Projects 26 T Roadster Pick Up build Thread

Google says it should hold 8 quarts with a stock pan and torque converter, but apparently that is not enough!

 

Progressive linkage? Get it running right on the center carb alone first, then connect the linkage to the end carbs. Set timing first, then dial in the idle mixture screws. There are different methods, but a simple one is to use a vacuum gauge and adjust each mixture screw, one at a time, for highest vacuum reading, then screw it in for a slight vacuum drop, or about 20 rpm drop in idle speed. Reset idle speed to your preferred setting, probably around 800 rpm, high enough so that it doesn't stall when you put it in gear. Do the full adjustment process on each side; and it doesn't hurt to go through it a couple of times to get the smoothest idle and crispest acceleration. Once you're satisfied with the way it's running, then hookup the end carbs, and try to adjust the action for the smoothest transition from 1 to 3 carbs, a later engagement will help, too early and it'll bog.

 

Not sure, but maybe this will help.

 

Google seems to be all over the map with the capacity. In other words there’s everywhere from 5-18 quarts depending on where you look, different websites etc.

I’ll just get some more fluid and add with it running in park until I get a full reading on the dipstick.

 

Run it through the shift pattern after each new quart.

 

I think most recommendations don’t account for an empty converter. I know it took a shit load to fill mine.

- standard, not metric shit load. Not sure what the conversion rate is on that

 

So just how much is a standard shitload?

I thought while I was dumping coolant into my radiator and filling the empty engine “ where in the hell is it all going?”

4 jugs and it was finally full.

 

Oh and I totally forgot about the amount that fills the trans cooler and lines.

I think a standard shitload is just a little less than a metric fuck ton.

 

Since we are metric up here Larry, I think a standard shitload is equal to a Metric shit tonne. at least that’s the conversion I’ve always used.


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If you use the conversion for tons a metric shitload is 1.12 times more than a standard old US shitload.

 

You guys are a barrel of laughs
I’m going to Canadian tire and probably later I’ll get my timing light hooked up and set the timing.
Then I’ll do the final carb adjustments and set up the linkage.

I have some work to do on my gas pedal as I want to add idle and full throttle position stops to it.

 

As always nice work. I’m sitting here trying to convince my two year old to use the potty, while my oldest teenage daughter is in California playing basketball. All the while wishing it wasn’t blizzarding and that I had a shop that was heated so I could play cars as well.


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I love my heated garage.
But even so this time of year having the big door open for running the engine is a cool experience.

It was too windy today but Saturday is supposed to be +3 and calm again so that will be the day.

Set the timing and a final carb adjustment and balance with the Uni Syn.

I’ll have to set up a good fan to bring some fresh air in, I don’t have any exhaust compatible hose to pipe it outside and under the door.

My only option is to have the big door open.

 

Looking at options for exhaust hoses to vent exhaust outside I came up with this.
$430 for 2 -11 foot hoses and the adapters for the tailpipes.

That would allow me to run the hoses out under the door and still have the door down to within a few inches of closed.

The next option would be to install door ports for the hoses. That’s another $80 or so.

Its a lot of expense but the last time I had the car running for about 35 minutes and even with the 16x8 door wide open (the car sits about 7 ft from the door) and a fan running I still experienced a bad headache and I know that the CO was the reason because I just felt a little off too.

I don’t know, just wait until spring or...spend some more money


There’s really no cheap way to do this.

 

Man,

That's a tough choice. For me it would be a no brainer 'cause I couldn't afford the 500 bux.

Is it possible to pull the car outside for just this tune/test? (I'm sure you've already considered this; just askin')

 

You probably already own a snow shovel. Clear the drive and push that thing outside lol

 

Would aluminum flexible dryer duct work?

 

How about a gas mask?

 

Roadsters don't mind a little snow.

 

Why not just buy some exhaust pipes to extend through the door?

 

Thanks guys, no dryer duct wouldn’t work it would probably leak and or melt.

I could move the car outside if I liked the cold. Snow really isn’t the issue cold fingers etc would be the problem.

I’m not sure what I’ll do right now thinking on it.

In the meantime I got a new pocket computer today AKA an IPhone 11 Pro.

 

Hmmm. Heated snow mobile gloves have got to be less than $500

 

I’d like to see you trying to tune carbs with big thick gloves on while you were shivering like a parts cleaning machine and wiping your runny nose continuously with your sleeves.

I’ve done a lot of mechanical and other construction work outside in all winter weather but I was a bit younger.

As I got a little older I really like my shop heater

 

I’m just going to try to get some more fresh air into the garage and that should do the trick.

I’ll open a window and set up my 12” 2400 cfm confined space fan, the same one I used for my paint booth.

 

Dryer hose should work, those things get really hot. As talented as you are making an adapter to fit the tail pipe shouldn't be too hard and a large hole saw and a dryer wall vent.....just thinking here.

 

this type all aluminum

 

Those kits are made for frequent wear of use, for commercial tuning so to speak. If your wallet is okay with that .. probably last you your lifetime, & then some.

Your tip size being 2" or near, for dryer ducting you'd need to step up to 4" since that's minimum dryer duct size .. but you could easily make your cones with duct pipe, tin snips, & duct screws to cheaply go into a 4" adapter ring.

Either buy 4" dryer duct exits, or exit .. & cut a 4" round hole thru your wall or door, with your choice of hole cover, or bulkhead fitting. Garage door critics may not like any such mod' .. especially for resale.

Dryer duct max length is 35' ... straight shot. Believe you can buy 25' duct length. You may even get by with two ducts into a wye, & one exit. Terminal velocity into a duct-altor formula would be precise.

I remember an HVAC guy on the HAMB. Anyone remember the 40 pickup, with removable roof top ? A Texas guy .. be interesting to shoot him an email for thoughts on DIY alternatives.

Tuner guys like high temp silicone tubing, used in aircraft, & etc. Cheaper than the exhaust kit. It's out there .. search for cheaper.

Interesting topic, likely attractive to many members.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/p...qYfWDIH_I_J5-WNTczV9pbHrjZulskQxoCWb0QAvD_BwE

 

Well I’ve reached a decision, I’m going to invest in this kit from Crush proof hose.

I’ll order depending on who can offer me the best price and shipping options.
http://www.northernautoparts.com/part/cp-dss30

 

Good. Money saved to spend on your hot rod !!

I'd think quick storage, when not using ... & care to not step on it when in use ... should last ya' quite a while !

 

Before I clicked order I decided to check out Kijiji and there it was
Brand new in the box for $175 Canadian and no shipping.
A guy had bought it but never used it.


I picked up the port to install in the door to run the hose through and I’ll be set to go