Looking to do more traditional tie rod/drag links on new project. From what I hear the repro Ford parts are either junky or take a lot of effort to get right. Cory Taubert was making up some nice original sets...don’t know if he still is. Waldens has some really nice original-styled ends that have a leather grease seal but are very expensive. Any other options? Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
If we are talking the model A type that can be rebuilt theres still lots of rods at swap meets to be had,and rebuilt if its needed.I like Henrys steel more than the stuff the Chinese make.
Yeah, I can't imagine original ends are hard to find. Plenty to sort through and cherry pick the best of them. But, be aware the original rods are thin tubing with plugs in the ends, not solid bar. Not good to shorten these if using on a dropped (narrower) axle. Better to get a repro rod of thicker stuff. They aren't expensive.
Bill: I used original 32/34 tie rod ends on my 32 pickup not only on the tie rod and drag link but on the ends of the bones using Cory's weld in bungs. Everything turned out great and it drives fine with the 37 Hudson box. I had new solid rods made for the tie rod and drag link by a local machine shop. I used the bronze rebuild kits offered by Macs. Last year I advertised for more 32/34 ends on the HAMB and Ford Barn and came with 3 left and 3 right hand ends in about 3 weeks, all but one was NOS. I had them bead blasted and they are awaiting a future project. I also managed to find enough original metal cups and rubber seals to cover everything. I did buy a few that the sellers thought were 32/34 but were model A's. I just got 6 of the Walden ends for a project yet to be determined, they are very nice.
I powder coated the entire front suspension on my '40......got polished stainless rod ends from the Deuce Factory many moons ago.......very nice quality, except for the "rubber" seals. They lasted only a couple of years before deteriorating.
Does anyone have any pics of the Walden units actually installed in a chassis? It’s one thing to look at pics of the parts, which I have done repeatedly, but another to see them in context with the surrounding environment. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Go to Walden's website and there are several short videos showing the ends on some chassis and on a deuce 2 door. I checked them against the stock 32/34 ends on my truck and they were the same dimensions except that they have male external threads and the originals have internal female threads. They also make an early style end with the pin moved closer to the threaded end that will replace a standard Ford style tie rod end on hairpins and bones. I've tried it on on my car and it was a direct replacement. One thing about their stock style early tie rod ends they will require custom length threaded tubes.
The current project I'm working on has the special rod ends from Haze City (now produced by Walden) on the split wishbones. I'll be using original Ford parts on the tie rod and drag link. Can you tell me the difference between Model A and 32-34 rod ends? Isn't it only the location of the grease zerk?
The only difference is that model A used pressed-in zerks and 32-4 use 1/8 pipe threaded zerks. I have found several of each. Only difference that I can see. The tie rods themselves are different but the ends are basically the same. I’ve drilled out the pressed in zerks and tapped the holes. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
hotrodart...where did you locate replacement bushings? Mine disintegrated shortly after I replaced them from The Deuce Co.
I think you will be happy with the bushings from Pete & Jake's. They are a high quality urethane and are designed to last a long time. I just sent a customer replacement bushings from P&J's for a chassis I built for him 12 years ago that had about 40,000 miles on it.
I tool them off a set of rod ends I had sitting on the shelf.....Ford-made NOS stuff..... EDIT.....they are dust covers, not bushings.....
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