Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical 1959 Chevy Truck Suspension, Axle and Brake Project

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 59Apachegail, Dec 6, 2018.

  1. brigrat
    Joined: Nov 9, 2007
    Posts: 5,615

    brigrat
    Member
    from Wa.St.

    Where's their safety glasses??????????????????smileyface
     
    59Apachegail likes this.
  2. 59Apachegail
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,504

    59Apachegail
    Member
    from New York

    oops!! good thing I didn't have the plasma cutter out. :)
     
  3. 59Apachegail
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,504

    59Apachegail
    Member
    from New York

    I got my 7" wheel with an other 235/70/15 mounted. Front wheel well didn't fill up as nicely as the rear but it looks a lot better.

    trailer side.jpg
    raidal side.jpg
    trailer front.jpg
    radial front.jpg
    Trailer bottom.jpg
    radial bottom.jpg
    A few before and after, I am pretty happy.
     
    leon bee and swade41 like this.
  4. 59Apachegail
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,504

    59Apachegail
    Member
    from New York

    Got one side of the axle grounded and smoothed out. Next time I'll get around to the other.
    axle cleaned.jpg

    axle smooth.jpg
    Only two gouges from when I cut. Not too deep, I think it is good.
     
    swade41 likes this.
  5. 59Apachegail
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,504

    59Apachegail
    Member
    from New York

    I am going to consider this another update since it was some progress.
    perch off.jpg
    perch cut.jpg
    axle cleaned a.jpg
    Perch #2 is off and ground smooth. I have the same gouge that I made on the other side. There was probably some angle I hit since both were cut the exact same way. A nice little weld should cover them up. Next is to clean this up to weld the new perches on
     
  6. 59Apachegail
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,504

    59Apachegail
    Member
    from New York

    I picked up a 1/2” Torque wrench to re-torque my axle to caliper bolts. I was using a 3/8” Toque wrench with a converter for 1/2” sockets and I didn’t trust the reading. I also decided to remove the neverseeze from the bolts and nuts as well. I figured the goop was messing up my readings and I didn’t want to pop a head at 60 miles an hour. I torqued the smaller bolts to 35lbs and the larger to 50lbs. I used specs found for a 60s caliper kit on a vendor site. Seems like none of the 55-59 kit documents have torque specs. After that I test fitted a rim and pulled this thing off the bench making room in the process. After all these months of looking at that thing I still can’t get over how sexy it looks.
    AA2111BD-59F2-4223-8C32-5F414FF3763F.jpeg
    41F659F9-394F-4243-AA13-E4F1235AC08B.jpeg 18CED2EE-495A-4E73-82AC-D519EA8CF1C4.jpeg 3550EF74-B3E1-4545-B2D4-21334512F28D.jpeg 1CB64628-35B5-445A-824E-2E7FC7D20731.jpeg
     
    swade41 and bobss396 like this.
  7. 59Apachegail
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,504

    59Apachegail
    Member
    from New York

    After two days of cleaning and throwing out stuff the garage has enough room for me to start axle work. Truck was shifted enough to have access on both sides.

    I started by laying the master cylinder and lines out using original reproduction stainless lines. Attempting to snake the new line from the front driver side to the master in the original configuration will be a pita. The lines look like they are in the correct shape but require more bending to get them to actually fit properly.

    For anyone doing this in the future... The combination valve outlets and the caliper hoses are smaller than the original size brake lines. The front outlets on the combination valve and the inlets for the caliper hoses require 3/8 inch -24 male tubing nuts on 3/16 tubing. The front original replacement brake line is 1/4 inch tubing - 7/16 inch - 24 male thread tubing nuts. After a trip down to the auto parts store with a line and a rubber hose I was able to figure this out. Info on the parts sites is not quite clear. I may have to use 1/4 - 3/16 adapters to get the line to fit. Since the stainless lines will need tweaking to make them fit.

    In case you are making your own lines, brake lines require steel fittings rather than brass ones. Everything I read is these brass fittings for brake lines are a no-no. Nicopp lines are pretty cheap and seem like they are easy to work with. My neighbor swears by them.

    Since I am staying manual discs for now, all research seems to point to larger lines (1/4”) for less pedal effort. This garnered from the many brake line threads on the hamb. I can go to 3/16” when I get the booster setup.

    I will want to drive between front and rear axle upgrades. At that point it will be disc/drum. This will require a different combination valve since discs require 2psi to engage and drums require 10psi to engage. I was going to run my disc/disc but was told the rear drums won’t engage due to lack of pressure. Since it will be disc/drum for a little while; I replaced a leaky rear wheel cylinder.


    ***I used the term combination valve as an interchange for proportioning valve. I have read that proportioning valve is an incorrect term so I opted for “combination”. It doesn’t matter what it is called for me. It is just easier than calling it the thing that sits under the new master cylinder to control line pressure to the discs.
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2020
  8. 59Apachegail
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,504

    59Apachegail
    Member
    from New York

    Some outside pictures showing hooped rims 7” and 8” respectively vs original size 5-1/2”. Tires are 235/70R-15 all around.

    Something I noticed when I was under it was that the tie rod ends are about 1/2” away from hitting the tires. 7” in the front and 8” in the rear is absolute max size that would fit in stock form.

    707E5E47-6350-4442-96DA-9BEFA0A2CCAA.jpeg

    A0F0F1BF-6CD9-411B-8647-0C237843533D.jpeg
     
  9. I love your truck. Are you going to leave the pipe rack on it? It looks so cool and vintage.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  10. 59Apachegail
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,504

    59Apachegail
    Member
    from New York

    Thanks Andy!
    Originally the ugly old work truck look was what drew me to it. I love the rough weathered look but I have a strong desire to make it a gentleman cruiser. If I ever do get to that point I will make it a fleetside with white accents. That may be years though.
     
    Truckdoctor Andy likes this.
  11. 59Apachegail
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,504

    59Apachegail
    Member
    from New York

    She is finally up in the air.
    38935C7E-ADF5-4039-9AAA-574C24FC0527.jpeg
    It looks pretty sturdy on the 12 ton jack stands and the helper 3 tons up front. However I am still waiting on a second set of 12 ton to replace the 3s. Rather be safe than sorry here. I never noticed the passenger side upper shock mount was repaired at some point. I could leave well enough alone but why not do everything the right way. 274FCE9E-F11E-407B-A6D1-2305220FDBE6.jpeg
    Oil soaking on the nuts for now. More when the next set of jack stands come in.
     
  12. 59Apachegail
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,504

    59Apachegail
    Member
    from New York

    Shocks and mounts off a lot less eventful than expected. A little oil and they squeaked off.
    DFFA21F0-556F-4F63-B261-1407E44A46E4.jpeg 2C81482E-0DDE-46DB-A90D-5413C621A2D6.jpeg
    Pass side shock mount is not my favorite so I am looking for an original replacement.
     
    swade41 likes this.
  13. 59Apachegail
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,504

    59Apachegail
    Member
    from New York

    Draglink popped off with a little oil and my $14 tool from napa. 79242A09-AD2C-4C0B-829F-23838C5D7ECC.jpeg F522CCCB-0A1D-4C4B-876F-F9CBD32A2BCB.jpeg 4553EC7D-092E-4E33-B088-F81A0FB5743A.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2019
    swade41 likes this.
  14. 59Apachegail
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,504

    59Apachegail
    Member
    from New York

    Rear spring bolts were packed hard with grease and they gave me fits. I scraped as much as possible then oiled. After a ton of banging the driver side nut broke free. Passenger side nut started to strip. It might need to be cut.
    27F2E770-06E0-4194-9FA6-2EF3A80EE57A.jpeg 6695EEEA-5B26-4EFE-9181-577CA525E752.jpeg

    111F2590-5E06-433E-9478-F5C38B0E4B3F.jpeg
    3097BBC0-65C0-48B7-8B4E-CDEA6519088F.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2019
    swade41 likes this.
  15. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 13,174

    Budget36
    Member

    Who's disc brake kit did you use. I re-read through and didn't see mention of it.

    Also, it's attention to detail (like fixing the shock mount) that gives you a piece of mind traveling down the road. You can never be to anal about fixing stuff;)
     
    Truckdoctor Andy likes this.
  16. If you're pulling the springs the rear forward cross bolt wants to hit the step before coming out enough to get the spring out, I had to jack the front of my bed up to get those bolts out.
     
  17. 59Apachegail
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,504

    59Apachegail
    Member
    from New York

    Thanks Budget36,

    I got the bulk of brake stuff from Performance online. I liked the fact that they had powder coated calipers with the 6 lug conversion. So far the front kit dry fitted well and they have been very helpful with the occasional questions. Details have been keeping me very busy, hopefully when this truck is done I will be doing long trips with it.
     
    Budget36 likes this.
  18. 59Apachegail
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,504

    59Apachegail
    Member
    from New York

    Thanks Swade41,

    Can you tell me if the front and rear mounts through the frame on the front springs need to be un-screwed or do the have to be pounded out? Passenger side is fighting hard and I am tempted just to start cutting it out with a cut off wheel. But I am concerned if it screws in I’ll make more work trying to speed the process.

    Thank you
     
  19. Jay59chevy
    Joined: Dec 10, 2019
    Posts: 28

    Jay59chevy

    I believe you have to take the zerk off for you to be able to back it out


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  20. Jay59chevy
    Joined: Dec 10, 2019
    Posts: 28

    Jay59chevy

    Are you running the frame or firewall mounted booster,?


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  21. 59Apachegail
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,504

    59Apachegail
    Member
    from New York

    Thanks jay59chevy,

    worst case I may need to cut the zerk then.
    It is going to be frame mount manual setup for now. When I convert over to an auto I will be forced to move the trans mount and upgrading to a power setup. My plan is to keep everything new hidden.
     
  22. Yes zerk comes off, then the nut on frame side of cross bolt, then there's a small wedge bolt running parallel to the frame on the outside side of spring eye that comes out, there's a flat on that cross bolt that runs through the spring eye, the wedge bolt goes against that flat and stops the cross bolt from rotating and coming out.
    When that wedge bolt is out then you just tap the cross bolt out, heat will help get that zerk fitting out, once cross bolt is out you can put some heat on it too and the old grease will shoot out of it to make way for new grease.
     
    59Apachegail likes this.
  23. I went back to my X57 build thread and snagged this photo, I put a red dot in the hole the wedge bolt goes into and a red arrow where the wedge bolt rides on the cross bolt.
    20191212_170425.jpg
     
    59Apachegail likes this.
  24. The cross bolts on the front spring unscrew, you have to take the rear one out while on truck, the front you can remove shackle, take spring out then work on it away from the truck. You can double nut one end of cross bolt and use the nut to help unscrew it out.
    LMC has good photos showing parts breakdowns.
    FB_IMG_1576190496373.jpg 102_2405.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2019
  25. 59Apachegail
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,504

    59Apachegail
    Member
    from New York

    Swade41,

    Thanks for all the info, much appreciated! Hopefully I’ll have the rest of the front out beginning of next week.
     
    bobss396 and swade41 like this.
  26. 59Apachegail
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,504

    59Apachegail
    Member
    from New York

    Originally I planned to have the swap done in two days, boy was that an over estimation. I thought I was going to have front and rear axles ready at the same time but that was also an over estimation as well.

    In case anyone else is going to follow along and do the same upgrades I’ll keep this section updated as I progress

    Performance online:
    6 lug disc brake upgrade kit Front and Rear with powder coated calipers and rubber lines
    Powder coated tie rod
    Powder coated Front and rear sway bar kit
    GM prop valve kit Disc/Drum
    Prop valve bleeder tool
    1” dual pot master

    Classicparts: (try finding alternates if you can, their tech support sucks and so far everyone on the phone but sales is rude)
    Front shackles (came powder coated)
    Front spring rear bolt
    Roller bearing upgrade kit
    Original style Stainless Brake lines
    Tie rod ends (came powder coated - however I had to clean the threads out because they were full of some yellow pollen looking stuff)
    King pin kit
    (12) Front wheel studs 7/16-20
    Original style Lug nuts
    Master cylinder adapter kit (came powder coated)
    Brake return spring

    Posies:
    Super slide springs powder coated
    Bilstein shocks F4-BE5-B494-TO

    Ebay:
    Made in USA zerk fittings
    Zerk fitting covers
    Timken Bearings for 12 bolt-
    (2) Head Bearing HM89449\ (1)Race HM89410
    (1) Tail Bearing M88048\(1) Race M88010
    (2) Axle Bearings 6408 (Extras)
    (2) Side Bearings LM603049\(2) Race LM603012
    (2) Moser Engineering Street Axle A30-65GMTK

    Amazon:
    Draglink Moog DS584
    Rear Diff Rubber brake hose - Raybestos BH4497

    Pep Boys:
    AGS BLF-23C 1/4 Female to 3/16 male tube adaptors
    Dorman Help! Copper gasket assortment 66222 for front brake block (needed 2 kits)
    1/4x 12” preflared brake line PA-412
    (2 packs) Dorman 10mm brake bleeder 13908 - extra because one man bleed ends up causing bleeders to get damaged.

    Summit Racing:
    Eaton Posi Differntials 19556-010
    Richmond Gear Ring and Pinion 49-0280-1
    Ratech Yolk Holder 18001
    (2) Yukon C-Clips YGA-33083
    (2) Yukon Bearing and seal kit YGA-10001
    (2) Moog U-Joint Fasteners MOG-329-10
    Yukon U-Joint YGA-42008
    (2 packs) Moser MSR-8060 rear Wheel stud 7/16-20
     
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2022
    swade41 likes this.
  27. APACHE FS
    Joined: Feb 20, 2007
    Posts: 569

    APACHE FS
    Member

    Those front shock mounts are crap, I broke one, replaced with a stock one, broke it. I just welded it up with some re enforcement from the back. I guess I will do the other side when it snaps.



    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  28. 59Apachegail
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,504

    59Apachegail
    Member
    from New York


    Hey Apache FS,

    Was it hard driving, loaded heavy or it just snapped?
     
  29. 59Apachegail
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,504

    59Apachegail
    Member
    from New York

    I soaked this sucker down with Gibbs yesterday. I started hacking away at the nut until there was about 1/16 of metal left. I decided to try the pipe wrench and she broke free to my surprise. I went back and loosened both rear bolt hangers.

    BCAFB5CD-6487-4E0D-B05D-59DF3E17A826.jpeg
    D7D0118F-DBB4-4D0D-9EF6-583E68598BE9.jpeg
    6BBE7D1A-E8D8-4595-8D7B-5D89907BACE5.jpeg
    I staked them back in temporarily to start working on the front. The front nuts broke free pretty easy.

    0F38428B-A602-4023-8E27-2A7C5A19C636.jpeg
    C4D382F3-2947-4AEE-AB1A-D0D21D8C75BA.jpeg

    Now it’s time for the dollies to drag this out.
     
    swade41 likes this.
  30. 59Apachegail
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,504

    59Apachegail
    Member
    from New York

    All freed up
    80C1894C-893A-4918-8134-143B490ED3E7.jpeg
    BE6E463F-DB67-425F-8750-D8FE6CFCDBFA.jpeg
    And after it was rolled out the front looks a little empty...
    5A539C4F-5DC3-46A2-8E85-4D9D7B8F51B3.jpeg

    At this point I cleaned up the floor and put my little 3 jack stands up front in case of an emergency. The only things left to remove are the front through frame hanger bolts and all the grease.
     
    swade41 likes this.

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.