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Technical How do you guys set your valves?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by jaw22w, Nov 24, 2019.

  1. jaw22w
    Joined: Mar 2, 2013
    Posts: 1,671

    jaw22w
    Member
    from Indiana

    I adjusted my first set of valves in 1966 at 16 on a 265 SBC in my '29 Ford CCPU. I was pretty green. I set the valves with the engine running. No valve covers. Got it done, but what a mess. Then I graduated to the little clips on the rocker arms and then cut up valve covers. Still making a mess of the engine bay and the floor. Then I learned about the EOIC method. I used that for a while, but was never really satisfied with it. The thought always remained in my mind as to how much should the exhaust be open. A long time ago I came up with my own method. #1 and #6 are at TDC at the same time, #1 on compression, #6 on exhaust. So when #6 intake valve is at full lift #1 intake lifter is on the base circle. So, set #1 intake. then rotate the crank (90 degrees) and watch # 5 intake for full lift. Set #8 intake valve. Go right through the firing order to set all intakes. Then I repeat the process for the exhaust valves. It takes a little longer to do it this way, but I would rather not hurry through setting valves anyway. This way there is no question in my mind if the lifter is on the base circle on the valve I am setting. I have not adjusted valves with the engine running in at least 40 years. This method has worked for our 850HP sprint engines to the mildest 305. I only know SBCs, but this method would work for any make engine also. Just substitute the correct firing order.
    Just wondering if anyone had heard of this method before? How do you guys set them?
    One other thing I wanted to mention. Don't use the "spin the push rod" method for finding 0 lash. It doesn't work. I have seen valves held up off the seat, and you could still spin the push rod. Use the "jiggle it up and down" method. Much more accurate.
    The reason for the rant. Yesterday a buddy brought his new engine by on a stand in the bed of his truck. It needed the valves adjusted, and he didn't know how to do it. I made him watch and taught him how to do it. I won't ever have to set his valves again.

    I write this on a piece of paper and set it on the air cleaner:
    #1 #8 #4 #3
    #6 #5 #7 #2
    This keeps me straight on the pairings.
     
  2. My approach has always been (for SBC) to make note of when #1 is midway to near the top of the compression stroke (the valves will be fully closed during this stroke), I then adjust both intake and exhaust valves of #1, I then rotate the crank a 1/4 turn which means #8 is on compression stroke and adjust both valves on #8, 1/4 turn for #4, etc through the firing order. You need to rotate the crank through 2 full rotations using this method but it works well for me.

    As for how far to adjust the valves, I tighten the rockers while wiggling and turning the pushrods, as soon as they get tight, I back off a touch and again sneak up on their tight spot and then add 1/4 turn.
     
  3. m.kozlowski
    Joined: Nov 2, 2011
    Posts: 141

    m.kozlowski
    Member

    I have a method when i even don't have to know given engine's firing order, no matter how many cylinders it has. Mark distributor body where wires are, and to which cylinder they go. Then remove cap and adjust valves on cylinder on which distributor rotor is pointing to. 100% sure that valves are closed :).
     
    chevy57dude and 03GMCSonoma like this.
  4. I always liked the setting them hot and running method if possible on hydraulics. My thinking is that the preload method does not account for lifter leakage differences once oil is up to temp and operating. I have an old sheetmetal valve cover I cut the top on three sides and bent it up. Put that on the car and with the bent up top facing the outside, even a "generous" squirting rocker will catch the oil and prevent the big mess. I think the resulting engine runs a little smoother since all valves are set at the exact same 1/4 or 1/2 turn preload based on operating parameters. But that might just be my wishful thinking......
     

  5. typo41
    Joined: Jul 8, 2011
    Posts: 2,571

    typo41
    Member Emeritus

    I did the valve cover method, but with open lakes headers it is hard to hear the lifter tappet noise.
    I think I have one still loose.
     

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