Hot Rods Steel tube for motor mount (where to get)

I should add that if you ultimately buy tubing with an inside diameter of .4375................
Either before or when done welding, chamfer the tubing on both ends, you need the chamfer for starting the bolts but it is also easier to start the 15/32" drill bit, giving 1/32" clearance.
If you use a 7/16" drill bit, (after welding), be careful as too high of rpm's could dull the lands of the drill bit and seize it in the bore.

 

I get tubing here. It’s always special order, not cheap and a full stick. It’s 3/4 od with a 3/8 hole. I can tap it for 7/16 bolt or ream it for 3/8 bolt.
What you want doesn’t seem to be listed on DOM tubing chart. You’re going to be drilling round bar stock. And $10.00 a piece is pretty cheap for that.

Using the factory mount , (the ones that utilize a rubber pad and flat pad) for a solid motor mount is kinda hokey anyways. Look for different style solid mounts.

 

Home depot in the plumbing aisle. Get a black iron schedule 80 pipe and cut it the length you need. You may have to run a drill through it as it will be seamed tubing. Used it many times .
Think built, not bought. Might cost you 3 or 4 dollars.

 

Here, end of your problem, and of course it's sight here on the M.A.M.B.

Small block chevy motor mounts weld in.

 

Did you try a 1/2 black pipe nipple?
4” nipples are cheap,cut off the threads

 

With schedule 80 pipe you should not need to ream it but you might....
You probably do not want standard or schedule 40 pipe, wall will be too thin....

LynnW

 

I havnt seen it around here, there’s a fire sprinkler company the next town over that I could maybe try,they have pipes for buildings fire system plumbing

 

T234156

https://www.metalsdepot.com/steel-products/steel-round-tube-dom

3/4 OD x .156 wall x .437 ID
1020 DOM A513 Round Steel Tube

They will sell this in custom, short lengths, too.

 

https://www.mcmaster.com/4500k113

 

.156 wall is plenty as you are dealing with surface area, If you want a heavier wall you are going to have to drill and ream 7/8" bar stock.

 

any good sized plumbing supply or hardware store (not big box) should be able to order it for you if they don't stock it....

LynnW

 

Where is the "Valley" in Ca.? I've a little Logan lathe that can make that for you. Just bring over the OD bar stock you want, I'll make a straight hole or two

 

Chevy mounts are so cheap, I can't imagine it being practical to make them, other than for personal satisfaction.

If you are so determined and don't value your time, I'm sure you can find a steering shaft or tie rod at the local scrap yard that would work. You don't really need a super heavy wall thickness, there is not much stress on this part. The load is mostly passed on to the ears or lugs it is welded to, which should maybe be 3/8" thick.

The whole design, which you haven't described, seems to be for solid mounts. I'm sure I'll get a lot of disagreement on this, but I would almost never use such. Think about using an elastomeric pad, or the end removed from a heavy duty shock absorber. Or use the bushing from the end of a leaf spring, and an appropriate steel sleeve.

Using the tubular piece, I would either ream it for a fairly snug fit, or better, tap threads in it for the bolts.

Google "pipe dimensions" if you want a quick education. As opposed to tubing, the nominal size is not the OD, but always greater. For example, all 1/2" pipe has an OD of .840". Wall thickness various with the schedule (40, 80, "extra strong", 160, "double extra strong"). There is a plus .031" tolerance on OD, and a +/- 12.5% tolerance on wall thickness, so the ID can be somewhat larger than expected.

By the way, ERW (electric resistance welded) tubing or piping is virtually identical in strength to seamless or DOM, whether for this, chassis components, roll bars, or anything else.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Steel-Bushing-Sleeve-5-8-OD-x-7-16-ID-x-3-Long-4-Pcs-/113681839413
Maybe these will work for you??

 

I did mine using black plumbing pipe from Ace Hardware. I used a pipe nipple and cut the threads off. It probably cost me all of $2.

 

Old ford steering shaves work for me

 

Go with the drill/ream. You would be done by now. I have a lathe if you really need help.