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Projects The Gin Runner 1926 T Gow

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Blackbob, Jan 8, 2020.

  1. Blackbob
    Joined: Nov 19, 2008
    Posts: 177

    Blackbob
    Member

  2. guitarguy
    Joined: May 26, 2008
    Posts: 650

    guitarguy
    Member

    Being I have been on the MTFCA forum for 15 years, yes, they tend to criticize if they bolt something on and it doesn't work.

    It used to be real stodgy over there, and while it sucks that alot of the older guys now have passed---and of course taken their knowledge and parts manufacturing to the grave with them, it has been a change in guard so to speak and see a bit of loosening up. That is a place for pretty much stock stuff, but there are a few hot rodders in disguise there.

    However, why on that lizard head they decided to move the plug farther away from the valves is beyond me. It is a poor design in my opinion. If you can unload it, then try and get Prus head. It is the best IMO with the old faithful Z head following closely behind it.
     
  3. Blackbob
    Joined: Nov 19, 2008
    Posts: 177

    Blackbob
    Member

    I hear ya!, I'll give it a try, but have done a deal for a 3 port Olds OHV head (that will need a fair bit of work) so I think it won't be on there for long!
     
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  4. guitarguy
    Joined: May 26, 2008
    Posts: 650

    guitarguy
    Member

    Whoa! Good deal! I actually just sold my '28 Chevy head setup that had just about everything needed to put it on an engine. I bought a Frontenac "T" head as it's replacement.
     
  5. trikejunkie
    Joined: Dec 2, 2011
    Posts: 220

    trikejunkie
    Member
    from Scotland

    Looking good Steve , same sort of technology as our old Indians lol
     
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  6. Blackbob
    Joined: Nov 19, 2008
    Posts: 177

    Blackbob
    Member

    Cheers Jim, aye all the same sorts of issues as the redskins but a lot cheaper for bits ;)
     
  7. Blackbob
    Joined: Nov 19, 2008
    Posts: 177

    Blackbob
    Member

    yeah, the deal is for a complete ..ish '28 Chevy motor that I want to put on a T oil pan and run with a T trans "Gerber style" in another rolling chassis that i have gathered, but the Olds head is for the Gin Runner .. as I say it needs work but that is half the fun!
     
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  8. redoxide
    Joined: Jul 7, 2002
    Posts: 756

    redoxide
    Member

    Great to see another early Ford nut from Scotland contributing here..
    You might already know a fella that lives close to me, He is a bit of a T nut, has a bit of stock and a few bits. Pie bob, so called as he runs a bakery shop in Arbroath.

    Project looks great, having fun is what its all about . Looking forward to more of your updates .
     
  9. Blackbob
    Joined: Nov 19, 2008
    Posts: 177

    Blackbob
    Member

    I haven't met any other T nuts up here, only one or two rods that I know of on the Black Isle a V8 pre war Rover and an orange Ford Pop. I hope to get out and about to some shows in the next year with mine and meet up with more folks .. Cheers
     
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  10. First off, great project! Will follow along for sure.
    Second; why do you guys think, placement of the spark plug above the piston is wrong?
    I would think, that it would give more and emidiate power, assimilating hemi-principle on a flathead.
     
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  11. I bought a TT chassis and various body panels from Tuckett Brothers. All coming together now. Cowl was a lot worse than yours. Engine is 347 Pontiac IMG-20190609-WA0001.jpeg IMG_20190303_124350_01.jpeg tapatalk_1538293253798.jpeg

    Sent from my moto g(6) play using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  12. Blackbob
    Joined: Nov 19, 2008
    Posts: 177

    Blackbob
    Member

    very nice work, love the bonnet/hood :cool:
     
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  13. The trailing looks like a good challenge and use of a car, not to mention loads of fun.
    I banged together the old rig ( T pickup body ,chev pickup bonnets trimmed to vaguely resemble a boat tail on a 29 A chassis)to race around a dry lake called Lake Perkolilli out in the desert country but events like this are few and far between out here.
    Having a purpose built vehicle is a bit of a waste here ,(not go enough to pass scrutineering to road race) I mentioned it to the organiser and he is going to try and get a trailing event on his brothers farm organised which would be a buzz.
    Enjoying this thread, thanks
     
  14. Blackbob
    Joined: Nov 19, 2008
    Posts: 177

    Blackbob
    Member

    I used to trial a 1950's Landrover with a 4x4 club, so the idea of doing the same sort of thing in a vintage car is really appealing. All you need are a pile of garden canes with numbers on them and a bit of rough ground and a few mates who want to have a bit of fun.
     
  15. Blackbob
    Joined: Nov 19, 2008
    Posts: 177

    Blackbob
    Member

  16. Desmodromic
    Joined: Sep 25, 2010
    Posts: 571

    Desmodromic
    Member

    Just ran across this thread today; hope it's still active.

    Having been a British car nut since my formative years, I've always been fascinated with the pecularly British sport of trialling. In fact, I've been hoping (in vain) to someday find an affordable Dellow trials car.

    It amazes me that such a broad spectrum of car types are used in trialling, and are competitively viable; everything from Model "A"s to Bugatties!

    Always wondered how the sport has managed to stay away from the "Roll bars must be chrome-moly" mentality.

    On the down side, I cringe to see how some beautiful "classic" cars are subjected to such abuse!

    Edited -- added picture of a Dellow, and the typical "power" unit (72 cid English Ford flathead four, this one actually in a Morgan 3-wheeler)

    20200210_061846.jpg 20200210_062208.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2020
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  17. Desmodromic
    Joined: Sep 25, 2010
    Posts: 571

    Desmodromic
    Member

    With regards to wheel bolt patterns; I could be wrong on this, but if I remember correctly --

    Several years ago, I was looking for some steel wheels to make up some wheels for a vintage midget that I have. The thought was to find wheels with the same pattern as on the midget's axles, cut out the centers, turn then down to suit, and weld them inside of 12" Crosley outer rims. I did considerable research, and concluded, surprisingly, that there was no such animal. So I puzzled, what in the world is the genesis of the traditional oval track car bolt pattern, still in common use today? Then I saw some Model T wooden wheels at a swap meet, and "Viola"! Six studs, one per pair of spokes, to hold the spokes to the hubs. If I remember correctly, the bolt circle was 5", and just about all pre-war Chevies were 5.5", as well as post-war light pick-ups, (including Toyotas and Nissans), all six lug. (I think you claimed your T hubs are 5.5"; maybe I have it backwards, or you measured wrong?)

    I don't know if Model A hubs can be adapted to a T axle, but Ford wheels (16 through 21") are easy to find (over here!). Or 4x4" Sprite/Midget/Austin hubs will bolt to early thirties Terraplane 17" wire wheels (interesting trivia but maybe useless information!).
     
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  18. Blackbob
    Joined: Nov 19, 2008
    Posts: 177

    Blackbob
    Member

    I managed to pick up an set of 6x5.5 Chevy wire wheels to match the 2 that I have. Ive been making up a steel adapter ring to try out, if it works ok I'll order some 1" thick aluminium and make a set of 4 with a centre boss for the Chevy wheel centre hole and a snug fit over the T wood hub centre.

    I'm a big Dellow fan, Ive been watching the market over here in the UK for a while, they do come up for sale every now and again but they are going for around the $25,000 mark which puts them beyond my piggy bank! 86695157_3084186114959332_3453654524940517376_n.jpg 86934107_3084186044959339_1863238254174666752_n.jpg
     
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  19. Blackbob
    Joined: Nov 19, 2008
    Posts: 177

    Blackbob
    Member

    I bought a plywood speedster body tub (came off a road going T) on ebay, mainly cos I wanted the seats. I also got a complete 26/27 transmission which will get fitted to one of the '28 Chevy 4 motors that I just bought from Andy McCann and if I can get it to work will go into the Gin Runner when I get the time :) .. for now the seats, which I think are Austin Seven, are a neat fit in the Model T seat base. I think I might re model the "behind the seat" bulkhead as it is a bit buckled, badly repaired and stops the seat backs fully tilting backwards. As they are I can get in and out the drivers side door and sit comfortably with my feet on the pedals .. jobs a goodun! :) 82869658_3063496343694976_4862806064665460736_o.jpg 87182809_3086494194728524_2751525086845468672_o.jpg 87698739_3101787829865827_8937108893163585536_n.jpg 87435970_3101787846532492_7722467531692179456_n.jpg 87417405_3101787916532485_9201866053271945216_n.jpg 84827819_3063495860361691_1744480634618773504_n.jpg
     
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  20. Digging stuff out for the swap meet on Sunday - know anyone doing the long trek down?
     
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  21. Love those seats, I see why you had to do that deal!
     
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  22. Blackbob
    Joined: Nov 19, 2008
    Posts: 177

    Blackbob
    Member

    No I don't. I don't know any other T owners in the area, I have heard of a fella over the water (Moray Firth) near Elgin but haven't caught up with him yet. I wish I could get down the road for it, but I have a new job starting in the next two weeks and have a lot to sort out before I start. I'll ask about though, where and when is it?
     
  23. North Weald Airfield this Sunday.
     
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  24. Blackbob
    Joined: Nov 19, 2008
    Posts: 177

    Blackbob
    Member

    92097989_3194599987251277_1178812649798893568_n.jpg All gone a bit quiet here in the Highlands of Scotland, we are all on lockdown, I just gett two short visits to the farm to feed the horses and walk the dogs. Today I did a bit of essential fence repair but no progress on the T :(

    Stay safe folks!
     
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  25. Blackbob
    Joined: Nov 19, 2008
    Posts: 177

    Blackbob
    Member

    Ive been using the workshop at my work to finish off the wheel/hub adapters for the Chevy wheels. Today I got them fitted for the first time. No brake drums yet as I need longer countersink screws.. good to get the old girl out of the barn for the first time in over a year :)
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2020
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  26. Blackbob
    Joined: Nov 19, 2008
    Posts: 177

    Blackbob
    Member

    Happy Christmas Folks! 132698108_3961082223936379_4636954472637858198_n.jpg
     
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  27. Blackbob
    Joined: Nov 19, 2008
    Posts: 177

    Blackbob
    Member

    During the week I took a 90 odd year old Model A inlet manifold, cut the inlet flange and as much stub as i could save off and welded it back on at the right angle of dangle for an inch n quarter SU .. still some drilling and filling to do but a good waste of time and not so rare parts .. oh and i found a gate latch tab in the bottom of my tool box to fill the hole left by the stub too . Today I had a trial fit before i spend more time on drilling, filing, brazing and fettling. Everything fits in nicely under the bonnet now apart from the big pancake filter, ill need to find a short bell mouth and gauze filter. 162296350_4197984536912812_5292514237067034657_o-1.jpg 163139395_4202458819798717_662486220867340806_n.jpg 163034906_4202458846465381_4678702737368282576_n.jpg 163364289_4202458963132036_7742526386348532738_n.jpg 164154039_4202460666465199_9050426900312763254_o.jpg 163478178_4202461439798455_6872056604496487279_o.jpg
     
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  28. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,479

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    I would be inclined to carefully cut a hole in the hood side and weld a ring on the inside of so I could have the chrome air cleaner hanging out the side. Hot rod style!
     
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  29. 282doorUK
    Joined: Mar 6, 2015
    Posts: 416

    282doorUK

    Interested to see how this works, i tried a bigger SU on my Chevy without much success.
     
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  30. clive
    Joined: Jul 11, 2008
    Posts: 12

    clive
    Member
    from england

    hell i love the look of this with the enduro tyres on
     
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