Anyone know of a better version of this bracket? I’ve got a project in the planning stages that will use this type of bracket. I’m hoping to find something better. Pics of homemade parts would be great also. Thanks
If you have bolt holes in the ends of the heads, then you can use the 1969-72ish truck bracket. If no holes, then you have to do something else...see what Alan Grove is making these days, perhaps? That bracket you have, does really suck...
The project is the ole 57 vette with old heads with no holes, I don’t think the lower mount would work. I’m just looking for something more sturdy and maybe better looking. That is the only bracket I’ve seen for that application I was just hoping for something “nicer”
Check the Welder Series catalog- pretty sure they have an alternator bracket for short or long pump with early heads Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I made this flat bracket and attached the regular mount on top of it due to the size of the tubes , works pretty good , not very pretty though
Scotty I just couldn't find anything I liked so I came up with my own lashup. This is on my roadster.
Here's this but it dosen't give much belt wrap on the water pump. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Smal...cket-Plain,38957.html?OriginalQuery=916-67906
Could not find a photo of what I've seen custom built a few times so I'll just describe what it was. Steel (Z shape, 2 vertical 1 horizontal) cut (lower vertical of Z shape) to exact shape of header flange then welded to header flange so it's not removable just like a stock exhaust manifold. Then the only part that is bolted on is...
I have used Alan Grove stuff on several builds and it is good stuff. Quality made and fits perfect. reasonable prices.
I have used that or a similar bracket by simply adding a support from the bracket to the upper water pump bolt, a stud makes it removable without disturbing the water pump bolt itself. Low budget but it works.
The Alan Grove bracket I used has a bracket that goes to the upper bolt on the water pump. It also connects to the two outward intake bolts. The stud is a good idea. I have had to remove it a few times and no leaks at the pump but I like the idea of a stud and separate nut.
Mounts to front intake bolt, top water pump bolt. Pass side. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You would have to come up with a pivot hold down; this is how it’s set up on my ‘37. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I guess i should have been more clear. I want to leave the alt. in the same location i just want a better bracket . The Alan Grove bracket may be the ticket. Thanks.
I used the same bracket as yours, @scotty t , but drilled a row of "lightening holes" in it and in the top hockey-stick-shaped bracket, then used a dremmel & files to amooth them out, and finally had them and a few other parts power-coated. Hope this helps.
The adjustment on that setup doesn't do much, eh? The belt length hardly changes as you move the alternator through it's arc, since the pivot is between the alternator pulley, and the other two pulleys.
Not my design, but no! Tall valve covers are out of the question as well. Not ideal, but it works. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I plagiarized Alan Groves design and made my own, probably not the same quality but good enough for the guy using it. The pictures show it installed , then after I decided to powder coat it along with some other pieces I made, I am a CASO (cheap assed Studebaker owner
A couple of pics of mine made for a Suzuki Samarai alternater. I added more holes front and back later.
Thanks for the replies but I’m just looking for a higher quality version of the bracket in the first post.
The bracket in the first post is a lousy design. The other brackets we've shown you are higher quality setups, to replace it.
The Jalopy Journal
