new solenoid. It is back to the way it was. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app