Projects Hillbilly Model T speedster (attempt #2)

Engines still stuck. I popped the trans cover off, shes a bit dry....

 

Not great for sure, but by far not even close to the worst I've seen. I wonder what the cylinders look like though...pop the head off.......

 

The head is coming off Saturday. I want my kids to be there

 

Do you have the brake lever set in neutral? Jacking up the left rear wheel can make cranking easier. Bob

 

It might be a 26/7 engine but the 26/7 head did not have the Ford script. Henry told his men to make sure that not a single part of the 26 was the same as earlier Fords.I talked to a guy writing a book about this topic.

 

I'll split hairs with you a little as I have been into stock T's for a long time, there are records that indicate that by approximately August 1926, that the "Ford" and "Made in USA" were being eliminated from the castings. Being that the new model years started in approx late September- early November, it is with very high likeliness that many first half of the model year 1926 left the factory with the scripts on the head.

Siting from the Model T Ford Club of America and Bruce McCalley Model T encyclopedia, a VERY well known book of Model T history and changes made through its years, renowned by T enthusiast, and personally seeing many stock, original, not restored T's. If I had a copy of the Model T judging guidelines, I am sure it would also reflect this topic as such too.

And the Fallacy of the statement the "to make sure not a single part of the 26 was the same as earlier Fords".... There are many parts STILL the same as the earlier T's even though several changes occurred for the final 2 model years. Henry Ford saying that falls within many folklore amongst which include the floor boards being made from wooden crates (factory blueprint drawings prove otherwise), and yes, even the "you can have any color as long as it is black".

I would refer you to the Model T Ford Club of America encyclopedia list that you can pour over boring changes made the majority of parts through the near 20 years of production : https://www.mtfca.com/encyclo/index.htm

But either way, he still has not provided the Engine serial number, and over the course of 90 years, lots of changes by various owners occurred. And in the end this isn't a restoration, so it's really all a moot point I guess.

 

Never heard that Ford script head story. I had an early '26 T years ago and the list of parts that differed or were changed from a 1927 was fairly long. Bob

 

Since you asked...

Block # 12843089

November 1925 River Rouge Plant I believe

http://www.mtfca.com/encyclo/sernos.htm

pretty interesting chart. Notice how they practically shut down production from '31-'34. The last T engine was built in 1941. I learned something new

 

This came up locally, to cheap to walk away from.

Now I'm thinking 3 springer...

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I like the direction your taking!

 

HECK ya!... do you have the frame horns from the Essex, or are you going to have to make them?

 

I gotta make them. I've already got that figured out.

This axle looks like it was converted to trailer use. Seems like an easy return to service.

 

Is the Essex axle sitting backwards? Is the tie rod in front or back? Bob

 

Your asking the wrong person Bob. But just by looking at it (not knowing the factory steering setup) id guess it is oriented the right way.

The arm was cut off the spindle on the right side. So assuming it's traditional cross steering its facing the right way.


This thing has me puzzled. It's either a factory "guide" with a nail through it. Or some sort of kit. The flat bar mounts to the axle with a bolt that is tapped into the I-beam

 

Guess your right Bob. Push pull steering

 

its got the big brake drum, 26-7. back to coils, they are the heart of a model t. when you start on battery, then switch to coils, the motor gets very happy. rpm picks up, smooths out, and makes better power. they are easy to rebuild yourself, but need to be set up on a machine. find your local model t club, most have a coil seminar quite often as it is a major part of a healthy model t. need good magneto to power it, find a club they will welcome a new visitor

 

I'll be picking up a set of six coil cores this Sunday. Hopefully along with some other parts. Who knows what else, the guy bought out a bunch of T parts from an estate sale...

 

Finally! It actually all looks pretty good. The pictures dont do it justice. Obviously it needs a good cleaning, but from what I'm seeing the parts all look proper. Accept for maybe a valve or 2

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While the boy was unbolting the head i did some rearranging and cleanup. Trying to regain my shop hobby space.

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^^^^^^ Looks like that three spring conversion won't be a problem. Bob

 

Nice, that axle has a healthy drop, it can be mounted on top of the springs, and the springs shackles can be mounted outboard of the frame rails and you'll really be down in the weeds.

 

Congratulations on what will be an exciting project. I have been in the old car world since I was 18 and I can tell you there is ABSOLUTELY NOTHING more fun than a Model T speedster!! Welcome to our club!

 

Wow. Engine does look good. I bet you the rings just got a hold of the cylinder walls making it stick. Probably a couple of taps with a wood block and a big hammer might be all it needs to break it loose.

Also of note, those are original two piece valves. Your a long bit off I assume and you mentioned replacement anyhow. They would be best replaced by newer one piece ones, as they do have a small history of the heads separating from the stems.

There are many ways to go about that. There are stock replacements available, as well as being able to use SB Chevy exhaust valves with adjustable lifters...or you can use 351W exhaust valves, Ford 9N retainers and stock springs...and those have to have the ends ground for your valve lash, same as stock would.

 

I see it as being a good "core" for now. I'll be tearing it all down, and most likely hopping it up anyways. I'd like to get a good cam, so I'll address the valve train then.

Right now i just wanna see it spin. Its soaking now.

I was suppose to pick up some parts today, but a work conflict happened. The guy is a snow plow driver, and they got hit with a small white out so he got called into work. Shitty thing was only 15 minutes away from his house after my son's hockey game today...

 

Update: i can get the engine to rotate backwards a bit by hammering down on the center 2 cylinders. Then when i try the hand crank again it just gets stuck in the same spot

 

Looks like rust in #2 Cylinder.

 

Be patient. Keep soaking and keep soaking- you're getting there.

Not sure if you took the lower inspection cover off to see what's going on below, but you should do that too.

For the last couple of T engines that I unstuck, I filled most of entire engine/transmission pan with a mix of auto trans fluid, penetrating oil, kerosene, etc. I let it sit for awhile while trying to loosen it up from the top of the pistons. After it finally loosened up, I just let it sit for awhile with the full pan of my concoction and kept turning it a little more each time with the crank. The whole assembly eventually would turn over easily and smoothly.

 

More information about this "coupe". The top looks like an early Super Modified dirt track car and the wheels look like Chevy discs

 

I have one of those axles still attached to a frame (sorta) if you need pics or measurements.

 

Thats why i love this place. Thank you Cactus1