Hey all. I've been chasing an overheating issue on my '53 Chrysler Wagon for a while. It boiled over twice this year in the spring. I went through everything I could think of but it still acts like it's running hot in spite of my efforts. Here's the list of what I've got and what I've done. Stock Mopar 360 with and Edelbrock 4bbl intake and Edelbrock 650 Carb. Compression 110-120 across all 8 cylinders Electronic ignition. Timing is stock (exact # escapes me right this second) Replaced the stock radiator with a new Aluminum unit. Fabbed a fan shroud and installed a SPAL electric fan on a thermal switch. Replaced the stock mechanical fan. Replaced mechanical fuel pump which was leaking at the crimp point causing the engine to run lean. Rebuilt the carb using parts from Mike's Carburetor. I didn't change the jetting or float heights. Once the engine is up to temp it runs great but "feels" too hot as it's running. Trying to describe it is kinda tough but the radiant heat from the engine bay feels like its above normal and it has that "hot smell" of extra warm oil and fluids, if that makes sense. Neither of these things happened prior to the overheating episodes. It also boils the fuel out of the carb faster than it used to. I have a 1" phenolic spacer which I've yet to install but that seems like a band-aid for something that I'm missing. If there's anything I've missed or should take an extra look at, please chime in. I took it for a short drive over the weekend and remember how much I love cruising her. Thanks all, NAES
As mentioned already, you need to find out actually how hot it’s running and when it’s doing it. As for “Stock” timing, you also need to find out what the initial timing is when it’s running, total timing and when it’s getting to that number from mechanical advancing and vacuum advance and it’s source, ported or manifold. Timing has a big affect on operating temps. “Stock” timing many times isn’t ideal, especially when the engine has been modified.
In addition to the great suggestions above, post a few pictures of the engine bay, from a few different angles, so we can see what it looks like. What might be "normal" to you, might be an obvious problem to someone else.
Ok guys thank you! I have a little homework to do as well as another "must have" tool to buy. I'll have some more info for you this week. NAES Sent from my SM-N910V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Good point and thanks for the reminder. I put a new water pump in it when I built the car about 10 years ago. I ran regular tap water for most of its life and definitely saw cruddy buildup when I did the rad swap. I scrubbed the water passages with one of those long flexible pipe cleaner looking tools and used CLR until it was as good as I could get it. Then cycled 50% vinegar and 50% distilled water through several heat cycles and drained it. I did this routine 3 times with the final one coming out clear and not cruddy anymore. Currently I'm using proper antifreeze and distilled water. It seems to pump water out just fine but since I never physically looked at the water pump I've wondered if there was crud built up that I couldn't remove with just chemicals. NAES
The comments about temp gauge are a great idea. I use a "spal" electric fan on 1 of my vehicles, my race truck uses another brand of electric fan, and 2 other vehicles I own use electric fans. I have put brand new temp sensors in to change the temp the engine runs at occasionally, and when I've had overheating problems, and I have gotten SEVERAL brand new bad sensing units. You really need a gauge or thermometer to ck it out before going all over Sent from my Moto Z (2) using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
What is your thermostat size. I had one with a 180° removed and installed a 160° and ran perfect after.
Anything ran without antifreeze - or coolant, i.e. water only is going to have lots of sediment and rust scale in the water jackets unless inhibitors were used. There's yer problem.
An infrared laser thermometer is a great diagnostic tool. Harbor Freight for $26.99, less if you have a sale coupon. https://www.harborfreight.com/121-Infrared-Laser-Thermometer-63985.html You can quickly take the temperature of both sides (i.e. engine & radiator sides) of the thermostat, temp at the top and bottom of the radiator. That gives you some (almost) accurate temperatures to use in troubleshooting the cooling system.
^^^^ After I remembered I had one it answered a lot of my questions quickly while checking out cooling issues on my 1960 Massey 3165. Temps on both sides of the thermostat in particular, can see the housing and mounting bolts but the loader frame makes them hard to get to. Modern tech saved a lot of traditional time and skunned knuckles. Ed
OK so an infrared thermometer is on the Xmas list from Wifey and I'll be able to test engine temps soon enough. In the meantime I checked the timing. 10* at 700 rpm 34* at 3500 rpm Coolant was about a quart low which I topped off. Here's a few pics of the engine compartment. Sent from my SM-N910V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I just pulled a 360 out of my truck that I couldnt get to run cool. I went through the cleaning, running stuff through it until it came out clean, and it still ran warm. I put a 340 in and it never even gets close to warm. I believe that there was a lot of crud in the block that just wasn't letting it cool the way it should. Tony
The first thing I see is the oil cooler blocking the radiator. Air flow WILL go around this and not through the radiator. I think a fan for the cooler would be a good start.
Thats my trans cooler but I get what you're saying. The fan pulls enough air to keep a sheet of paper stuck to the rad or trans cooler FWIW. I think there's room for one of those log style heat sink units instead if you think thats a better option. Sent from my SM-N910V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
As posted above, a temp gauge will let you know what is really going on. As far as a transmission cooler goes, wait until you knw what the temps the engine is actually seeing first. The fact that the trans cooler is located where it is will IMO affect the ability of the radiator to do it's job, but it might not be the cause of any overheating.
As said earlier the trans cooler is too big. In my overheating problems with my convertible, my trans cooler was about as big as yours. The fan would suck a piece of paper to the radiator, but as soon as I installed a smaller cooler, and moved it from in front of the radiator, my cooling problems were gone. Put a smaller cooler on it and in a different place, I’m sure your problems will go away.
The heater core looks fairly high up in the cooling system. Any chance that air is getting trapped there when you're filling the radiator? Looks like it would be fairly easy to shunt the heater hoses together to bypass the heater core and see if that made any difference.
Is the temperature fitting in the manifold for the fan? What temperature is it supposed to come on and off? There's a plug in the other side that would be a good spot for a temperature gauge. Sent from my SM-G973U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Ok so a smaller cooler sounds like the way to go. I'll start looking for one. What do you guys think, maybe 1/2 the size I'm currently running? Infrared temp gauge is on the way. Looking forward to getting some readings and reporting back. I never even considered an intake manifold mounted temp gauge. Great idea! The electric fan switch is threaded into the intake manifold. It comes on at 175* or 180*. I've replaced it twice already due to failures so I don't remember the exact temp. I thought about bypassing the heater core. I don't use the heater so looping it would be a fairly simple job. Thanks again aeveryone! Your input is invaluable! NAES Sent from my SM-N910V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Take the cooler off, connect the lines together and take it for a drive. If cools better then that's the problem. I dont think it is the problem. It's a simple finned cooler that can pass a lot of air through and certainly enough while your driving.
Make sure you have the correct water pump for the belt system you are using. A surpetine pump runs backwards to a V belt pump. Also, how many miles on the timing chain? if worn bad enough it can retard the cam. And if you have a vacuum advance, make sure it's working
I would go about half that size, that’s what I did on mine. You don’t need that big of a transmission cooler. And yes it will make a difference, everything in front of the radiator will stop airflow to some extent.
I guess I didn't look that close at the picture of the trans cooler. It looks like something you might want if you were towing a big Airstream trailer cross-country. But it does appear to cover nearly half the surface area of the radiator. There seems to be enough room up front there to maybe even mount the cooler at a 30 or 45 degree angle from the core support and maybe pick up some air flow between the cooler and the radiator.
The Jalopy Journal
