Technical Any advice on how to fix this?

When finished with the repair-install a SERPENTINE PULLEY SYSTEM on your motor:;;((((/-“—-Excuse me —ENGINE so the focus will be on that instead!!!!


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Hmm, the frame is what, 11 gauge? .125? Depending on the skills of the OP with a hand held grinder it might be gouged mess removing the brackets.. ..But maybe the OP is skilled so ignore my commnet...

 

I think you'll be fine grinding the welds on that flange plate off and filling the hole with a plug.

...or just taking a holesaw to it to save some weight

Seriously though, you can get an 11ga frame plug kit from Speedway (link).

 

If it was my car I would just leave it alone and forget about it. But I’m lazy like that.

 

One thing I forgot to say about the cut off wheel. I prefer using a medium size electric angle grinder with a 6" wheel. This gives you some ability to flex the wheel slightly as you grind after the plate is removed. It also allows you to use the edge of the wheel to slice thru the weld. parallel to the frame. The downside is that you can't use a wheel guard to protect your eyes, so you will need goggles or a face shield. I have found that I can control what I'm doing much better with this wheel. May have to make a small adapter to get the center hole to fit your grinder. If you use it on a large grinder it makes it a little more difficult to finese the cut because you are fighting the weight of the grinder as your arms tire.

Someone mentioned that the rivits might be just phony bumps instead of real rivits. Just look at the inside of the frame rail to verify if they go all the way thru the frame.

Here are the wheels I use and have had good luck with. I bought mine on Ebay. Bought 100 cost about $1 ea.

 

I appreciate the info .Thank you sounds like great advice

 

Thank you for the reply's The rivets are real I know how to use a cutoff wheel and grinder. I just a little worried because it is the side profile of the frame. I'm probably just over thinking it.

 

Trace the welds with a cutoff wheel, hope that the guy that did them didnt achive the best penetration. then get out your chisel and bfh, once scab is removed grinder/flap wheel smooth and go

 

I suggest you weld a big nut over the cut-off tie rod end....and just tell folks it's your Frame Width Adjuster

 

I would just grind it and knock it off as necessary. If the holes were drilled nicely I might not even try to fill them in. Just another story the car has to tell.

 

I agree your over thinking it. the 32 box was mounted thru the frame just below the square plate I just welded a plug into the large hole and welded up the small ones. No one could ever see this so called patch unless they stripped the frame.

 

What in Sam Hill has happen to the HAMB!!! Pete

 

Looks like a lot of guys got cut off their hot rod fund so they can buy valentines , and are now very grumpy!

 

all these guys like it when someone else works too hard. grind off the welds and chisel off that fish plate? nah, cut out the whole square around it. youll hafta do something about that sleeve , but thats easily handled via torch , step drill , what have you. either way , your covering a hole or multiples when done. work smarter , not harder. if your welding and grinding work are up to par ,either way will look good or look bad.

 

Sorry, but you're wrong.

Let me ask you this.

Say you have a bullet hole in the door of a '32 "whatever".

Patch the hole, or replace the door?

If you reply "it's not the same thing"..., yes it it. Even cutting the whole section out of the side of the frame that is like the OP has shown, and welding in a new one, there would be nothing structurally compromised in the frame.

 

like this !!
I have welded a half frame rail on driver side from steering box hole forward ,"A" ( missing rail). Most As & 32 frames brake crack there ,from original box, weak Area on a 32 Ford, drill hoes @ end of crack ,V it ,weld back up.

 

Grind the weld and they will fall on the floor, then fill the hole.

 

Agree with cutoff wheel. I'd avoid hammer and chisel until most if not all weld is removed, 32 frame rails look crappy dented up and you might just make more work for yourself.

 

Good god ya would think this was a patch on the Golden Gate Bridge.

Grind the welds off with something gentle and fix whatever carnage is under it.

 

Thats awesome. lol

 

I miss the old HAMB.

 

I’ll tell you what,,,
Bring it here and we’ll fix it up nice as can be, then we tell RPJ we changed the whole rail. Hell we can tell him we changed the whole frame. Maybe send him the bill too.

 

Check will be in the mail Skippy.

 

This should have been finished by now! Maybe we should debate it another week? Highly complex repair!

 

Would you drive across a highway bridge that has a large section( say 3ft. by 2ft.) cut out and replaced? If you drive on I75 through Ohio you have. Many other states also do it. I know because I' be done those repairs.
I would be no more afraid of a frame I repaired that way. I'd tell the next owner and ask him to find it.

 

They welded portions of the Big Mackinaw bridge together and that seems just fine!

 

Should be about rusted off by now....

 

I think the frame is junk! Should be crushed and given to the scrap pickers for free. It will never be right! It is obviously in a high stress area and any repair will cause it to break violently in half at the most inopportune time. NOT!

 

You guys might be shocked to find out how often big truck frames are cut and welded back together. They haul lots of weight as well. As long as it’s done properly, strength will not be an issue.


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Plug weld holes, grind, finish, paint.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/?p=41204
Note Ed's frame holes in Mysterion,
The web portion(s) not stressed in same manner as the top & btm flanges. (Open up, to see images. Quite a series)