Projects SHOEBOX BARGAIN PROJECT

The '49 door handle pulls outward like a refrigerator handle. The '50 is the normal one used for the next 20 years. The trunk latch might be easier to change. I've only had two '51's to work with, never had a '49 so far.

 

I left the hood attached to the front clip on my '51's when I took the clips off, it helped keep the alignment squared up. Two people can handle it easily, I have put them back on by myself, but it isn't easy alone.

 

Today's progress: Radiator out, top of radiator support out, headlights and front turn signals out, and one grill piece out. The dirt photo shows how much dirt was packed between the headlight bucket, and the front, lower corner of the fender.
It was this bad on both sides. I don't know how it didn't eat a hole in the fender near the grill!

 

All your balljoints, tierod ends etc. have their nuts?

 

Nice buy. Looks better without the grille guard. It didn't do it's job the grille still took a hit.

 

It's off the front sheet metal, and will be replaced, so there's it's grave!

 

Real clean, almost major rust free, GREAT find.

 

Wild guess here, but that could be '68 Ford 'Presidential Blue'. I think Ford re-hashed it in the 80's as a truck color. Might be worth a look.

 

Looks like a castle nut that usually isnt used on sheet metal, I try not to throw anything away until I have its replacement, and even then old nuts and bolts go in a old bucket for hard times

 

What a great find you got there young man! You might get some ideas from what I went through the last 8 years doing mine. Check it out. Be sure to look at the gallery about the hood hinges. The 49ers were awful.
https://49fordcoupe.smugmug.com/

 

I love your car. Dont ever sell it.
In 1967 I bought a 47 Mercury and everywhere I went people told me they regretted selling theirs.So I still have mine

 

It is a lot smaller than a castle nut, and it isn't a cotter pin type nut. Ford just put little lines in them for some reason. When a rusty nut or bolt breaks or strips coming off, it gets tossed. If I can't figure out where I need new bolts, i have no business doing this project. Lol.

 

Amen brother! It has taken me too many years to find a decent one to ever sell.

 

Thanks for the help. My hood was torn off one hinge, and the corner was bent back on the other side, due to the hinge not moving.

 

Yep, I dont keep the bad ones either unless its a special type that I need one to go by...like a shoulder bolt on a 56 ford truck hood hinge for example, not sure what all fords had those bolts but anyway carry on

 

oh yea...well catched box...will you give her also a little more power than in original?

 

Plans call for a 390 cfm single 4 barrel, performance cam, headers, and maybe aluminum heads. Not a race engine, but a good running Flattie.

 

Before you start throwing cash at shoebox central, call Roger at 620.680.0449 for parts...be patient with him.....

 

You said it did not come with a Title. How much is involved in your state to get current registration? I would get that taken care of before I would go to far. Finding a build project and fulfilling a dream is all of our hopes, but some state DMV's can be a real buzz killer. Good luck with the build and continue to post updates. Larry

 

OK...think that´s good for having cool trips over the streets. Never had a flattie, mostly like the OHV´s in cause of having more power, but some friends of me are driving this engines in different power-styles

 

The clock will be right twice a day

 

I stuck one of these in the clock hole, been very helpful:

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/sQsAAOSwAXZa5B10/s-l640.jpg

 

Those are known as Van Auken accessory bumper & grille guards, or as we used to call them, monkey bars. They were often placed on the rear of a lot of cars. Made for some good place to grab onto when skiching a ride in the winter! The things we did as kids, amazing we survived.

 

Well, i have done that. I bought a NOS '49 door from ebay for my '51 and project. The '50 and '51 are pretty much same, but the '49 is a completely different story. There's a brace plate for the door handle, inside of the door skin. I get rid off that, welded all the holes shut on the door skin. I used a Lincoln style pushbuttons, so i made a hole for those. Then i welded all latch holes shut and made new ones for the '50-'51 latch. I am not sure what kind of dovetails '49's have, but i guess they are different too.
There's a channel on the door, for the opening bar that is connected to the interior side door handle.
The channel is pretty much same, but the end of the channel on the door latch side is different. I cut that off and cut off a donor piece from the crappy '51 door i had and used that. So, its possible to do, but it takes some work. You have a better access for doner pieces and parts, than we europeans do. So that will make it a lot easier job to do.
I guess the easiest way to do it, is to buy 50 or '51 doors and work only with the dovetails on the B-pilar. I hope this helps.
There's some pics of the latch conversion operation in my build thread.

 

Not sure it fits a stock on the outside, 2 inch lowered slight custom inside type of a build. Jury is still out, also due to what it costs to re-chrome.

 

Ebay has tons of them for sale, but do any of them work? I would love to put a tach there, if they make one that fits.

 

I have gotten titles in my state before, and it's not that bad. It will just have a Bonded Title for 3 years, then I can get a normal one in my name, that follows the car forever.

 

Can he ship hoods and fenders?

 

I had thought about the Lincoln push buttons as well! It may be easier to just install the bear claw style street rod latches, and install a striker bolt on the B pillar side. They stay closed better as well than the stock stuff! Thanks for the info!

 

That clock can be fixed. Go to my website and check out the tips and tricks gallery.