I recently purchased a 427FE Fairlane (1964) and had it shipped down under, it's damn HOT here now and not yet even summer with bush fires all over the country. The car initially ran HOT thanks to a stuck thermostat (160°), then the recovery tank split on the seam. After a recent tune up it runs pretty strong however when in traffic or stopped the temp. gauge quickly creeps up over 180 then to 200. Once you move again airflow drops the temp. down btwn. 160-180. Cooling is via a 3-row Galaxie cross-flow radiator and an OEM 7 blade mechanical fan. The car and engine is a fresh US build, not by me and something I've never done before. The car has a teardrop hood which allows some hot air to escape. The FE (Top oiler) is no slouch with 2x4's, a decent cam and 2" primary pipes crammed into the smaller SBF engine bay. I'll be modifying the fender aprons as soon as possible as per OEM Thunderbolts to generate air flow and allow all that hot air to escape. All I need to do is reroute the brake lines and junction block, no big deal. Anyone got any other thoughts as I'm contemplating removing the radiator to have it checked. I've even thought that the block might be partially grout filled to the bottom of the core plugs? Some suggest that I should add electric thermo fans, NOT an option. I'd rather add a period correct fan shroud and clutch fan if I can locate them for a reasonable price as they need to be shipped here, NOT cheap.
Overheating standing still = not enough air flow through the radiator from the fan. Add a shroud to force all the air that the fan moves to go through the entire radiator core, and you'll probably see a nice change. (Don't know how your current setup looks, but it sounds like you have no shroud.)
I currently don't have a shroud, anyone have a spare to suit a Galaxie crossflow radiator. I see clutch fans and fan blades every now and again on that site. A shroud was on my list! Nothing available down here to suit and I don't want to adapt a later shroud to make it fit. I might need swap out the radiator cap? Sorry, should have posted this before.
It's a new cast iron unit weighing a ton like the heads! At least it doesn't have a cast iron intake. Earlier on I considered swapping it out for an aluminum one, local radiator shop wanted me to upgrade to an aluminum raditor however it's staying copper.
You have all the key pieces in place, especially the surge tank and the little water pump bypass hose. I may catch hell for it, but in my Ford FE motors, I'd leave the t-stat out in warmer months. I use a 180* one for general driving around. A shroud may help, you could build a quick-n-dirty one out of aluminum chimney flashing to test the theory. We ran those in the stock cars, in a crash it wouldn't damage the radiator.
Another thought was punching the centre out of the thermostat and leaving the outside ring there. Thermostat currently has 2 x 1/8" holes drilled to allow some initial flow until it opens. In saying that it doesn't get that cold where I live compared to over there or other places out west or down south and definitely NO white stuff. Heck I drive my 35 Chebby phaeton with no heater or side curtains at night in winter wearing a jacket and beanie, a tad cool though.
Shroud for sure and your slow/stop cooling will be fine. Yes, the extra exit holes will help too and are likely a fitting change but the shroud will do the most. I agree, make one til ya find one.
At 200 the temp is not that scary you might look into something like these.https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Domi...tent=Dominator Top SKUs (Google) (Jan10_2019)
just what I was going to say. As long as it still runs ok, you have nothing to worry about, yet. When it won't stay below 230, you're going to have to do something.
Almost every FE I owned ran somewhat hot after warm up. In my 64 I added a shroud and the fiber seal under the radiator to crossmember and that cooled it down.
Yes, full blade surround style Yes Yes! does not help cooling system No - get a good Robert Shaw thermostat
If you have room for fan clutch Hayden #2765 is the one you want. It's the narrowest and has the same bolt circle as original. I use the same one in a stroker 460. Original application I think is a mid-80's Jaguar xj-6.
Went to a mopar radiator for my FE's issues....my radiator guy kept cussing those small tubes FoMoCo ran in their radiators.....never a problem since.....sure there is an alternative radiator out there......the tubes flow water....
It slowly creeps up to 200, stuck in traffic, and goes back down when moving again, and you are worried about- what? Drive it!
Still playing with the FE and have sourced an OEM 2-piece steel 63 Galaxie fan shroud to use. Would anyone have a heavy duty {AC} 7-blade clutch fan to suit, I feel that with the shroud it should draw sufficient air through the core to keep things cool. Would a FE powered 63/4 Thunderbird clutch fan be the same as a Galaxie and fit in the shroud?
Shroud for sure. Back in the 70's I had a 428 mustang that was real bad in traffic. Stop and go in hot weather it would always overheat. Ok on the road. Not enough radiator for all that cast iron and low air flow across it was my problem I think. I wonder if a electric pusher fan in front of the radiator that you could switch on in traffic might help. B
Hi mgt, I spent a long time experimenting with mechanical fan setups to cool the 390 I built for my 59 ranch wagon. I had no cooling trouble while cruising but it didn't like idling or traffic. Tried every possible combination of radiator, fan size/design, shroud design, water pump pulley diameter, water pump bypass hose+/-, thermostat opening temp, thermostats drilled for extra flow, front panel air flow holes, idle speed, ignition advance, etc etc. My findings - A mechanical fan will not pull enough air through a 3 core brass copper radiator at idle to keep cool. The core is too dense which restricts air flow. A mechanical fan will pull enough air through a 2 core aluminium radiator as they have larger tubes with bigger air gaps between them. Changing to an aluminium radiator did solve my airflow problem with the mechanical fan. I have now gone back to the 3 core brass copper radiator due to unrepairable damage to the aluminium one. To solve the airflow problem I finally have an FG Falcon thermo fan assembly plus a 170F thermostat, a 185-175F thermo fan switch, a 100amp alternator and the water pump bypass hose. An easy fit as the FG shroud was close to my radiator core size. Downside- some temperature fluctuation at idle due to the thermo fan cycling. Upsides- no overheating idling or in traffic, less parasitic power loss as it doesn't come on while driving, the black radiator/shroud looks better than the silver aluminium radiator/shroud in the old wagon, I can get the radiator core repaired if required, and a replacement thermo is about $150 on ebay. These findings may only be relevant for our climate. I hope it saves you some time and $$.
My wife has a OT vehicle. I runs at 200 degrees no matter how hot or cold. No matter if its idling on a hot day or moving always 200 degrees. And it has way over 200,000 mlies. The electric fan on it works great. You could install a electric fan ahead of the radiator to turn on when setting still in the heat. or simply remove the hood so the trapped heat can escape. I had a farm tractor that would get too hot if it was worked hard on a hot day. Removed the hood and that let the engine heat escape and it was Ok.
I used to think that a cooler running engine would last longer. Ran 160 degree thermostats. To cold isn't great. It lets sludge accumulate. contributes to poor combustion and fuel economy. Don't help anything. 195 is about right for a stock production engine. I think as long as you don't boil the antifreeze its Ok.
Two things one is free and the other will cost you a little bit. First you may want to check that your radiator is sealed well to the core support so that any air coming in has to pass through the radiator and not around it. The second thing is going to cost you. I use a flow-cooler pump whenever I can they are a little pricey (probably 200 American for your FE), I swear by them and they do all that they claim.
I’m also an FE owner and have fought cooling issues at low speed/stopped in traffic. The answers are above. 200 isn’t a big deal, 230 and not cooling is a big deal. Yes grab a new cap, they are cheap. A shroud will help the mechanical fan, but again 200 is fine as long as it cools again when you’re moving. I currently run a high output electric fan in a shroud because I put a thicker radiator in that doesn’t allow room for the fan. Great looking ride and I hope you enjoy it!
Put the shroud on with your current fan. See if the temperature changes. I never like to change two things at once while chasing a problem. I always do only one thing , then check, that way you know if it helps or hurts! Just my way. Bones
My 61 Starliner (406, 3row alum rad, 5 blade fan) runs near 200 in the summer without over heating here in Az. However it did vaporlock on me one time on a 108* afternoon. Picked up a clutch fan and 6 blade fan for it and I've been looking for fan shroud for it but factory ones are a bit pricy.
While you're doing all this ....might as well get a hot plate and pan of boiling water, (assuming you are near sea level) a rolling boil, should show 212F on your gauge if you drop the thermoprobe end in there.
Can you use a bigger mechanical fan? I purchased a 17" steel blade fan like this from summit and it keeps my sedan cool, even in bumper to bumper traffic. HRP
Are you running sae50? I had a 66 galaxies ragtop that ran like you describe, but then puke out the front passage on a flat area of the water pump at times, then still run great....
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