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Technical 63 Falcon Sprint t5 trans- how to

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Fisher400, Jan 27, 2020.

  1. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 180

    Fisher400
    Member
    from East coast

    Ok, concerns about the strength of the s10 gears is also what I read too.


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  2. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,317

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yes, and no.

    Only the S10 T5 made in 1993, and after has the Ford pattern.

    Those are World Class T5s, like the V8 units, but it has a not V8 appropriate 4.03:1 first gear, and an electronic speedometer drive.

    All S10 T5s prior to that had the GM pattern, are Non World Class, and had either a 4.03:1 first gear, or a 3.76:1 first gear.

    Both are low for a V8, but one is worse.
     
  3. NewGuyOldFord
    Joined: Jan 17, 2011
    Posts: 596

    NewGuyOldFord
    Member

    Thanks for the clarification Gimpyshotrods. Your input is much appreciated.
     
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  4. Mike51Merc
    Joined: Dec 5, 2008
    Posts: 3,855

    Mike51Merc
    Member

    If you keep your current bellhousing, your clutch connection and pressure plate can stay the same. Only the friction plate will change.
    As for the S10 trans, my understanding is that the input shaft has to be cut down because it's too long.
    The "weakness" of the S10 gears is because most of them have a 4:03 first gear. Transmissions are essentially torque multiplication devises, the lower the gear, the more the torque is multiplied. The ultra low first gear ratio means that the trans (probably the cases) get a lower torque rating because a high torque motor can potentially stress and break the cases.

    I'm no expert, but I believe that (with some limitation) gearsets, input shafts, main shafts, and counter shafts can be swapped into any case to make what you want. My T5 is a hodge-podge of parts that was put together by a trans guy I know. I have a Ford box, AMC tailshaft housing, a GM mainshaft (with 27 spline output), Ford input shaft (with 10 splines for clutch). IMG_1051.JPG
     
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  5. Beanscoot
    Joined: May 14, 2008
    Posts: 3,075

    Beanscoot
    Member

    What was the AMC? All I can think of is 4WD.
     
  6. Mike51Merc
    Joined: Dec 5, 2008
    Posts: 3,855

    Mike51Merc
    Member

    1980s AMC Concord, RWD, probably the 4 cylinder model. Same dimensions as the S10 tail, without the inverted shark fin. It's got a GM speedometer port, and uses a GM size shifter.
     
  7. Beanscoot
    Joined: May 14, 2008
    Posts: 3,075

    Beanscoot
    Member

    Thanks. I had no idea AMC cars survived into the era of five speed transmissions. That must have been a rare option, in a scarce car.
     
  8. Mike51Merc
    Joined: Dec 5, 2008
    Posts: 3,855

    Mike51Merc
    Member

    You're welcome. As a former owner of an inherited 1982 Concord, I had no idea how AMC cars survived at all. ;)
     
  9. Beanscoot
    Joined: May 14, 2008
    Posts: 3,075

    Beanscoot
    Member

    Is the tailshaft from your old AMC? That would be kind of neat to incorporate bits from earlier drivers.

    And what is the "Shark fin"?
     
  10. Mike51Merc
    Joined: Dec 5, 2008
    Posts: 3,855

    Mike51Merc
    Member

    Just a coincidence.
    Take an S-10 T5 and turn it upside down to see the shark fin.
    [​IMG]
     
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  11. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 180

    Fisher400
    Member
    from East coast

    Spoke to modern driveline and they were very helpful. The guy there mentioned I could use my existing bell and just buy his 3 speed t5 adapter. He highly recommended the mustang trans but surprised me by saying I should avoid the s10 tail piece as it puts the shifter too far front in the Falcon. He said he used to do it this way years ago but now they do conversions by just putting in the mustang as is and it would get it back in a near stock 4 speed location as I have no bench seat to clear. This was the first I was hearing of this suggestion and thought I would mention it.

    Thanks for all the great posts and information. I am reading all of it, just taking my time to digest and educate myself. T5s are a new area for me and I don’t want to be hasty with purchases/ plans before I fully understand. Your input is excellent and the H.A.M.B. as a forum. Glad I found it.


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  12. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 180

    Fisher400
    Member
    from East coast

    Mike- out of curiosity, where does your shifter come up with the tailpiece you have? Do you have a bench or bucket/ console like my sprint?

    Also, I see you are in the poconos, I am in Reading Pa. small world!


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  13. Mike51Merc
    Joined: Dec 5, 2008
    Posts: 3,855

    Mike51Merc
    Member

    If you use the Mustang T5, you'll have to cut out the arched brace under your floor between the seats. Of course, you could compensate by fabricating a replacement, but that seems like a lot of work. Here's a pic of the location. Yes, I've been down 222 quite a few times.

    IMG_1624.JPG
     
  14. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 180

    Fisher400
    Member
    from East coast

    Okay, great to see it in the car. That position would work for me. I don’t want to get into cutting out the brace and fabricating something. Going more for a bolt on swap with the least amount of cutting as possible. Thanks!


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  15. Mike51Merc
    Joined: Dec 5, 2008
    Posts: 3,855

    Mike51Merc
    Member

    Remember to get the automatic transmission carpeting without the bump-out on the left side.
    Also, be aware that the location is a bit forward so you'll need to get a fairly long curved shifter (like the OEM shifter is curved). I used the OEM American Motors shifter and bent it into shape.
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2020
  16. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 180

    Fisher400
    Member
    from East coast

    Great thanks. Those are good to remember. Speaking of the shifter, I have a 92 mustang 5.0 WC trans that I found and then I have the tail shaft from the s10 already and that is a non electronic gear driven s10. The guys a modern Driveline have a repo tail shaft that utilizes the mustang shifter and has the mustang speedo but moves it forward to a s10 location. Neat idea but not for $650 when I already have a non electronic s10. Does anyone make a speedo adapter for an early s10 speedo?
     
  17. Mike51Merc
    Joined: Dec 5, 2008
    Posts: 3,855

    Mike51Merc
    Member

    I believe Modern Driveline has a Ford-to-Chevy speedo cable. If not them, then some other vendors likely have them. I think I paid around $25.

    You can use the Chevy shifter mount. The only difference from Ford is the size of the mounting plate, and you may want to look into an aftermarket shifter with a positive-stop system as the stock T5 shifters are know to have problems anyway.

    All you need to do now is figure out how to swap the tailshaft housing. There’s some info on the net about it.
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2020
  18. Johnboy34
    Joined: Jul 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,589

    Johnboy34
    Member
    from Seattle,Wa

    Last edited: Feb 18, 2020
  19. Mike51Merc
    Joined: Dec 5, 2008
    Posts: 3,855

    Mike51Merc
    Member

    Another small detail, the S10 speedometer port is located right where your floor support arch is (the arch that your trans crossmember bolts to). You'll need a 90 degree adapter (which may be a tight fit), or you can do what I did and drill 2 holes in the arch and route the speedometer cable through the inside of the arch.
     
  20. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 180

    Fisher400
    Member
    from East coast

    Ok, great advice on all of these topics. I am ok with drilling a few small holes for a speedo cable! Will keep researching and probably hit up Kato king about the speedo gears and what he has. Thanks for the tip.

    Picking up the WC trans tomorrow and then will start pulling the parts together for the swap. My wife keeps reminding me that this car supposedly needed “nothing”... lol


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  21. Mike51Merc
    Joined: Dec 5, 2008
    Posts: 3,855

    Mike51Merc
    Member

    Um, the holes need to be big enough to fit the drive head on the cable thru. Figure about 3/4" or 5/8", and remember that you need to run the speedo cable in a wide arc, no short turns or you'll bind the cable. Basically enter the cross-support under the driver's seat and snake thru to exit in the arch. On mine, I also had to shave the sleeve that the trans mount bolt goes through to get the cable to line up vertically with the trans. Also, remember that none of this should be done until the trans is mocked up in place, as your final location may vary.

    As far as I know, inside the trans the speedo drive gear will need to be relocated on the mainshaft. There are a bunch of internet threads on the subject, so start yer Googling early and often.

    Sorry can't help with Mrs. Fisher400, I got problems of my own. My wife has a "matched spending" policy.
     
  22. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 180

    Fisher400
    Member
    from East coast

    It’s been awhile but wanted to provide a quick update to this project. Have all of my parts for the t5 conversion. Got distracted with other items on the car but Went with a 93 mustang gt wc trans. Keeping the stang tail and modifying a 64 mustang shifter for an org. appearance. Because I have the buckets/console there is no issue being set back. Modified the bucket seat rails so they are back 2” too (I am tall). The engine bay was redone, new break lines, rebuilding the 260. Stock specs. Re painted the red dash/doors and the interior will be a mix of old and some repo interior parts. The car was in a barn since 1989-2019. Not a show car but doesn’t look too bad! Should have the engine back soon and I will be ready for installing the t5. Hopefully get a maiden voyage in before it snows!
     

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  23. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 180

    Fisher400
    Member
    from East coast

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  24. I think you will be very pleased with the results. Have you got your rear gear ratio picked out yet?
     
  25. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 180

    Fisher400
    Member
    from East coast

    Thanks, I am planning to see how the stock gears are and then go from there. If I remember correctly, the rears is 3.25 as this was the 2 speed automatic model originally. Pictures of the freshly painted engine too: IMG_1094.JPG IMG_1092.JPG IMG_1093.JPG


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  26. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 180

    Fisher400
    Member
    from East coast

    IMG_1163.JPG IMG_1164.JPG 62656757739__0DFBE725-79F8-4E5D-961F-2EF744A4C3FD.JPG 62656760205__46CA76D6-7D87-46B9-84C4-0C1EF151C3BC.JPG In today. MDL set up is the way to go. Everything they provided was top quality. Put the engine and trans in one shot. Next is to start making the transmission connection.


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  27. Johnboy34
    Joined: Jul 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,589

    Johnboy34
    Member
    from Seattle,Wa

    Great progress! Looking good. Love those 63 1/2 Sprints, and a convert to boot!
    That'll be fun!!

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  28. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 180

    Fisher400
    Member
    from East coast

    Thanks, longer than planned process. Lots of , “ while I am in here” things that were done but will make the car a fun and reliable driver.


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  29. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 180

    Fisher400
    Member
    from East coast

    62656757739__0DFBE725-79F8-4E5D-961F-2EF744A4C3FD.JPG IMG_1202.JPG IMG_1203.JPG Putting on all of the parts to the engine. Everything is bolted down and permanently installed. Trans is in place and the shifter is in a great location. I have a 64.5 mustang 4speed handle and round boot. Working on finalizing my driveshaft at this point....


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  30. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 180

    Fisher400
    Member
    from East coast

    IMG_1266.JPG Doors and hood back on. Thanks to MikeMerc for suggesting to get all the weight back on the car before measuring the driveshaft for final length. Putting the sheet metal back on lowered the front end considerably and will affect the final length of the driveshaft. Engine is pretty much there... one question on the distributor if anyone knows... so I have a 63 date code distributor and a 1964 2100 carburetor. I assume the distributor is original. The carb is 64 Fairlane/mustang according to the code. Probably donated during the trans swap in the 1970’s. The vacuum advance is the threaded type and barely holds a vacuum. Drops down rather quick using my vacuum pump... also has a bunch of washers stacked inside lol. Not a good sign. I cannot find the correct replacement anywhere. It appears 1965 onwards are easy to find and are adjustable but nothing for 63-64 2v 260. From what I read the advances are rather specific...any experience on an early Fairlane or 64.5 mustang vacuum advance?


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