I need to re-install the back glass in my heap. Not the original opening, and just the outside sheet metal, no lip, recess, interior panel or anything. Window is smaller than the opening, doesn't sit outboard, but I could cut another one.. Last time I had it in there I bought an aftermarket gasket from the local VW bug shop, was only about $25. Looked pretty good after I got it in there, but a year later the previously butted seam at bottom center had about a half in gap. No biggie but it had also cracked at one of the corners, which have about a 3" radius. There was no locking strip. Now I'm looking at this stuff online, made by Trim-Lok I believe. Anyone familiar? They have both a one piece locking deal and a two piece with a separate lock strip. Do I even need 'locking'. Also, will I likely face the same shrinking and cracking as the cheopo VW one I used before? I looked at the Steele website, didn't see anything similar.
Those corners will always be a problem unless you use rubber molded to the radius. Nothing says you have to use the locking type. The tight corner radius will be difficult with the locking type. It won't want to lay flat at the corners making locking difficult if not impossible. Virtually all rubber seals shrink over time.
Good idea, worth a try. I didn't find the gap to be that big a deal, it was dead center at the bottom, could always put something to cover it. Well I guess I'll just buy another Bug rear window gasket.
I installed a lot of windows in vans in the '70's ands '80's, always put the joint at the bottom as you did, I always cut the gasket about 1"- 1 1/4" long. Butt the ends then squeeze the rubber around to eliminate wrinkles, you end up with pressure against the joint. More recently I've chopped some tops and had to cut various window rubbers, I've found the best adhesive to be Loctite 406. I usually make up some sort of jig to align the joint before glueing- a routed slot in a scrap of plywood, lexan squares to keep slots aligned, etc. You could do the same, glue the joint before installation. It seems a lot of the repop rubber we get now is very sensitive to UV deterioration (cracking), like plastics there are many different materials available now and I'm not very knowledgeable about what's best suited for car weatherstrip. The more expensive stuff like Carpenter and Steele seems to last better.
That type of window seal is common on equipment and step vans. Good advice from some of the previous posters, I will add make sure you purchase the gasket for the correct combination of panel and glass thickness. Another source for these type of products is C.R. Laurence, you should be able to find a glass shop or upholstery shop local that carries their products. Also CRL lists the minimum bend radius.
With the locking gaskets does it matter which side is out? Looks like the non locking side is wider and taller.
Why not ask the folks at Trim Lock, meathead. Well I did, here's the answer: The Locking key should go into the inside, since someone would be able to pull the locking key, take the glass off and get inside your car or truck! Fair enough but not something I'm worried about. And they sell chrome plastic key, nobody's putting that on the inside I hope. Hmm
73 to 87 chev trucks had the locking key on the outside never thought to pop the front windshield out when I locked the keys inside Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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