The sound it made was chilling. Didn't see much because I dove under the saw, the only place I knew it wouldn't go because that was where it was supposed togo. The other summer college guy and I were almost the only ones there with all of our fingers.
I finally found this instillation drawing for the side tanks I have after seeing one notated as “rear fill” how crazy look at those long ass fill tubes to the rear! That’s some Smokey Yunick shit lol. I don’t think I could clear the rear axle, spring, shocks, bumper irons, exhaust running them that way but I will likely mock it up before I put any holes in the aprons. I’d use a metal pipe and not 3 feet of rubber and hang it similar to exhaust I figure. would make it easier to fill both tanks with them on the back, and it would put the filler necks up higher. But I think visually it would be clutter and if they were tucked in tight to not be distracting I’m not sure you could get to them with a trunk on the back. more stuff to mock up I guess. Don’t think I’ll run out of bench racing topic anytime soon
No one said it would be easy. Cactus hit it, Our catch phrase."It would be nice to figure out a.............".
I think it would be really hard to get them to fill evenly with a Y. Probably get one tank overflowing out the filler and not just carrying over to the other tank. but as I was typing that I realize you probably mean balance tube as a tube from tank to tank so you could fill them more or less inline with each other. It seems like it’s hard to pull off from what I read. It needs a BIG tube to make it fill at a rate that isn’t less of a pain than just filling them separately. Then you could figure out a way to hide it behind the license plate and then use a flip down plate frame like on a 68 Nova or similar. I guess with an early plates width you could put 2 behind the plate but again if you have a trunk on the back for a trip you can’t fill the tank. I fully intend this to be used for trips and there is zero luggage room inside the car with 4 people in the car. I’ll probably just run a 90 deg off the tank and out the fender and call it done. Still trying to find a way to get more “nozzle space” considered just making a purpose built funnel but don’t know where you’d stash it in/on the car that you wouldn’t end up smelling fumes . stuff to think about I suppose.
It looks it would take a very very patient man to fill those tanks thru those long horizontal tubes from the rear.
I think that’s why the website lists them as “the old style” I’ve seen a handful of these tanks with a quick 90 on the end to fill threw the apron so I know it’ll work but I have the same thoughts of making a fill up take less time than an oil change
Column is one piece! I’ll test fit it and wait for a warm afternoon to paint it once I know it fits. Fingers crossed!
Well, I skipped the column in and by golly it fits this time! Paints all fucked from being in a vice while the new end was welded on so it’ll need sanded and painted a third, forth, fifth? Time. But whatever it fits! got the side rails of the sub frame cut and bent an the cross pieces marked to length. Hopefully tomorrow we can get it all burnt in and I’ll go over what we end up doing
Well we got about half of it welded solid and half of it tacked in before we found that our welders duty cycle, our power source, and what we wanted to do with it weren’t really going to let us keep the time line we wanted. However. It’s in, it’s solid, and nothing moved. ill post later what I did, what the plan is, and what I’m going to do later. for now it’s going to get both gas tanks put on, shuffle threw my running board brackets to find the best ones, the better brookville aprons shoved on, my make shift floor boards tossed in, the seats back in and more or less mocked back up to look like something before it goes back into the corner. I think both spring pins are just off from being in the crossmembers holes so I need to figure out how I’m convincing the rest to go sides ways and pop in, and the front I’ll just take apart and move it over some. maybe I’ll do that with the rear as well, just harder to accomplish with the frame so much higher off the ground than the back. Either way I’m going to bed and I’ll post more later
A good thing about this thread is that for good or bad you take us along with you. The experience is real and when that car rolls down the street we will know what it took. Unless you're holding something back.
Years ago, the street rodder vendors (Tanks inc?) Had a kit with a "Y" pipe that filled both tanks from the original cowl tank filler cap. Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
First time this side of the car has had an apron or make shift running board on it. Looks good! the drivers side isn’t all the way in place yet but it’s close. These - I’m assuming- brookville aprons are way better than the paper thin stockers I had found. In regards to that here’s a reminder of how this is all supposed to stack up from a ford barn post I saved years ago. I apparently just drilled the holes for the steering box in the fender and didn’t slot them from what I can see with it together so now I’ve got to losen it all up to get the apron under the drivers front fender. I feel like there is a hole in the leading edge of the apron that should line up with one in the fender and then bolt to the frame together but I don’t think it’s drilled on these aprons. I just clamped it’s for now. Once it’s all 100% in the right spot I’ll drill threw the existing hole in the fender threw the apron im thrashing on getting the car “together” to shove back into the corner. When I have a spare moment that I’m not using for that I’ll post a ramble about the subframe
Alright I’ll run threw it real quick. I started with 60 inches of... I think 14 ish gauge 2x1 and 60 inches of 16 gauge 1x1.5 after mocking it up with some cut lumber and to much measuring I make two cuts in the 1x2 at the door post area so that I could slide the tubbing inside the top hat of the stock front and back sections I had trimmed clean. Looking at all my scraps I could see that the stock subframe is riveted to the B pillar area with two tabs that sit underneath and then a tab that attaches to the lower door jamb area. we sat the 2x1 on those tabs and welded them on. We then lined up everything square and marked the placement to land the three cross pieces. You can see a body mount hole in the top of the rail for each cross piece. We welded it all so the top edges are all roughly even with each other. Basically a big ladder with a taper. I did get rushed and this morning found I am off about a half inch on one of the body mount holes, so when I get back into this section for final welding I’m just going to cut it lose and move it back. No time for it now. Eventually I plan a couple outdoor summer days when the car gets blown apart and I will final weld all the frame and body pieces with it all separate so I can turn stuff upside down and get in every little cranny. the plan is to use the stock wood blocks/ mounts in the cowl and the very rear and the new sections will get shimmed to adjust the doors and etc like stock. Basically it will act like the top hat and the wood in one piece. In the rear when I do rust repair I will use a break/ shrinker- stretcher etc to make some new 16 gauge rockers that extent to the top of the 2x1 and weld it to the top of the tube much like stock. In the large gap I have at the sill plate area I’m going to trace the crusty ones I have for profile and then shape some square tubing to match the bend and weld it to the 2x1 rails. I will also add tabs to the shaped pieces at the front and back jambs to attach more or less like the stock stuff. additionally I am going to pull the old and very dry wood out of the lower B pillar and replace it with shaped tubing to fill the space with a gusseted foot that will land more or less on top of the pie cuts we make in the 1x2 box side rails. It’s more support than stock but to be honest even looking at a solid stocker I feel like I’d be nervous at 80mph. im leaving towards making the B pillar inserts with C channel and then filling it with shaped and treated wood. It will be quieter than box tube and will let me attach interior bits in a stock manor. im thinking of attaching the c channel and wood filler to the b pillar with threw bolts. I don’t see any place to weld that seems like it would be any stronger. And it’s pretty thin metal so I’d be Leary of tearing the metal next to the weld in a jarring moment or just blowing threw the metal trying to weld it solid. finaly, the last bit to add will be some feet to hold the 3/4 inch plywood floor inserts. These might be thick angle iron perches. We have yet to get that far. Figure if they are 1/4 tall then 3/4 plywood will sit flush to the top of the metal. I’d just router some little pockets to clear everything. anyhow. That’s the ramble about the subframe floor stuff.
Left finger is the hole in the fender, right finger is where the hole should be in the apron The torn holes on the old stock aprons.
Race ready! I had pulled the headlight bar to pull the fenders to maneuver the aprons into place and decided to flip it around to see if that aligned the headlights and it seems closer. From this photo. I’ll twist the lights around and see if it’s any better than the other way. The bar bolts on either way I want to say the difference is in the angle of the top of the cups. With such a big rake the way I had it even with the lights adjusted all the way up there were still pointing down. So that’s this mornings project. Trying to finish up and put it in the corner tomorrow morning. I also added “center body” to the list. I picked the body up with a floor jack when I shoved the aprons on and when I was doing the passenger side it pushed over to the drivers side an inch or so. Shouldn’t take much effort to put it back. Think I’ll line up the passenger side body mount hole that goes into the rear cross member and stick a fat bolt threw and then lift the cowl and swing it over to make the drivers side line up and the two forward cowl holes line it. it’s pretty light, I think I can lift it a little with a floor jack and just nudge it over with my foot and be golden
Tim, When I first saw this picture I thought: Wow! - improved aerodynamics! Then I thought: Why would an old barn door like a Model A sedan need improved aerodynamics? Then I thought: those lights are only going to light up where you've been and they're going to make it pretty hard to see with them shining in your eyes! You should be able to tell that I have been hit in the head a few times over the years...
Well, that’s not any better thats roughly the gap in the cup to get the headlight looking straight ahead. They look about correct when backwards but soon them around that they are pointing sky high. I think it would be less bending to turn it around and bend them the small amount up compared to the large amount down with it on this way. got the drivers side apron more or less in place, got the rear spring tie bolt shuffled over to drop up into the hole in the crossmember as it was off just a little bit. Dead lifted the body standing inside it and got the body centered and dropped a carriage bolt threw the back cross member holes and the two holes in the cowl feet put the bushing in the column, put the adapter on and bolted the wheel in the first time. The adapter needs pushed down further but it’s going to have to come off to paint the column tube anyhow so I didn’t want to make even more work for myself to remove it. zip tied it to the dash rail, cut my Mack shift floor boards down a to fit between the he needs subframe rails, the toe board it to tall so it’s hitting the fire wall. I’ll mess with that later. But it was enough that I could throw the front and back seats in. laughed at myself and grabbed some trashed pairs of pants and made myself some zip tied seat covers for the front and sat down. I think the front seats are 4 inches further back that stock. The wheel looked like it was going to be in a bad spot but once I put my hands on it it all felt correct. Resting my arm on the window sill my ha d lands on the wheel just perfect, I can steer with my knees and I should be able to use the clutch and brake just fine. Though I feel like the shifter may have to have a creative jog in it to clear my knee. regardless of positioning I always end up sitting in these cars more or less heels together and knees spread. Just not a lot of room there to be had. I think Driving a late model daily sitting down it feels a little foreign but when you go to grab or use anything it’s all exactly where I want it to be. walked the car across the garage with the floor out to try out the steering, feels effortless and I’m pretty please with it so far. There is some flex in the frame rail when trying to steer at a dead stop but I think most of these cars do that even new. checked my caster and am right about 10 deg. When I originally set it up it was right at 7. I think dropping the car a couple more inches changed it so I’m going to adjust my wishbone mount and see if I can pull it back to 7. I intentionally built in a lot of room for vertical adjustment in the wishbone ball mount so it won’t be any trouble to move it. any how it looks mostly like a car, gotta clean the shop and it’s ready to go back in the corner til summer
What look are you going with on the headlight bar? Stock? Dropped? The reason I'm asking is that it might be easier to start from scratch or buy a speedway dropped bar. They are stainless and shiny and reasonably priced. What you've got now might require relocating the headlight mounts to the right place.
I think your headlight aiming problem lies with the lights themselves. Try a stock headlight. I think you’ll find they aim fine. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
@Dan Hay planning on keeping them stock height. @Never2old weirder things have happened, I’ll see if I can find a stock light to borrow and put on
Your bar is backwards. Its should look like its aimed towards the ground but should adjust enough up. You need more downward adjustment than up so you can aim at the road and not drivers eyes! Haha! Sent from my SM-G977U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Here are a couple I found. Maybe some inspiration for @Tim Sent from my SM-G977U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I know it’s on backwards now lol The other way around is closer but they are still pointing down pretty far. I’ll swap it back around and see if it’s close enough to shim
The Jalopy Journal
