Technical Polishing Question

I tried my hand at polishing (sorry not pics!) and it's looking pretty good. Is there a quick way to remove the polishing compound from all the nooks and crannies? I tried liquid soap on a rag and extremely hot water. I also tried compressed air. Will acetone cut it? Alchohol?

 

I use acetone

 

For a safe (for finishes, paint, varnish, etc that is) and effective cleaner leaving no residue it would be tough to beat Naptha aka "Lighter fluid". 'Course, it is flammable, but you knew that already.

 

I use paint thinner on a q-tip swab.

 

I would think Acetone will work . Try brake clean with the little tube in the nozzle , that way you get the cleaner and a burst of pressure to dislodge minute pieces.

 

I'll give 'em all a try!

 

If it's dried, it usually works to put some more compound on it. Then use a toothbrush with some car soap mixture.

 

Doesn't acetone eat paint? Mineral spirit (turpentine?) or panel wipe / pre paint would be where I'd be looking, I think!

Chris

 

Sorry.....aluminum part.....Stromberg 97....

 

@Bandit Billy to the white courtesy phone!!!

 

As strange as it sounds, I seem to recall hearing that flour works.

 

Acetone or Eastwood PRE in a squirt bottle or aerosol.

 

Polishing is what separates men from the animal world. The easiest way to clean up hardened compound is NOT TO GET IN THE NOOKS AND CRANNIES TO BEGIN WITH! Sorry, cap lock key must have been on.
You don't have to polish edges, that is how you burn through paint. I use 3M fine line tape and cover the little seems between panels (like the rubber nose on the front and rear of a Trans Am for example), that prevents the compound form getting in those tiny areas and making a big mess. I tape up jambs, emblems, trim, glass (roll up the windows, compound on interior materials is hard to clean up), CONVERTIBLE TOPS! (damn cap lock), tail lights, grilles, frames, exhaust, tires and wheels, etc. Now you can polish without care, make a huge mess and clean up is a snap.

On a big job (wet sand, wool bonnet, etc) I also roll out paper on the floor (60" wide paper from Miller paint) and cover my lift posts (I prefer polishing cars on my lift, much easier on my back). I usually take off the tires and wheels so the car will sit on the ground to make it easier to do the roof, hood, deck...and it gives you a chance to detail the back of the rolling stock and wheel wells when you are done with the paint.

 

I thought he was polishing aluminum parts ?
Sorry.

Tommy

 

First, Strombergs aren't aluminum. They are pot metal.

Now, I always remove buffing compound from aluminum and stainless with some lacquer thinner on a paper towel.

 

Corn Starch and a micro fiber towel- works on anything

 

Denatured alcohol works and it’s not as strong as acetone

 

probably depends on whether you are polishing paint or aluminum.

 

On aluminum use varsol to remove the compound and white flour on a soft rag to buff the varsol residue off. Thinners etc cloud the finish. I had my own polishing company in a past life, I’ve polished a lot of metal


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I use mineral spirits to clean up the Airstream after polishing.



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Back inna day when I had a boat prop shop, after I repaired a SS prop and polished it up, I removed polish compound residue with cornstarch on the buffing wheel.