Dear all, I got an 8ba in my 1949 Shoebox. When I bought I drove a while and everything was good. One time the car died in my garage while I tried to take a ride with it. - distributor failed - mechanic I thought ok leave the dizzy alone (it was a Bubba's, but I didn't know at that time) I bought a electronic one - runs fine for 600km - again failure while driving this time... Ok, we changed the platine from the dizzy and drove 3000 km without problem. Today I would like to make a last "this-years-ride". I was collecting my stuff, while the car was idling.. and died again. Coil measurement shows 5.0 Kiloohms and 0.8 Ohm other circut. I tried my ignition coil from my 1936 Coupe - nothing - also again the dizzy.... What makes me wonder is that I have on both sides of the coil 12 Volt + ...any ideas? What could it be??? Thanks for any help or recommend Michael
Okay,,when you say your distributor failed,,,you mean electronic module ? The drive gear,,housing and bearings are okay right ? It just goes dead ? No fire ? Tommy
That’s okay,,,,I was just making sure . What kind of electronic unit do you have,,,,some brands are known for a high failure rate. Also,,,,,that is why I almost always use dual points in everything,,,old school,,,Lol . Tommy
Please mention that even the Bubbas mechanic one failed onces in the beginning... What could accure this...? A weak ignition coil..?
Not a fix for the purest,but there are guys who put Chevy distibutors in the late flatties.The housing shaft body gets turned down to fit.Im sure theres still folks in the hot rod world who could do it for you.New points,and cond.,and it should be trouble free.
If the dual point distributor failed I am at a loss for ideas. It would have to be too much voltage for the points I would think. Although,,,points can burn if left turned on ,,,the key left on,,,without the engine running. Hope someone smarter here can help . Also,,,are the hot rods In your avatar all yours,,,,if so,,,awesome ! Tommy
Too much unknown here to really offer much help. What failed on the first distributor? Points? Condenser? Rotor/cap? When you replaced it with electronic distributor, did you make sure the spark plug cables were not solid core? and spark plugs are resistor type. Solid core wires and non-resistor plugs can kill a SS ignition. So can leaving the key in the "Run" position with the engine not running, on some SS ignition modules.
Thanks for all your efforts and help After fail of the first electronic platine, I changed to the correct wires and meant everything is solved now and that I was stupid to go with full copper core cables... What happens with the first one I did not know - I offered it as broken an was sold in a couple hours... I think I will buy a new coil and try the new platine I got for the dizzy.... hopefully this combination works out... I hate to drive with a doubt in my neck.. :-( Michael
There were mine - no I got a 36 Five Window and a 1949 Shoebox - both flatheads - you rumnin trouble here in Germany with other engines right now....very sad...
should not have 12 volts on both sides of the coil. if its a bosch blue like old vw's use, no resitor needed, otherwise, a ballast resistor should be there some where. much of what buba sells is the modified chevy distributor, is that what you have?
If you are running 12V you should have a resistor in line prior to the coil. Should be 12V and 9V out. A 12V distributer with few exceptions does not run on 12V. You should also have a 12v temp start system. it would deliver 12V to the + side of the coil (if you are running negative ground) while the engine is cranking and back to resisted voltage once it fires.
English isn't his first language, he's doing his best, but isn't real clear. I think he replaced the points distributor with an electronic ignition, could be a Pertronix, could be an HEI, he hasn't said. So, forget the points system advice, and think electronic. He wouldn't need a ballast resistor with electronic. A clue here is he is showing + voltage on both sides of the coil, indicating no continuity to ground through the distributor. Indicating a failed module?
Hey Michael, sorry but I'm not sure of everything. I realize English isn't your first language and you're doing your best to explain it, but we need a little more info. I'm not sure what a platine is, but I'm thinking it's a new module for the distributor. Is this a GM HEI type of distributor, or a Pertronix, or something else?
On a mechanical points distributor and using a ballast resistor, both sides of the coil will show 12 volts when the points are open. When the points are closed (and are making good contact), the resistor side of the coil should show somewhere between 6 to 8 volts, and near zero volts on the distributor side of the coil. With an electronic distributor it's a little more difficult to troubleshoot just by measuring voltage, as the triggering mechanism needs to be rotating in order to operate, but at a minimum you should see a pulsing voltage across the terminals of the coil while you are cranking the engine.
The 8BA distributors SUCKED, period. Also Ford's great "Loadamatic" try fell on it's ass. There are some after market units that are better but it's hard to beat the durability and ease of use of a Chevy with the top weights and point setting window.
Not to bust your balls but I used the search feature and three pages came up related to this subject.
[QUOTE="Blues4U, post: 13386754, member: 273585" A clue here is he is showing + voltage on both sides of the coil, indicating no continuity to ground through the distributor. Indicating a failed module?[/QUOTE] I'm taking that Plantine = Module 12 V on the distributor side of the coil does mean that the circuit is open. From experience blowing modules (more than one) means that you have other issues in the ignition system that are causing the problem with the module. Wrong coil, no resistor where one is needed, bad ground or ?? It still comes down to what caused the first failure with the point type distributor. There isn't a whole lot to go bad in the distributor it's self outside of points not adjusted, burned points (probable cause this time) or a bad condenser.
I'm taking that Plantine = Module 12 V on the distributor side of the coil does mean that the circuit is open. From experience blowing modules (more than one) means that you have other issues in the ignition system that are causing the problem with the module. Wrong coil, no resistor where one is needed, bad ground or ?? It still comes down to what caused the first failure with the point type distributor. There isn't a whole lot to go bad in the distributor it's self outside of points not adjusted, burned points (probable cause this time) or a bad condenser.[/QUOTE] Dear all, sorry for not answering timely. We got only a few hours to sylvester. Of course it is the module or circuit board - sorry for the wording. The company is CRT Performance. Before it was Bubba. I am with Mr48Chevy. I will check ground and buy new coil. CRT recommended no resistor. I will mount the new modul and new coil and ground an try again. Perhaps I will sell the CRT and go backbto Bunbas. Happy new year - soon - ca. 2h to go Michael
Thanks a lot to everyone for any information, opinion and recommendations! This helps me a lot and gave me ideas what to do. I will let you know how it worked out. Best regards Michael
Coil has to be one that matches the module. There are probably 20 similar threads on here with similar issues with modules. If you have the exact peripheral items that the distributor manufacture/ converter suggest you usually don't have a problem. If you have a mix and match of components you often have problems.
Hi all, After doing a research, I found out the info in the attachment. Use a high voltage coil. I used a msd blaster2 Also, I will check and if neccesary change all the ground wires. Will let you know than Michael
Hi all, Today i changed the complete modul and transistor. From measurement no problem found! Put the dizzy in the engine - starts with the first turn!!!! Now I am not sure what to do - sell the now functional dizzy and buy a Bubba's again? Or buy another coil with high voltage and lower ohm as 0.7 ? Please give me recommends. Thanks a lot Michael
The Jalopy Journal
