Hello I have been cutting and welding last 5-6week with this hot rod project. Its my customers car. I have strong visio, what it looks after next 6-8weeks. Engine is rebuilt, just need to fix heads and put rest parts together (merc 255). Double detent tranny I made ready earlier this winter. Last weeks I have been working with frame, pedals, driveshaft, front end, firewall... 20 cutting disc, 20kg argon (tig).... Still need to made subframe and floor. I make it looks like original, but own design. Front floor plywood, P-51 magnesium seats, cool taillights, aircraft style interior.... Still waiting for some parts Ring and pinion (3.25), headers, waterpumps, progressive linkage, .... More "welding pics" in my website --> in same with my 5w coupe project pics. www.auliz.fi Aulis www.auliz.fi -hot rod showroom
Hello, Thank You. I leave doors like welded. Body has been racing use. There has been holes in cowl sides and rear quarters front part. Maybe stock car racing? seats are P-51 magnesium, dash 1940. Gonna leave very much old patina,... Only shiny thing will be drivers future when he enjoy on the highway.... Aulis Those merc wheels and Nokia 6.50-16" wintertires are mine. He will be use 1935 ford wheels + wide whitewheel tires. Off topic: Nokia was made tires and rubberboots before telephones. We have here city which name is NOKIA. Nokia tires is still going strong, telephone company (company was splitted long time ago) was going down when new MD was come from Microsoft.... Nokia Network is going strong, maybe.....
IMO...make the driver's door work... if with her, she slides across the seat... if with a fellow hellraiser let him climb in.... on the passenger side, an upside down, forged, "trimmed A running board bracket" with an A rumble seat step plate on it so he can just hop in...
Looks like it started life as a 5 Window coupe and was converted to a coupster ( short coupe sail panel) , pretty common in the '50's or to change race car classes
Definitely a 5 window coupe with the top cut off. 1932 Ford roadsters 1 /4 panels flare out above the wheel well bead.
Yes, door panels are cut about 4". No, I do not open doors. I respect old and want to leave car 50s style. If it would be my car, I´d use those Nokia winter tires. Those are cool.... We have too much those "bolt on hot rods and street rods", so its good to get one different Rod on the freeway. Today arrive 3.25:1 ring and pinion. Rearaxle is 1934 V8model. I need to remove mechanical brakes, change R&P etc. Already have shorted driveshaft + driveshaft tube to 1932 dimension. very much things to do, but no stress. 4-6hours day and Im ready my side middle of March.....or not. Aulis
Front brakes (lincoln style + ford drums&hubs) installed. same time changed new bushings and king pins + reamed those. Aulis
Thanks Man ! You know, we have nothing to do here during long long winter .... and suppose You have same there in Ontario Canada?.... Aulis
Smaller tires changed on wheels. Looks better and drop front end 2" lower. "holy shit" on floor. I started to make new subframerails. Aulis
Thanks for those great pictures. I always like to see other 32 projects. It kind of reminds me of mine when I started.
Thank You. Now a days I have less in my garage.... On December sold two of my Deuces to Middle-Sweden. Aulis
Thanks Sirs Interested in to do something "not normal" hot rod work. This car owner asked me many times to built his "nice US find". I told him that I have own project, son, dayjob,...and I never spend my evenings in garage. I like more to sit on sofa and watch from TV for example "the big bang" or other easy entertainment. I know him long time and finally I give him "yes" answer. If somebody say me, please, built me street rod or something "bolt on style" like mostly cars are, Im not interested in. Still have OK health (54y old) and possible to enjoy and built some hot rods.... but not too much, then its not so fun anymore. Sundays not normally go in to the garage, but now 7.00 PM I go there for three hours as long as Oskar son is waked up. After that we go skate and play "father-son" -ice-hockey or something more fun than old rusted steel welding.... No, snow, no real winter, but good that we have ice-hockey halls for public use too. Next weekend need to drive down to Norrköping (sweden) Drag racing swapmeet. There is nothing special what I need, but everybody is there sell, buy or just talk shit and have fun. Aulis
Same time with Hot Rod project Im building 284cid engine to South Finland. Finally last week I bored it + honed with 600stones + grinded deck surfaces. Earlier I was keep block in citric acid and increase (infuse) 3cm Moroso block filler in to both water pockets LH+RH. Mike Hermann from H&H Flatheads once again helped me and sold me good stuff (stroke kit ready balanced, heads, intake, winfield su1 style cam, lifters, big proflo valves,.....). Next need to enlarge IN runners for 1.6 valves, fix and open EX runners and of course made new valveseat jobs.... Clive from Stromberg (UK) send last week some carbs and linkage sets to this engine and this project car 8ba engine.
I'm interested why you filled water pockets with Morrison block sealant.... Educate me please.THANKS.
I have done like that all of my Big flathead engines. No problems, even have dyno 300hp out.... (McCulloch supercharged 302cid, Italmeccanica supercharged 284cid) Flathead engines waterpockets are very deep and You do not need that "waterpocket bottom area". Moroso "hardblock" filler makes engine harder. I have used long time that sement in my race engines, when everybody was use normal chevy sb and bb cylinderblocks. Now a days I have better aftermarket Dart block. I have never used aftermarket steel maincaps. I belive those original Ford caps are good quality if You are sure that You have right mainbearing clearance. Flathead waterpocket bottoms are very deep and sharp. Not good, but if You fill those --> block is very much better, if high compression, higher Rpm..... One very important thing is to use good lightweight forged pistons with thin pistorings. One of my engines piston rings height is 1mm, another 1/16" (1,587mm). If You use those thin (1mm - 1,587mm) rings, You hone cylinders using 600-700 stones and we know that pressure / 1mm2 (square mm) is bigger than original rings = less leakdown. More like race engine rings are used long lon time. And You have also one very good thing. Thin pistonrings = less friction = less overheat problem. Many old man says me, its not thrue, but they have their old manners and heating problems with their 85hp - 110hp engines. I have much much more power and no need any fan....... (except when very hot weather and big trafic jam...) Sorry my english, hope You undertand my point. Aulis
Awesome build, your English is good if you guys didn’t catch it he’s not filling the entire water passage. I think he’s saying that there is a pocket in the water passage and that is what he’s filling. I would imagine water would go in there, be turbulent and stay there for longer than filling the pocket and keeping the flow smooth and moving with the benefit of what would assume is a slightly stronger block with that space filled.
Thanks Tim. Bottom of water pockets (LH+RH) are very sharp and they locatedvery low (lower than waterpump lowest bolt). You do not need that bottom area. Its better to fill it using Cylinderblock sement. Filled area is only approx. one liter per size. Flathead has only three mainbearings. That´s why need to do all extra: Strength block, good internal balancing, lightweight stuff, all bearings etc. in tolenrances,... One problem is flywheel. OK, You need that superheavy flywheel, if You have only 85hp and heavy car, You need that flywheel weight for torque. If You have big flathead +280cid etc., High compression, good cam, good flow runners,... You do not need that torque what flywheel gives You. Engine´s hp is doubled, tripled or more. Torque is also raised. I use only Alum. flywheels and 9" clutch. Lightweight clutch and flywheel saves Your enginebearings and cylinder block. Maingirdle would be good choise. Big job to do it and grind it straight after cutting and welding... Aulis
Aulis, you explained that very well. Is this for high horsepower engines only or mild modified stockers?
The Jalopy Journal
