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Projects A Speedster Comes Out of the Weeds—Build Thread

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by ClarkH, Dec 25, 2015.

  1. Wow. Tomorrow, it will have been 4 years since this thread was started, and what a journey it has been.

    This is what it's all about. Thanks for having us along for the ride.



    Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    40two, george cato, loudbang and 4 others like this.
  2. Loose Ctrl
    Joined: Dec 21, 2014
    Posts: 53

    Loose Ctrl
    Member
    from Upstate,SC

    That long? It doesn't seem like it.
     
  3. ClarkH
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 1,412

    ClarkH
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Merry Christmas everyone! In what is now an annual holiday tradition, I’ll start this post with the usual Christmas card. Photoshop props to @Stogy for putting my speedster in the foreground.
    ClarksMC_garage2016.jpg
    With the time I have available today before the family stuff begins, I thought I’d update my windshield project.

    With the w/s posts in place, it was on to making a frame. In years of scouring swap meets, searching online and pestering friends, the only viable options I could lay my hands on were two-piece mid-20s Chev roadster and 26-27 Model T.

    I considered my options. Both frames would need to be narrowed. The lower Chev frame already fit the stanchions, leaving a perfect gap for the rubber seal that goes between frame and cowl. However, Chev lower frames being shorter than Ts, I would need to also use a cut-down upper frame—in other words, a two-piece windshield. Testing showed this put the seam between the two sheets of glass directly in my field of vision, and when cut to what I judged the right height, put the upper frame at the edge of my upper vision. On top of that, my wife didn’t like the look of a big squared off frame topping off a beautiful curvy body. (I made an analogy to sexy librarians wearing heavy black glasses, but she wasn’t having it.)
    library.jpg
    The other option was to just use the T lower half, like so many guys did in the day. No upper frame blocking vision, just a glass edge. A nice look. Problem is, the T frame was too short. Remember, the cowl on this car is ~4” shorter than a Model A. So even with my seat dropped as low as possible, testing showed my eyeballs would be looking just over the top of the glass.

    I considered having a curved windshield top made, like @Paul did several years ago in his '27 Roadster Saga. But several things made this problematic—chief among them my plan of making a top for it later.

    So in the end, I went with the odd-yet-obvious choice of extending the height of the T frame. Wasn’t sure I could pull it off, but figured it was worth a try. Started on this a few days ago, and here’s where I am so far.

    First, the T frame went under the knife.
    knife.JPG
    Cut a pair of 4” slugs out of an upper frame, to be grafted into the lower.
    sections.JPG
    Made an insert out of round-stock to tie everything together. Ground the top to match the half-moon internal profile.
    rough-plug.JPG
    Discovered that the upper and lower frames had slightly different internal profiles. So I carefully ground and filed the ends to match, using a crude leveling method to keep everything more or less square. (Aside: that carpenter’s square was among a batch of new tools my father gave me for my 6th birthday. Still using it all these years later!)
    profiles.JPG
    finished-plug.JPG
    leveling.JPG
    plug-inserted.JPG
    Clamped everything into a section of angle and welded the seams.
    clamped.JPG
    For added strength, I drilled through each section and inserted tension pins. Yes I’m a belt and suspenders guy. Just like Santa!
    drilling.JPG
    belt-and-suspenders.jpg
    And here’s where I am now.
    finished.jpg
    Next step will be to shorten the two posts and determine the final exact width of the frame. Hopefully I can get to that this weekend.

    That’s all for now, family awaits. I hope you're all haveing a wonderful holiday.
     
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2019
  4. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,799

    flatford39
    Member

    I need to see more of sexy librarian with glasses to be totally honest with you....
     
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  5. ClarkH
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 1,412

    ClarkH
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    "Always leave them wanting more." —P.T. Barnum :D
     
  6. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,345

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER


    Clarks_SpeedsterTopoff.jpg

    Clarks_SpeedsterTopoff_Foldown.jpg

    Clarks_SpeedsterTop1.jpg

    Clarks_SpeedsterTopV1b.jpg

    :rolleyes:...New Years Inspirations...;)

    Based on this Seating Profile below...

    Clarks_SpeedsterTop_Base.jpg

    All the Best in the Year Ahead @ClarkH

    Credit to All That Inspired this


     
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2019
  7. Loose Ctrl
    Joined: Dec 21, 2014
    Posts: 53

    Loose Ctrl
    Member
    from Upstate,SC

    That actually looks pretty cool even though it takes away from the speedster look a little. I'm all for extending the driving season. Glad I live in the south.
     
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  8. Blues4U
    Joined: Oct 1, 2015
    Posts: 7,589

    Blues4U
    Member
    from So Cal

    Dang Stogy, that's some impressive work there! I think the profile would be better if it was chopped a couple of inches, but as your work showed, that looks about right for Clark's height, unless he can drop the seats a couple of inches.
     
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  9. ClarkH
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 1,412

    ClarkH
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks @Stogy! That is certainly something I can envision for the future. Key to that folding windshield would be grafting stout pivots into the stanchions. Probalby also means making a low valance across the cowl and using a flat-bottomed frame, maybe a T or Chev top. Fortunately those Chev stanchions are relatively easy to find--I've collected 3 pairs—so I can experiment down the road.

    I'm also with you, @Blues4U, on trying to get the top as low as possible. Also on my winter project list is cutting a hole in the plywood seat bottom to add webbing, which will drop driver and passenger down and inch or so. That's about all the room I have left.

    Of course for now, the windshield will be fixed—it's the most expedient path, and I've got a big punch-list to get through before spring. But I love having future concepts like this to noodle on. At Christmas, a well-meaning inlaw asked, "When will that car be done?" My answer, "Well, it's drivable now. As for being done, if I'm lucky, that will never happen." They didn't undertand. :D
     
  10. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,345

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    :rolleyes:...;)...Thanks @ClarkH and the others...I'm enjoying this challenge and agree lowering the top would aid in visual aesthetics...but it would take some seating mods that you would have to get creative on...it's truly a fine line as where and how you sit matters.

    While I was doing this I was thinking as Blues, floor pan drop between the frame or modding the seat frame and as you said the seat pad itself could net a few inches...all under your discretion of course.

    I will drop it down a couple when I have a moment...for furthur pondering and inspiration...

    Clark do you have any side profile pics with you sitting in it?...I believe I'm close but it may offer a more accurate rework...
     
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2019
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  11. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,345

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Last edited: Dec 28, 2019
  12. Loose Ctrl
    Joined: Dec 21, 2014
    Posts: 53

    Loose Ctrl
    Member
    from Upstate,SC

    Bomber seats? DIY bomber seats aren't very expensive and light to boot.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  13. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,345

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Clark did have some stripped down Anglia seats to use but chose a vintage bus seat he modded...

    I went back in the thread and here are some pics highlighting the area around and below the seat...one bonus is the wooden floor...I think

    Seat-refitted.JPG

    Seat-folded.JPG

    Seat-pivot.JPG

    Pretty nifty installation and the rear tabs go through slots in the subfloor cross brace...

    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/a-speedster-comes-out-of-the-weeds—build-thread.1003005/page-13#post-12108578

    Upholstered...

    Seat-Intalled.JPG

    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/a-speedster-comes-out-of-the-weeds—build-thread.1003005/page-14#post-12189977

    Perhaps as your mentioned proposed mod,
    Clark with cutting relief and webbing combined with a foam with the right amount of give you can achieve your goal.

    I see possibilities in cutting holes through the plywood and inserting metal pockets with flashing that inserted would provide additional drop...the back being a Stiffener/Crossbrace would be a more challenging mod but entirely possible if needed...and I'm thinking you could gain another 1"-1.5"perhaps...

    I can see your not done with this journey yet and I'm happy to be along for the ride...

    Credit to Photographer, Owner
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2019
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  14. Loose Ctrl
    Joined: Dec 21, 2014
    Posts: 53

    Loose Ctrl
    Member
    from Upstate,SC

    That seat is already pretty low. May have to sink the seat into the floor to get the top lower.
     
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  15. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,345

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'm curious of the available voidage under that floor panel...
     
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  16. ClarkH
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 1,412

    ClarkH
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yes, I was initially thinking some kind of bomber-style seats, because they’re cool. But with only 34” of width to work with in the cockpit, there wasn’t enough room. So I went with the bench. And now that I’m actually using the car, I’ve discovered something else. Turns out the driver’s door on this car is strictly decorative. Using it requires a contortion act, squeezing my thighs through the 7” gap between steering wheel and seat. Much easier to enter on the passenger side and slide across on the bench seat.

    restricted-entry.JPG
    I really appreciate these thoughts on seating! I’ll put webbing in the seat-bottom for sure, because after about 10 miles or so that plywood starts to feel pretty harsh. But now you guys have me thinking about the possibility of additional relief via the floor. There's room for it under the driver side, no problem. Doing it on the passenger side would require relocating the battery shut-off and cables. No sure I want to do that; I like having it at hand in case of emergency. Then again, my wife is so petite that she doesn't need the extra clearance anyway. Thanks very much for this idea; good to have options!

    Spent some time in the garage today. Here’s the latest on the windshield project: First, I cut the w/s posts down to stubs and mounted them to the car.
    chopping.JPG
    stubs.JPG
    Next, using a rusty and mangled post as a template ($5 swap meet find), made a series of chops until I got it right. Wound up removing about 4”, which is what I had initially estimated.

    test-fit.JPG
    Chopped my good posts and clamped everything together for fitting, then came inside for coffee and to check on the Hamb.
    mocked-up.JPG

    I’ll fiddle with everything later to get the spacing right, then mark my final cuts to the bottom of the w/s frame.
     
  17. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,345

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Last edited: Dec 31, 2019
  18. I've seen the spy photos....I won't spoil it......but this thread needs an update.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  19. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 4,335

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    The plot thickens.....
     
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  20. ClarkH
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 1,412

    ClarkH
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks for the nudge, @Hitchhiker and @s55mercury66 . Yes, there’s been progress. I finished the frame, and now have glass.
    glass-installed.JPG
    Huge thanks to Doug and Ken at Victory Glass in Auburn. Great guys with an amazing portfolio of work, but still happy to take the time for humble project like mine.

    Here it is mocked up for final modification/fitting of the posts.
    WS-test-fit.JPG

    With the frame centered I added the little wedges needed to square-up the posts.
    post-wedge.JPG
    A little welding, a little grinding, a little prep, and now I’m waiting for paint to dry.
    posts-painting.JPG
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2020
  21. ClarkH
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 1,412

    ClarkH
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    OK, the windshield is done and installed, and I’m pretty happy with the result. After all, I've been going around and around trying to devise a solution in my head for years! Yes, it’s an amateur job cobbled together from multiple parts of multiple marques. But it ended up looking pretty good.
    WS-done.JPG

    I could maybe wish I’d made it an inch or so lower, but that's splitting hairs.

    Chevy w/s mounts being slightly bigger than Ford, had I to shim up the Model T mounts to fit. I made the shims out of 18 gauge, which filled the gap perfectly. Since they are tapered, the shims are essentially a segment of a cone, 1 1/4” top, 1 1/8” bottom. This was probalby overthinking it, but it was a fun opportunity to dredge up ancient junior high memories from Mr. Wade’s technical drawing class.
    WS-shims.JPG

    I think Mr. Wade would have given the project a C+. But it got the job done.

    More elegant is the matched pair of vintage beveled mirrors that I dug up out of @Hitchhiker 's Big-Box-O-Mirrors. Thanks Matt!
    WS-mirrors.JPG
    I drilled and tapped them right into the posts. A huge improvement from the clamp-on mirror I was using.
     
  22. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 17,388

    Squablow
    Member

    I like it. It looks very functional, and very period-appropriate, like something someone building a speedster in the 30's would have come up with.

    I've never been a fan of those little round of half-round windshield disks that so many speedsters seem to get.
     
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  23. ClarkH
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 1,412

    ClarkH
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks, and agreed. Early on, a couple guys who had those on their speedsters strongly advised me against those Aeroscreens, saying if they had it to do over they would prefer a proper full windshield. Apparently the one thing those little things don't do very well is actually shield the wind. Which at the end of the day is kind of the point.

    Plus, they would prevent me from pursuing the cool top ideas that @Stogy posted.
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2020
  24. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,345

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    :rolleyes:...Top Mark's @ClarkH that looks fantastic...and your appreciation for the Visual Inspirations is heartwarming...Thank You

    It is a unique way of being involved...you and so many others provide the ambience for Creativity and my mind is never without it's own Inspiration due to that...thanks always for inviting us into the Shop...;)
     
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  25. I probably shouldn't tell you about the windshield parts i found this weekend.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  26. ClarkH
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 1,412

    ClarkH
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Doh! Aint that always the way :confused:...




    ...and I still want to see them. ;)
     
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  27. I like the minimalist mirrors -- those are really slick!
     
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  28. ClarkH
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 1,412

    ClarkH
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Another winter project has been the installation of a back panel/firewall in the cockpit to separate the seating area from the gas tank. In some ways it seems kind of shame to do this—everyone gets a kick out of the peekaboo view the cool aluminum aviation tank back behind the seat. But sometimes those darn safety considerations have to take precedence.

    My thinking is to create a curved back panel with a removable access hatch for the battery and fuel tank. Frankly, at this point I'm afraid it may not be the most graceful thing. But thankfully it will be covered when I get around to installing a proper interior (next winter’s project?)

    I initially tried (and failed) to form the curved side panels and mounting lips in one piece. That would have been a nice clean approach but proved to be beyond my skill set. Rather than waste sheet metal on repeated attempts, I just cut the lips off and made overlapping flanges that could be fitted and tacked together. Easy but ugly. Anybody with a scrap of dignity probably would probably skip posting these pics, but here goes.
    First try:

    cutouts.JPG

    Fail! (Hard to see, but in the pic below the flanges don't align with the door support where they're supposed to attach.)
    initial _fit.JPG

    Second try:
    flanges added.JPG
    Success (of a sort):
    IMG_1982.JPG
    So now I’m fitting the panels and framework together, and then I’ll get to work on the hatch cover.
    roughed in.JPG
    roughted further in.JPG
     
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  29. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 40,276

    loudbang
    Member

    Looks ok. You have a lot of skills just to get the whole car done this nice. :)
     
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  30. ClarkH
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 1,412

    ClarkH
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Well, more to report. And since like most of us I’m going to have time on my hands in the coming weeks, I’ll try to keep the updates coming. We all need something to occupy our minds

    With no stores or salvage yards at hand, I'm forced to be little more creative with materials, and a little more accepting of good enough. I guess that’s hot-rodding.

    I got my firewall fully roughed in and started work on the cover panel. Some of the fastener heads are mismatched because I’m using what stock I have squirreled away in my old Equipto boxes; least of my worries, as fasteners can be changed later.
    firewall-rough-cover.JPG
    firewall-rough-hatch.JPG

    I lined the panel with rubber trim to cover the sharp edge and reduce rattles. Used a section of rubber trim with an internal band of metal clip that I turned up in a box of random estate sale stuff from years ago.
    firewall-hatch-perimiter.JPG

    Then I discovered the discreet little clips I had planned to use for this were too small to span the trim.
    hatch-small-latch.JPG

    I thought on this for a bit, and conjured up a dim memory of something, somewhere, that might do the job. This led to couple hours sifting through my swap meet boxes. (Pause for a sigh or two—tomorrow would have been Portland set-up day.) Eventually I found them—a set of stainless hasps that I picked up in a building salvage yard a while ago and, thankfully, nobody wanted to buy at the last two meets.
    hatch-big-latch.JPG

    Now I’ll be the first to admit, these don’t look period at all. On the plus side, they will be hidden behind the seat, and they are adjustable, which will make fitting a lot easier. And their primary feature is that I already had them.

    So, the next thing to do was make some catches for these to latch into. I figure I’d use my torch and pliers to make some from flat stock. Heavy duty overkill, I suppose, but easy to do. Fortunately, when I saw the shutdown coming, I exchanged my oxy/acc and mig shielding bottles so I wouldn’t be caught short. Unfortunately, I now discovered they gave me an empty acc bottle! :(

    Time to root around again. An hour’s search turned up these extra hooks from our old kitchen pot rack.
    pot-hooks.JPG

    Converting these into hasp catches took less time than I’d spent searching for them. OK, not as beefy as what I’d imagined, but certainly cleaner than what I would have made from flat stock. And shiny, too.
    finished-hooks.JPG

    And now everything is assembled. Soon as the temperatures come up, I’ll disassemble and paint.
    hatch-done.JPG

    The cover is 20 gauge and kind of floppy. I figure I can roll a couple of beads into it later (when I have access to a bead roller). Again, the tension on those latches is adjustable, so I can easily accommodate any minor distortion the beads introduce.

    Oh, and just to close the loop, turns out welding supply is an essential service. So I was able to return the dud they’d given me and get a full bottle. We maintained proper social distance throughout—they didn't even want to look at (let alone touch) the paperwork I'd brought. Weird times.
     
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2020

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