Technical Alternative for expensive seam sealer

Just thinking, the 20 bucks a tube might have as much to do with where he is buying it as it does with the actual product price. There is a group of ag stores here that I have bought from for years. They took the one out here in town but there is one 8 miles away. The only issue with that is their prices are 30% higher than in the other stores in the came company because they are in a somewhat ritzy area. Bulk bolts were a buck a pound higher there than they were at the store 20 miles away. That adds up when you go in and buy ten or twenty pounds at a time. He may be buying from a store with a high price level or a parts house that charges walk in customers full list price.
Good discussion though as I am going to have to do a lot of seam sealing on three of my projects.

 

I use the white lightning caulk for sealing up the welds under cars and trucks, it is water proof and is made for indoors & outdoors.

 

I know it used to be common practice to seam seal over bare metal. I could never understand why other than many manufacturers did that decades ago.

 

I've done it both ways. HRP

 

I had to at a dealership I worked at.
Then I got edjumicated

 

Me too.

 

I use poly urethane window and door calking. It takes paint very well and cleans up with mineral spirits. About $8 a tube at the box stores.

 

You guys are comparing the products you use to fast and firm and I haven't seen fast and firm in a shop in twenty years. You can damn nere glue the panels together with the two part sealers.

 

X2 and it is $30-40 a tube and you have to have the gun to go with it

 

I have also used liquid nail. In my case, I needed a sealer that was able to be sanded. LN hardened up, sanded great and held up awesome. I painted over it. It didn't affect the paint at all. I recommend it.

 

3M is there are other brands and I have never had to actually pay for a mixing gun.

 

I like to use polyurethane caulk also but it’s getting harder to find. Good luck getting that stuff off your hands though. Wear rubber gloves. Does clean off with WD 40 though.

 

Remember a first floor pan patch up job I did....I got em all welded in and decided to use silicone to seal it all up good, then went over it all with spray bombs, It looked good, then some days after it dried I sat inside the doorway of the car with my good jeans on to look at something and guess what.....wet paint all over my jeans where it hadnt dried on the silicone...........

 

Tar. ordianary old hard tar build a fire heat it up and apply with a putty knife when its still hot. Behind the headlights on 55 and 56 chevys the factory used tar. If you repair a 55 or 56 chevy fender eyebrow and do not refill with tar it will soon rust out.

 

They all rust out there........