Technical WCFB leaking through primary Venturi

I don’t think it floats, I’ve tested it for leaks and adjusted level so many different ways.

 

I’ve read this several times. I would like to try the trick of reving the engine to 2500 and cover the carb, but it’s too much fuel leak. At this point, it’s gotta be a clogged idle circuit. The next couple days I’m taking it apart all the way and cleaning it out. I got my kit from them. Maybe the new fuel filter had debris......cuz before that my car ran great!

 

Removed the carb, this is what it looks like OMG!!

 

Floats to the left are way too high,they'll spill over every time.

 

The 4GC carbs have the same bolt pattern as WCFB? After I rebuilt this carb, it was working perfect, choke, of idle, everything I love this little carb. I just can’t believe after changing a fuel filter this happen.

 

The photo of the top in the correct position , floats down as stated you primary or floats on the left side are bit way to high as stated . Always check with a drill bit or know size round stock

 

I like that. I’m finishing cleaning mine out hopefully it works. Maybe we can work something out, if your not using it. I’ll be in Pomona this weekend

 

Metering rods binding

 

I recheck my floats per everyone comments, I used a 1/8 and 1/4 drill bits. The bits verified the current level

 

I thought that also, these wcfb have a cover I can remove to check the rods. They go up and down, down at ideal then they go up when I hit the throttle. I think if they were binding I wouldn’t even be able to bolt it together or even move the throttle.

 

I have everything bolted together so I’ll install it tonight and see what happen.

I soaked everything, in pieces, in chem dip. Then washed off and sprayed every hole with carb cleaner and ran a thin wire and blew compressed air through em.

 

Spot on! If it only idles with fuel dripping out of the venturi's, then the carburetor doesn't have a functioning idle circuit. It isn't a fuel level problem. He will need to trace, clean, blow out the complete idle circuit. Something it blocking it. Probably dirt since he said it was working okay. He may have to take some tag wire and poke it through the passages.

 

Yes I did run a 28g wire though every hole. It has to be idle circuit!

 

Carter measures the float vertical height at the CENTER not the end of the float, raise your front float to about where your rear float is and you should be good to go. Once you get it running without fuel running into the engine then you can tackle the idle circuit.
I've done bunches of them even have the original Carter float level tools.

 

IT WORKS, IT WORKS, IT WORKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Just bolted it on, let the pump fill the bowl, hit the throttle and wammmm the hemi came to life, and no fuel spill. Knock it of the choke cam, brought up the idle and it was steady. Took it on a drive with no hiccups. Stayed steady idle at the lights. Got home checked inside the carb, let’s it sit in idle hit the throttle a few times, shut it off and back on, all smooth

 

So what did I do.......it seemed like most people were for the floats, and some for clogged idle circuit. In my experience bad floats symptoms were the carb overflow, not spraying from the venturis. I went with my initial measurements for the floats. I focused on really cleaning the carb, soaking it, spray carb cleaner, compress air, then wire though all holes. So I do believe it was a clogged idle circuit.

 

My take: the idle circuit was clogged and providing no fuel. The idle speed was adjusted so far that the throttle butterfly was open so far that the high speed circuit (not power enrichment, just main jet) was providing the fuel you saw dribbling out.

I stayed out of this after someone early on hit on the idle circuit. Glad you got it!

 

See this is the look I was going for. I didn’t like the plastic filter with rubber hose look, I wanted something more traditional looking. Soon I will chrome the intake and do something about the hoses. Tricky because inlet and outlet are different sizes.

 

Also thank you for taking the time to read and give your advice I really appreciate it

 

Nice engine picture. Traditional or not, I would be losing the glass bowl. (no appetite for fire....)

 

Hi , on this after much grief , i discovered that if the throttle return spring is not at a perfect 90 degree angle to throttle shaft it can put an end thrust on the shaft , moving it sideways , so then the plates are held against one side of bore , and they will hang up near closed and not always touch idle screw . Vacuum or not impacts this too , look at it with engine off — it is perfect . This after huge pain and 4 rebuilds of a perfect wcfb carb , problem of intermittent high idle and an off idle bog all caused by this .

. Critical info ,ya kno!

also be aware on mopar ported advance vacuum , no or very low vacuum in advance line at idle is correct . Corvette wcfb carbs apparently have advance at idle , so vacuum port location varies .
Ported vacuum and plates not closing combined pulls in advance incorrectly at idle further changing RPM . The two things interacting can drive you crazy . Nothing wrong with carb in all this fun .

Finally same carb bogs sometimes WOT , has to be secondary system . Not accel pump . So simple— what can go wrong and why sometimes ? What actually happens if floats drag on side walks ? thinking secondary float chamber not getting gas.
Mopar app 57 D500!

 

Old post but first time I’m looking at the engine photo. That air cleaner has got to go. I’d get a air horn extension and a much larger one. Nice to look at with dual quads but not for engine breathing.

 

This is what the motor looks now. Everything works well and performs perfect. No need for the choke in AZ. I able to find a matching WCFB. I thought about different air cleaners but the plugs look good and haven’t had a single issue. Plus their original of a 50s corvette with dual quads. It’s crossed my mind to sell it and fund another project I have.

 

Great tips! Saving this for when I fire off my Desoto. Thanks!