Looks like I should move axle back a bunch. I have heard 1/2 or so. This looks more like 1 1/2 inches. I can still put it anywhere. I am using early bronco axle, 32 crossmember and 32 spring. Using the fabbed plates in the bones. Been thinking I could make new plates to move axle back and maybe drop an inch or 3. Anyone ever done this? Sent from my SM-N960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
It's very common to move the axle back a little on 32's as well as 33-34. There's no measurement set in stone though. Roll the wheel around and measure your situation. The hangers on the back of 36 wishbones are a lot longer than the hangers on a 32 axle. That's why yours if too far forward a lot. Might be hard to make it all up with an offset mount on the axle tube.
I don't know what rear spring you are running but I use a straight spring not the stock 32 which moves the axle forward .
I found some of my old notes. Over the years I have had stockers and sometimes would take notes. 17 3/4 lower fender hole back to center of housing. Irrelevant really because it has to look right when no fenders. Sent from my SM-N960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Spring is straight! I was sure I put a 32 -34 spring in there. I will play with the mount plate on the bone and see what gives. Crossmember Too tight to tank to move crossmember back plus it's all welded in. Sent from my SM-N960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You'll probably never get it right without having all the weight on the wheels (all around), so the car sits just as you would want it when it is finished. But you can use heavy stuff to get it down. Make sure you have the exact wheel and size tires you will be using too, not builder junkers. Also, be sure your wheel base is the same on each side before you go moving things. When I did my 37 sedan, one side was 1" longer than the other despite following all the instructions for the new suspension parts. I suspect my frame wasn't all that square, either, before I started. But that also could have been just the differences in the rear fender openings, too. Getting it all square and even is work.
Hey Steve how have you been buddy and great to see the roadster is going forward. The original chassie set up when lowered it would move the rear axle forward when dropped like on my coupe in a stock location . Do you have the rear crossmember in its original location? I see the 36 bones but dont see if you have a torque tube. You can cheat a but if you have a TT with a housing spacer .
Hi John. Been many years. Retired from an outside job now. So I have unlimited hours for my projects. I thought I put the crossmember in factory position. I figure I have 2 options to lower chassis and move axle back. 1. Remake plate that holds axle to bones so axle is up and back around 2 inches. I could actually mount extra bar to front top of this plate and run it forward with the bone. 2 slice and dice the crossmember to move back and flatten. I could try 1 first and if that dont work go to 2 Sent from my SM-N960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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