Why bother fixing that old engine buy a new one and while your at it why bother fixing that old truck buy a new one Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
If you can’t afford to fix an engine maybe you should find another hobby Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
If you hone the cylinders to see how round they are and to attempt to get them round again, you need to use this type of hone and a 1/2 inch drill. This one is $129 on Amazon. This one will only leave a cylinder in the same shape it was already in and put a crosshatch on it because it follows the existing contour rather than cut a new straight contour.
That is a Lisle 15000 cylinder hone. Does a fantastic job, just used one last week to salvage an ISB Cummins in a yard dog spotting tractor that the owner did not want to spend 30,000 on a reman engine. That hone does a fantastic job. Use some ATF and go at it! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I bored a 3208 cat engine 30 over with one of those, that was 10 years ago and it is still running Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
This hobby can be as cheep or a expensive as you want it to be. To date ive only got about a $1000 in the 55 in my avatar. and I have a 400 small block with a 350 crank that has new keith black pistons and some other high dollar parts cost a lot more that my entire 55.
Only one pic scared me a little,,,and it might not be as bad as it looks . I definitely think a .030 over would clean it up ok. But,,it is worth a try to see how a hone would make it look. I have always tried to salvage anything that I can. Especially if it is just a driver . Back in the old days,,,they used to have a set of rings that were really good at this. They were called Hone a matics,,,,worked really good at sealing cylinders. After about 500-1000 miles,,,you could feel the rings seat,,,,feel it seat of your pants. Worked good too. Tommy
When I was in charge of the shop at the federal law enforcement training center. We had about 300 of the old box Caprices. We used rebuilt engines in them when they blew. It was faster and more cost effective to spend a day changing out a long block than tearing one down and sending out for machine work. We ran quite a few that were .080 over and ran the crap out of them with out any overheating issues. I had never heard of .080 over 350's until I started working there. I have run plenty of .060 over 350 blocks in dirt track applications. Like the oil companies say, drill baby drill. Bore it out and quit worrying about it.
I agree with you completely,you can rebuild a 350 pretty cheap and you don’t need a machine shop to do it , hone it out through a cheap set of rings and bearings in it and if you want a set of cam bearings and your good to go. I’m always surprised at how many people start their project with a new set of tires and rims that use up a lot of their budget long before they need them Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I never liked a sleeved block if it was cracked or had pinholes into the water jacket.. That sleeve expands and contracts at a different rate than the cast iron block. and you eventually start getting water in the oil. the factory wet and dry sleeves used in diesels and tractors are a whole different thing than a pressed in repair sleeve.
I have run sleeved blocks for years. Properly installed there are no issues. A good machinist can sleeve a block that will last. I am building my stroker motor with one cylinder sleeved.
I have a 396 block that had been sleeved and ran before I got it in 1978, and I had it bored .060 over and ran it for years....still working fine. The sleeve is cast iron, so it expands and contracts at the same rate as the cast iron block.
The Jalopy Journal
