All, I am trying to figure the best way to install the master cylinder and retain the original pedal set up. Anyone have any suggestions or pictures. I have 1940 Brakes all around, all I need is the pedal and master cylinder set up and route plumbing and Im good. Im just stuck on the Master Cylinder and pedals. Any and all suggestions or pictures welcome. Thanks
Check out Early V8 Garage, or find it via Richard on Fordbarn V8. He manufactures a bolt-on kit to actuate MC from unaltered pedal for all Fords 1932-38, obviously different kits for each type. He also can supply anything up to a drop-in kit with all linkages and tubing ready to use.
Great people, and they put out good products. Thier products are made to not butcher the original parts. We have used two kits for 32's and they worked great. Steve Glucoft Amocat Speed Emp.
Hmmmmmmmm....I was planning to use my 40 ford pedals, linkage and mounting on my 34 coupe. I went that route with my 33 pickup because the front legs of the X were all hacked up anyway. I spliced in the 40 [actually, 41 pickup but they're same as 40 passenger car] portion of the X into the 33 frame. I had no original floor to judge where the original 33 pedals were so I just placed the 40 pedals where they were comfortable, interfaced with the clutch throwout bearing ford shaft and welded them babies in, stock 40 pedal mount bracket and all. I hesitate to do a re-enactment on my new coupe because the X isn't hacked like the pickup was.....aw hell...I'm gonna go ahead and use all the stock 40 ford car pedals in this 34 simply because it worked so damned well in the last one.... Maybe I'm just a hack but it works so nicely! Sorry the photo of the 40 donor chassis doesn't show much of the pedal mount.
Loudpedal, I too saved that picture and think it was a car on ebay. I checked "We Are Only 32's." website and they don't have that one listed. I like it and would have got one. As far as Early V-8 garage Rich is a nice guy and will help out in anyway he can. If you don't know exactly what you need go to V8 garage. As far as the parts and were he gets them, same place like mac's,drake etc.. <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
I have a '35 with hydraulic brakes and a kit from Early V-8 Garage for the master cylinder. From the little that I have driven it, the brakes work great. Only concern that I have with it is the master cylinder hangs down below the frame. Plenty high for the car at stock height but may get low when the car gets dropped down some. I can shot some pictures if you like. Neal
Finally got the pictures. This is the hydraulic kit for the master cylinder from Early V-8 Garage on a 1935 Ford. The center picture was shot straight on from the bottom of the running board to give an idea how much it hangs down. Again, this is on a '35, not '34. The bracket for a '34 may be different, I don't know. Neal
Mr. J. Wandering, thought you may want to check the torque on the bolt holding the front of your wishbones together. Usually when you get a powdery rust ring around a bolt or washer, like those have, there is a little movement. Don't want any of that there. Let me know if I'm wrong.
does anyone have a good pic of a stock pedal assembly?? I seem to remember my uncle doing a set using a rocker shaft to the side of the pedal assembly. this way it didn't drop below the frame rail. I know I wouldn't even consider the setup shown in the picture on a lowered car! it has been about 12 years since I saw it so my memory is a bit shady.
The offset has been done at least a couple ways on '32's, ways that might transfer to a '34 with some bracket added to replace the non-existant straight across part of the X member... I have murky pictures from the build of the full-size Big Deuce showing MC facing forward just to the right of the transmission, actuated by stock cross shaft. Facing forward within the left triangle area of a deuce has also been done...look for posts by Klazurfer showing a really clean, almost bolt-on, version of this. On a deuce, both of these ways eliminate both the dangerous lowness of the MC and the welded actuator used on traditional deuce Ansen-style conversions. The V8 Shop conversion (I have read brochure, have not seen one) replaces deuce pedal pivot shaft with a new shaft that rotates with brake pedal and has a bell crnk on end, actuating a MC to right of battery and protected by crossmember...I think. Brochure looked good, and conversion is entirely bolt-on, with all detailing pieces available for service and emergency brakes.
Given that you had to install a MC anyway, would it be a good idea to use a more modern dual reservoir MC instead of the OEM MC? Just looking for thoughts on this subject, definitely not criticizing anybodys setup. I'm thinking of switching out the OEM MC to a dual reservoir MC on my '39 coupe. I have F-100 brakes on the front and stock hydraulics brakes on the rear. Any thoughts, pro or con?
Here's how I did it: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=93219 Well, shit, the pics are gone...I'll go look for them
I used the stock pedals on my '34 that pulled rather than pushed just as henry designed. It pulled an adjustable rod which went to a bell crank that drove the master cylinder mounted just behind the crossmember. It works very well with no floor issues other than cutting a fill hole. The master cylinder is also mounted high enought such that its not hanging below the frame rails. I replaced the stock center crossmember with a Chassis Engineering bolt in one to mount the tranny (mainly to preserve my uncut floor). You can see from the pics how the m/c is bolted to that crossmember in a hole that was already there. I just drilled holes for bolts. The pictures are kinda of bad, wasn't really trying to take picture of anything in particular, but if you look close enough, you can see the bell crank. On the last picture, you can barely see the 5/8 pull rod that connects the bell crank to the pedals and how it just rides below the upper part of the frame rail. From that photo you can also see the back side of the bell crank's stub which is 1-1/2 inches in dia. It passes thru the x-member and is gusseted from two sides. I have 13K miles on the car with no issues. However, I do worry about things like the transmission's tailshaft coming apart and tearing up brake lines, but that's only likely at take off on a drag strip where I would only be endangering myself.
OK - here's two of the pics from my thread - I did basically the same thing - turned the pulling motion into a pushing motion with a bellcrank. I fabricated a crossmember that bolted in. My pics look backwards because it was a RHD car...
Thread revival! Eh Reggie, (or anyone else) What did you use for a slave setup or linkage on your T-5? Cheers! -Shiny
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