Projects 1935 Ford Waterfall

Nice!

You’ll need the chrome areas to be absolutely smooth and perfect. 2000 grit or better on the sanding. Any imperfections will jump out of the chrome at you.



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Looking great

 

Thanks for the positive words. I am trying to do the best job I can so I don't give this technology a bad reputation.

Thanks for the insight on the chroming process. I am getting a bit nervous about the guy in Michigan that said he could chrome this. He is starting to get a bit hard to reach and not return my messages. Found some other guys online that say they can chrome plastic so we will see.

Also I sent your website to a buddy of mine. He is huge into pinball machines and restoring them.

Thanks!

 

Plastic model builders have been using Alclad paints to achieve a chrome like finish for model car bumpers etc...Alclad Chrome is to be sprayed over ideally a gloss black paint in one or two thin coats......any good hobby shop should stock Alclad products.......it is available in both a spray can and small bottle for airbrushing................there are also a couple of hobby businesses that offer vaccum plating of model parts which is how AMT, Revell etc do their plating............andyd

 

Is Chrometech USA still in business? They used to plate resin cast parts or custom homemade plastic pieces fr model cars.

 

I came across this stuff on amazon called "resin spray". It's for cast pieces that are a little rough and you want to smooth them out. It even works on clear resin that you have sanded and/or want to smooth out. Just search "resin spray" on there and you will find more than one brand.
I used it on a shift knob that was a combination of wood burl and colored resin. It did great on the resin portion but on the wood, it puckered over time like wrinkle finish paint. I believe it would work well to eliminate sanding in the right circumstances and right material. But test it on something less critical than something you worked on for many days.

 

His web site now says that he is retired.



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I actually talked to a guy I know about Alclad last night. He didn't like it. I watched a video on it on YouTube and the result was mixed. Going to reach out to a few people today about vacuum plating it.

It appears the owner is retired. Which is a bummer because according to model car forums they were the best.

I'll have to look into it. I read yesterday that if I want to use a process like this https://spectrachrome.com I should not use any aerosol products. So still some research to do. Would like to find someone local to me that could help.

 

Update to this project. I received the actual printed part today from my printer. Here it is compared to the waterfall that was loaned to me.



Also some of you might notice that the bottom edge that rolls under the dash is a bit shorter on the 3d vs the stock waterfall. That is on purpose and not a mistake. My dash has an extension underneath it so the stock one wouldn't work on my car without some cutting.

 

This update to my 3d printed waterfall is a bit hard to write but I just keep telling myself if it was easy someone would have done this already.

Friday after work I went home and test the 3d printed waterfall to my dash. From day 1 I have been concern about the accuracy of my measurements. The stock waterfall that I borrowed seemed to be a bit loose on my dash so I did alter my model a little bit. Well, I tweaked it too much. The top rolled part seemed to fit the dash quite nicely but the windshield crank hole was too low for my liking. And the bottom of the waterfall did not wrap underneath the dash like I thought it should. You could force the waterfall on but I wasn't happy with it. Who knows some guys might just call me a perfectionist or too picky. But I wasn't happy with it. I will say just the 3d printed waterfall looked super cool in there.

So I went back to the drawing board and tweaked my design. This time I made little test strips to fit the dash. I have now made four in total. You should be able to see in the first image that I moved the crank hole between each version by about 1/8th of an inch each time. I lengthened the bottom piece by about 1/16th of an inch each time. Going to test fit tonight. From there I will rebuild the 3d model based upon which crank hole was centered the best and which bottom portion was lengthened the best. Then another 3d print and we will see how that one fits.

 

Cool! Really neat work. You have to have your guy make a roadster/cabriolet version without the crank hole. I think hot rodders who swap in dashes would like that option. They get some crazy money for them so a small run might be worth the time.


These are 36s but 35s, in your pattern also came without a crank hole.

 

It is definitely in the plans to make a version without the crank hole.

 

Roadsters and phaeton's did not have the dash waterfall.Woody's and Cabriolets are the same- no windshield crank hole.

 

I have heard that the woody and cabriolet versions of the waterfall are also deeper where they go over the dash. Is there any truth to this or are they the same as a closed car version?

 

Another way to go about this is to use stainless rods bent to shape and silver soldered. Add a flat backing and a gauge in the ashtray hole. Thats all metal, no plastic

 

Yes, the no-hole versions are a little deeper.

 

Just a quick video introducing myself and a walk around of the car that this waterfall is going on. Also showing how my first prototype fit and changes I am currently in the process of making so this thing fits like a glove (at least on my dash).

 

Right on, GBrown!

 

I have 3d printed turn signal lens on the front of my 50 nash.

 

Just a quick update to my 3D printed 1935 Ford Waterfall project I have been posting about over the last few weeks. It's easier for me to make these little YouTube videos and post then to write out all my thoughts on here.

Thanks in advance for watching. Sorry I have a face made for radio.

 

Turning out great Quinten!

 

Way cool, Quinten! Some people talk about doing something like that; you're actually doing it!

 

Thanks! I have given myself a deadline of the HRH to have it finished. Why I don't know. I guess I just need a deadline.

I think that is why I made this thread and started making these YouTube videos so I didn't turn into a talker and make myself accountable to be a doer.

 

Just a quick update. Tonight I went out to my buddies shop and took my test strips with me to try on one of his dashes. Seems like v1 is still the best fit to the dash and v3’s crank hole placement is best. Going to combine these and print a new waterfall. If that new waterfall fits like I hope it does I will move into the finishing phase of this project.





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New update to my 3D printed 1935 Ford Waterfall. This is a good one!

 

Nice job

 

Thanks.


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To be honest , I think I really like the way this version looks

 

This is brilliant.
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So that version is closer to a 1936 waterfall with the ashtray hole filled. It was my original plan to go that direction but then I decided I wanted to see how closely I could replicate a waterfall with a fake ashtray.

Thanks.




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