Here ya go maybe this will help? Zoomed in roadster shots. Sent from my SM-G977U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Just bolt the bar down tight, take your torch and heat it on both sides of the headlight mount seat, stick a bar in the hole, and twist as needed; repeat on the other side.
that’s exactly my plan. Just wanted to try it on backwards to see if it was any closer since I already had it apart
Can't you heat it bend the mount up? Is that a cast piece? Isn't that what was used to make the original mounts for fenderles rods? I think we cut off each side bolted them to the frame horns heated them and bent the crap out of them till they pointed where we wanted. Maybe some bars were cast and some were forged.
“The light bar is on backwards to see if by some chance it would line up better and require less bending, my plan is to bolt it to the car, heat the ends and put a bar threw the mounting cups and twist it into the correct placement”
... interesting the dual tank fill discussion. Make sure to visit some 4wd forums, also the square body forums. Is Hitchhiker in aviation ? I can't remember ... but a HAMB'r versed in aviation would be fun to talk to. Planes have a fuel balance system for obvious reasons. May make better sense to talk to such a hot rod HAMB'r. Square body trucks used to have a top retrofit tube to get around the dual fill dilemma from factory. Seem to remember ball check valves on vents, & lower transfer tubes. If you're a trucker, the DOT made lower transfer tubes illegal, hence no more top fill retro kits sold ... doesn't mean you cant build your own. Safely, of course. Also ... some 4wd guys on expedition tours. Do as you discuss, & fit two fill tubes, with two fuel caps ... in their original fuel door location. Anyhoo' ... back to reading. Fun follow.
Of all the ideas I like the idea of putting a Y under the stock cap in the cowl the best after just having apron fillers. I measured how far the nozzle actually goes into the fill tube on my late model and it’s less than 3 inches. So I can easily get that depth with the side fill route it’s just seeing how slow you have to fill it with the 90 deg turn so soon after. The tanks that are newer and ment for side fill you basically stick the nozzle straight into the tank. figuring the little 4 banger and complete lack of weight in this car I think it should get good mpg and it’ll only be slightly annoying on road trips that I need to fill it slower. but figuring you’ve been in a model A going 80 mph for 300 miles you’ll probably be do for a walk around and stretch anyhow.
Well, it’s ready to go back in the corner tonight after work. snows on its way and mama needs her parking spot back. To be honest I’m ready to have my stuff back where it belongs and to finish up polishing on the 46 so it’s good timing when I get back to it the next item in the list is building the fire wall/ cowl/ brake master bracing. That will require fine tuning the steering box bracket but after it’s done I can bolt the brake and clutch pedals to the firewall and move into making the dash flush and popping it full of holes for the gauges. my little mini me is all about wrenching on mamas hot rod and working on projects together so I’m hoping in the coming crazy year that we can get some garage time in together. anyhow some photos. I traced The profile of the stock door sills and made note of lose measurements and positioning.
Phone glitched so the photos came out jumbled. You get the jist. added some moving blankets to the back seat springs, and yes I spelt model wrong on the cardboard lol
Having to fill one tank slowly so as to not have gas run out all over the apron and running board when it’s full and the turn the car around do it all over again with the other tank. They work but not the best solution in my opinion.
Fair enough. Doesn’t seem like there are many choices in these cars that don’t feel compromised in one way or another
I agree. 32 tank looks like a hemorrhoid hanging off the back and every other option puts the fuel inside the cabin with you and your family. As annoying as saddle tanks will be they are your safest bet. Sent from my SM-G977U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Brace that cowl/dash really good or you will be chasing cowl shake. The gas tank is a really strong unit until you cut it up for gages or a new dash. You probably new that, just saying.
Here is how we braced the cowl on a '29. Bent a piece of tube to follow the lower contour of the dash, added a tube to the back upper edge of the firewall, tied them together at the steering drop, and gusseted the corners. Made for a solid cowl.
My sedan has zero cowl shake. My roadster has a little. The top keeps it pretty stiff. I wouldn't worry about it in a closed car. Sent from my SM-G977U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
@RICH B how is it attached to the firewall? Is the brake master bracket just bolted to/threw it? @Inked Monkey im going to brace it for the pedals but keep hearing “cowl shake” and wondering how exactly people are bracing for that. I left a lot of the tank in place and I’m going to brace the firewall and cowl sides together for the pedals so I think I’ll be ok. I mainly asked to see for the sake of conversation
On this '29 with the 90 degree master; the pedal box was welded into the tube structure and further braced to the tube behind the dash; this stiffened up the pedal box and upper column mount. When we mount Ansen style hanging pedals, like yours; we weld a minimum 3/16" plate to the inside of the firewall to spread the load. We also tie the bottom of the dash at the column back to the pedal mount with flat bars. This helps support both the column and the pedal, keeping flex to the minimum.
With tubing running across the fire wall from side to side how are you attaching it to the car? The tube itself
This is something I wanted to do, too. I've heard of folks cracking firewalls after a while. Plus, I don't want flex in a critical spot. Have you ever done it without? For now, my car has the hanging pedals tied into the dash bar, so really they can't go forward in theory... but I keep pushing to have a piece of thin plate (as I've been recommended to...)
This is what I have in mind right now. Second photo shows the pedal assembly that is shown in green in the first photo. trying to decide how to attach it to the cowl sides and fire wall because it’s so thin I don’t want to warp the shit out of it welding it maube some vertical legs in the corners that weld onto the cowl feet? t
I would reinforce the firewall for the pedals but I didnt have any cowl shake in that car. When I finish the roadsters body work I will tray and stop its cowl shake though. Sent from my SM-G977U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Have you clamped the pedal assembly in place to determine it will be that high? My kid had a channeled roadster where the pedals were up in the tank part of the firewall; but seems to me they might be lower on a regular body. If they end up high like your drawing, just skip weld the cross tube to the firewall; but drop the tubes to door posts below it to allow access to bolts that hold sides of the ex-tank to the side panels. You can't weld to the front of the door posts due to the cowl sides bolting in; use a flat plate from the rear side of the door post to tie to that tube. Don't block in any of the bolts that hold the hinge blocks to the outside of the door post. Can't see why you would need any tubes going downward. The ribs where the master cylinder bolts on are fun; but a little heat along with some hammer and dolly work will shrink them out.
@RICH B fantastic advice. and no I’m not sure if they will land on the upper or lower firewall. I’ve mocked up it a dozen times but until now havnt had enough floor to really sit in the car and try them out. @Austin kays got me some “blood blister” strong magnets that I can hold the assembly to the fire wall with to test it out. I was also considering sticking a tennis ball when the push rods will go to get the pedals up to where they would actually be. got the car back into its corner last night so once the garage is back sorted I’ll start mocking that up. Got all the cars back where they belong and the wife’s daily inside. Shut the garage doors 4 minutes after it had started snowing early this morning. Have almost 6 inch's now! Couldn’t have timed that any closer If I wanted to! On that note I moved the car a considerable distance backwards last night pushing on the B pillar with a few fingers of my other hand on the steering wheel and it blew my mind how easy it is to steer. Felt like power steering!
Watched an @IronTrap video of them pulling a 30/1 firewall and had a conversation with @-Brent- and have got some ideas brewing. Thanks to very one whos weighed in with an idea or thought But back to headlights I turned the bar around and measured for you all the back side of the retainer ring where it’s a nice flat source measures 17 deg off level. could be wrong but seems like these king bees are pointing to far down. oh, and I checked both, they are at the exact same angle. Just looks like ones better than the other in the photo. They’re the same
Tim, Notice that the mounting bolts are located near the bottom of the light bucket. This would work fine on a 4WD light bar. The stock lights have the bolts further up the back of the buckets so they work with the cups in the stock bar. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
The Jalopy Journal
