Started building my little T frame today. I just realized I think I made a mistake. I narrowed the reproduction A crossmember to fit between the two 2”x4”x.120” side rails and tacked it in, intended to tack the other side once I get another set of jack stands. I don’t have a frame table so it’s easier to get it up off the floor where it’s easy to read the angle finder because that what I’m nearly constantly doing. Should I toss this and order another 2”x4” and reproduction A crossmember to tuck up into the rail? I want it to be safe as possible. And not fail. btw, those tacks are just temporary mig tacks, finish welding will be done with Lincoln tombstone and good old 6011 electrodes.
I definitely went off half cocked when I started this. I’ll throw a set together tomorrow with some of this steel.
If you are a good welder you shouldn't have any problems, I would probably put small gussets on the back of the cross member to frame rails just to add strength. Agree with above, do it on saw horses. Look up my thread on building a model A frame and it will show you how to square and level your frame rails with a couple saw horses and yard sticks.
My thoughts exactly, but make your sawhorses out of 8 foot 2X6, their length will help to control the frame, its worked for me in the past. Clamp the steel down and go crazy, you'll like the results.
What could I expect it to run to get someone with a frame table to build it? When I gotta go back to work January 2 and I’ll be back to working 72 hour weeks. Probably won’t be able to get the steel til January 2. Either have time or money but never both it seems.
I'm sure everybody has their own way of doing things; but I have always built both main rails first, then set them up with the cross-members. Seems to me doing it that way, you will be sure the whole frame is square and straight. Building it piecemeal could result in compounding any errors when it is all brought together. As mentioned 2"x 3" is more "T" sized and 3/16" is better than 10 ga. 2"x 4" 10 ga is more suited for an "A" frame; but even then then the rails are tapered down to about 3" at the front, like a real "A" frame. With care it is not too tough to build a decent tube frame with the need for a frame table. If you decide you can't do it yourself; take a good look and see if you can use any of the standard frames from the various builders; be money ahead than having a frame "custom" built.
I want the car to sit very low. Nobody seems to have an off he shelf frame that will fit under a T body or doesn’t sit like a hay wagon. I had been looking for probably 2 years. 3/16” weighs a fair bit more and isn’t much stouter in a 2”x3” vs .120” 2”x4”. My pickup frame is about 1/8” stamped c channel. I know of guys pushing that a hell of a lot harder than I will be this T. 2x3 looks about like toothpicks holding it together IMO a 2x4 tapering down is much nicer.
Here its model A but the procedure is the Same. Except the T will be easier. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/no-frame-build-my-own-model-a.1076697/
I found it last night but my eyes were too tired to see how you did your crossmember and other areas. I am awake now and a good bit less worried now. When I cap the end of the frame I can make it so that it also is lapped over the front of the crossmember and makes it double wall, tying it to the other side of the rail as well. Thanks. About to head to town and see if anyone is open that has steel.
Wasn't Anderson selling his T project already welded up? Look up his threads and ads and see what he had. Even if it's already sold it should give you some good ideas.
Measure and re measure. Tack weld and remeasure the diagonals. Weld a little more and recheck. Have some one help measure. The same person hold the same end of the tape. Set a reasonable tolerance and STICK to it.
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