How do you overcome the factory Ford swedge, and remove the lug stud on 40 Ford front drums? I inherited two brake drums today that are .100 thousands oversize. I have some .020 drums that I would like to install on the hubs, but so far have been unable to remove the studs so I can get the drum off. I have tried pressing on the studs, with the hub backed up so the pressing effort is only on the stud, but so far they don't move. And, why do we need to re-swedge these assuming I can replace the drums. The drum locates on the hub. Why does it need to be swedged to the hub?? Thanks guys...
5/8" hole saw over stud to remove the swedge. Original studs didn't have serrations on the shank, which is why they were swedged. Todays aftermarket wheel studs have serrated shanks that can be pressed into the hub, lluminating the need for the swedge, unless of course you replace them with original type. Lots of good info on this with a search on the Ford Barn.
Thanks! I went to the home supply store this morning and bought a 5/8 hole saw. I set the hub and drum assembly up in a drill press, and touched the swedge with the saw. I touched all 5 studs, and the hub and drum fell apart. Thanks for your help.
Anyone swaging lug studs anymore?! https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/index.php?threads/Anyone-swaging-lug-studs-anymore?!.1181403/ Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Currently dealing with this myself, let me know what you find on the install side of things Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Pete, my car is still in mock up but I intend to use studs with out swedging them. Almost any car out there has a slip on drum, and is held flat against the hub by the wheel. There is an option to ream the stud holes to size and use modern studs with the serrated end. I suspect that is what I'll do. C&G Ford parts shows those kind of studs in stock for $3.95 ea. I'm sure we can find a suitable size in the Dorman drawer for 75 cents...
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...-studs-in-40-ford-hubs.1128114/#post-12806560 That was my recent experience installing new studs.
My issue is I have 46-48 drums with the hubs outside of the drums, This is holding up my project Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Pete, I can't see how the flange on the outside or inside matters. It's all dimensional. Personally I would try to use our stock holes, and modify the diameter of the stud to have a slight press fit. A touch of Locktite, and a flat ground on the round head will also help. It will be fine. Good luck
and remember boys and girls, any time you replace studs, whether pressed in or hammered in, check your lug nuts several times once you are on the road again. 50 miles, again at 100. loose wheels can ruin your day
I use this Diamond hole saw from lows on my 40 drums ,all 20 studs. I then used a air hammer to knock out , I used a modern replacement stud from Dorman ( cannot remember part number )needed to cut 1/8-1/4 of the flange off the head one side to clear hub taper , them press studs back in
Getting them out isn’t the hard part, it’s finding the replacement Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
If you have the style hub that is flat on the drum side; locate a new 5 on 5-1/2" pattern on the hub flange between the existing stud holes, drill and tap 1/2-20, and use GR8 tap bolts for studs.
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