Guys I'm Looking For A Diagram Or How To Correctly Wire A 3 Wire Alternator On A 1962 C10 235. Has Original generator currently. Also What Do I Purchase 10si or 12si? Ive Researched other threads but nothing seems to hit on early years. Thank You For The Correct Needed info
Just get the underhood harness from a 63 thru 66 truck and it all plugs in. Or use the 62 harness and wire it up with a alternator regulator . The easiest is to use a GM internal regulator alternator. use the idiot light wire to excite the internal regulator. or get a internal reg alt that has the one wire conversion.
Are you going to make your own wire harness or are you trying to adapt the existing three terminal external regulator to generator harness?
The dash light connects to terminal 1. The stud on the back goes to the battery. Jumper terminal 2 to the stud on the back of the alternator.
This seems to be about right if you can locate the ground side of the idiot dash light. If you can't locate it, then just leave terminal 1 unconnected without the idiot light. The stud on the back goes to the battery terminal on the voltage regulator if you want to keep the regulator mounted and the ammeter working. The regulator's armature & field terminals aren't used anymore. With terminal 1 unconnected and terminal 2 pigtailed to the stud in the back, you'll effectively have a 1-wire alternator setup. Sometimes you might have to blip the motor to get it to start charging on startup. If you ever find the ground end of the idiot light, just connect it to the terminal 1 and you'll have your idiot light back without having to blip the motor on startup Jack E/NJ
I've got the popular ones that work here. https://s173.photobucket.com/user/mr48chev/library/ALTERNATOR WIRING DIAGRAMS?sort=4&page=1 This is how most guys did it in the 70's and 80's if they had decent original wiring. Any of those work. The diode for the first one costs about 2 bucks at a Massey Ferguson dealer.
Old wolf’s suggestion is the easiest but if you want to learn a little about 3 wire alternators look up; MAD Enterprises, Springville, Ca. They have some good information on their website. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
This is the one to do with a 10si from a 73-74 Camaro and make sure the clock position will work for you. The only difference is to run the #2 wire to the battery lug on the back of the alt and cut the white wire at the harness tape. You only need to hook up the #1 (blue) to the brown wire to your warning light and the 10 gauge wire to the power side of the horn relay (to the back of the alt).
@Old wolf, is this the type of harness you were recommending? https://www.classicparts.com/mobile/1963-66-Engine-Harness-V-8-w_-Lights/productinfo/52-126/ Phil
Easy as this.....there are two wires on the plug, run the white one to the acc side of the ign switch, this wire tells the alternator when the power is on and tells the alternator to charge, so....when the key is turned on, power flows TO the alternator, after the engine starts, power then flows back through this wire to the ign switch. If hooked anywhere other than acc, it will power up the system and keep the car running when you shut the key off, this will not happen on the acc position. The red wire on the plug should hook to the power feed side of the fuse panel. This wire tells the alternator how much power the car needs and tells the alternator how much amperage to put out while the car is running. If you loop it to the lug on the alternator, it only senses how much power the battery needs, it'll work but its not the proper way to wire it. The lug supplies all the power the alternator makes, use at least a ten gauge wire on this, eight gauge is preferred, hook it to the battery cable at the starter. I've tried here to simplify this, but it'll work every time, properly, you'll have a clean battery that isn't overcharged and a happy life.
No, that one doesn't have a alternator plug in it. Also the 63-66 still has a external regulator, I believe 1973 was the first year for internal regulated alts.
No that's not it. I just went and took pictures. the harness is the bottom portion of what comes out of the firewall the top part goes to the turn signals. The correct harness has the connections for the regulator headlights and horn in it. The harness for a dash light is different from the one for a guage. The factory harness simply makes it easy. however its not very hard to modify the existing harness to make it work. Many trucks don't have the accessory feature on the ignition switch. I use a light to activate the system. I wired a alternator and regulator on my 55. used a light to activate. Sometimes that light stays on after starting it. A quick rev starts it charging and the light goes out.
IF the OP isn't adding alot of accessories, me thinks his time would be better spent locating a spare generator and voltage regulator - used or rebuilt. With a generator, I got NINE ( maybe 10 ) years out of a cheap Exide battery, a club buddy got 11 years out of a Walmart battrry! I'm sure it's because a gen charges at a slower rate, and is less likely to overcharge. I've seen a lot of alternator systems with moisture on the battery - the acid vaporising from heat from charging. About the only advantage of an alternator is that every parts store has 'em cheap - The last battery I bought was at AutoZone for $140!
previous owner added LED turnsignal lights. an installed a classic car radio system nothing super crazy. I noticed when its at idle the generator light comes on..
Here's what i was told by fifthaveinternetgarage.com remove the larger wire(batt) from regulator an wire it to the small stud on alternator. remove the other two wires an tape off. Using a DA plug connect it to the alternator. one wire(red) goes to the stud on alternator same as the wire that was (batt). The other wire (yellow) goes to either + on coil or ignition switch if accessible or possibly the S terminal on the starter solenoid. this wire also has a diode which allows the engine to shut off . This is based of his alternator wire harness available from them.
[QUOTE= I noticed when its at idle the generator light comes on.. Tipical at times, if the battery is a little discharged. Can't hurt to check the charging voltage - s/b 13.2 volts, at 12-1500 rpm. Voltage regulators can be adjusted - see your Service Manual. Go husle a spare gennie and regulator, your battery will last much longer if you stay with what you have!
just figured a alternator would have more reliable charging. I'm not having a charging issue with my generator other then at ide it will illuminate the dash light. Just like I said fiqure a alternator to be more reliable