I've done this before with F1 brakes on 37-41 spindles without any problems. This was over 10 years ago on another car. Well now Im putting 53-56 F100 front drum brakes on my 32 coupe. At first, I had them installed on the wrong side and was able to bleed them fine. the wheel cylinders were level. only problem was the brake hoses were facing forward. I don't think that's right. I don't believe I've ever seen a car with the brake hoses facing toward the front. When I put the right backing plates on the right side and the left backing plates on the left side the wheel cylinders were tilted back(not level). Im unable to bleed the brakes, I think there's air trapped in the wheel cylinders now. Are the wheel cylinders supposed to be tilted back??? one backing plated is stamped with a 6 digit number then R. I assume this means right. The other the number is obscured. Can anyone clear this up for me?
my cylinders are level on 53-56. You can drill new holes to make the backing plate level. R is passenger side. My spindles are 31. I dont know about 32
This is the tutorial the late Deuce Roadster posted on how it is done, I'm, afraid photo bucket has screwed up all the photo's but the information is there. HRP https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...es-on-37-to-48-ford-spindles.5877/#post-85571
Are you using 1932 spindles? The backing plate pattern is a bit smaller,and you have to weld the backing plate holes up,and redrill for your pattern.I have seen guys file,and slot the holes on the spindle to get the holes to line up,but welding the backing plate would seem safer.Is there a chance someone already did this,and didn't clock the cylinders correctly leaving you with trapped air? In the short term you could lift the back end up,and move the trapped air to the bleeder,but it would be nice to be able to bleed normally.
Ill try to post some tomarrow . The small brake shoe(primary) is toward the front. The backing plates have to be on the correct side as far as I can see.
BTW I did try jacking the back end up, but I cant really get it high enough to make the cylinders level enough to bleed them.
What is your castor set at? If it was set heavy it could tilt the entire spindle back causing the wheel cylinders to be angled.
You can switch the wheel cylinders/shoes/hardware without switching backing plates. Just make sure the self adjusters (if you’re using them) are installed properly and the manual adjustment window aligns with the star wheel. I’d think you’d have to have some serious angle to keep them from bleeding properly
Here is a picture of mine on my 39. That looks like a bit quite of angle, They do have a slight bit of angle from the factory. I think I might take them off and swap sides back the way they were. If you had to you could drop the front end down to bleed it. pain in the ass but it will work.
The only thing I can figure is the last owner didn't want to grind the clearance on the top of the spindles so he welded the holes in the backing plates,and redrilled them off set so the cylinders cleared the spindle top.
Other than the shoes being on the correct sides (short shoe to the front), those backing plates and cylinders don't care which side they are on. Piece it together so you get the most level cylinder, and put the cylinders in so the hoses point to the back. Then assemble the shoes and hardware on the correct side. If you need to grind a bit on the spindle for clearance at the top, so be it.
I just went out and checked mine...there is a right and a left. Marked on the back. I think the only difference being the adjuster slot location. I set one up with spindle king pin vertical and there is a fair amount of rearward tilt.
Thanks everyone. when I get a good day I'm going to replace the wheel cylinders as one was leaking. I don't think anyone has modified the backing plates. Alchemy, Your suggestion makes sense to me. Worse case scenario, I'll switch the backing plates only (right for left etc) and leave the shoes and wheel cylinders in the same location. That way the wheel cylinders will be level.
Just as a follow up; I left everything as was but still had air in the wheel cylinders. So I decided to disconnect the hairpin radius rods from rear attachment point and raise them up on jack stands. This made the WC nearly level and was able to bleed them. Thanks for all your suggestions,
yes, that picture was from a few years ago. I adjusted the slots accordingly. Car is on the road now.
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