Technical Adhesives or Epoxy suggestions

I have a piece of white metal grille that I need to attach a bolt to. It is only to hold some expanded metal in place but of course I can't weld it.

I am wondering if anyone has a suggestions for sticky stuff. I know they are attaching a bunch of parts in new cars with it rather than welding so I am thinking of trying that.

I figure to encase the head in a big ol' blob of stuff so I will have a stud. Anyone have experience with some of these new adhesives like the 3 part epoxies and such or Lord's products. It will be of course where it wont be seen.

 

I use Lord Fusor adhesives all the time on late model stuff. Works great. They have a pretty good website with breakdowns of the different adhesives, you should be able to find a suitable one.

 

I would try some JB weld from a hardware store. You are going to be looking at a lot of money and way more product than you need for automotive grade adhesives and they probably won't perform much better in your situation.

 

I like JB Weld. Don't use thier Kwik Weld. It's not as strong.

 

I'd have to find the tubs that came with my sailboat years ago but the epoxy is some of the toughest stuff I have ever seen when you put something together with it. I patched a cracked toilet tank with it and it has held up for over five years.

 

I agree with using JB Weld, have used it quite often.

 

I have had great success with JB Weld

 

Lately I have used The Right Stuff in places where I'd normally use JB Weld. It has performed very well.

It probably wouldn't work in high mass or high load applications, but it shines in cyclical/vibration roles that would cause JB Weld to crack and peel. My A coupe has the Right Stuff on an upper radiator support mount and a fiberglass seat bracket.

 

Marine Tex perhaps? Anyone that has ever had a boat is familiar with it, strong stuff.

 

Don't give it too much thought. Any ol Loctite or JB will work. I like the KWIK version myself as I'm not trying to launch a 1500 HP drag car, just fix holes or attach stuff. Is it weak? Well, I patched a heat exchanger on an old Mach 1 snowmobile back in 99. Aluminum, anitfreeze runs through it, it's in perhaps the harshest and extreme area of most anything mechanical and cycles from freezing overnight to 120 degrees when running. I roughed it up, cleaned real good, cleaned it again, cleaned it once more. Yes, it's still there. Yes, it still holds. Yes, it's JB KWIK.

For your purpose you want a clean and rough surface. If you could lightly blast it that would be the best and you can do multiple spots in 1 serving. Also, and this is critical, the use of epoxy isn't always a 'some's good so more's better' thing. Too thick and heavy it won't flex even a little and break from the constant vibes on a grille. Too little it won't hold. I'd suggest cover the head and go an equal amount on both sides, like 3 bolt heads total if that makes sense. Let it taper off a bit and don't look back. Clean and rough surface will serve you the best. Clean especially. It wouldn't hurt to get a little paint on the back afterward so the pot metal won't deteriorate around the repair. It will anyways deteriorate eventually but a little coating of some kind will let it last as long as possible. Good luck, show some pics...

 

Another for JB Weld..

 

Thanks !!

 

You are probably speaking of 3M 5200 comes in a tube and is white. Really more an adhesive then an epoxy putty but don’t ever use 5200 if it ever has to be taken apart in the future.

 

Lord just contacted me and recommended their Fusor 110B/111B for my use. Going to give it a try.

 

One of my go to is the polyester epoxy that is used for gluing marble/granite counter tops together. Its in jell form and mixes like bondo and is super sticky(wear gloves). It sets up super quick (1-2 minutes)so be ready and only mix just a little more than you need, A gal +hardner set me back about $45 and qts are available for less and lasts for years if you keep the can sealed

 

J B weld

 

Use J B Weld with good results.

 

JB Weld is TRADITIONAL!!....and great stuff!

 

This is great for fixing broken boat transoms.

 

I'm not fully picturing what you are trying to do but I think I understand. So why not skip the bold and JB weld ( or whatever ) the expanded metal directly to the grill. Seems like there would be more surface area to make contact with than just a bolt head.

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You might use the old "metal to fiberglass" trick, to get the best adhesion and strength. Weld the bolt to a piece of 16 ga. sheet metal. As big as you can fit into the area you're gluing to, or at least 1 inch around. Grind the backside real good, and then use either structural adhesive or JB to glue it on. More surface area, means more strength! Use Vice grips or clamps to get the metal real tight against the grill. Here, less thickness of glue is better.

 

if you have enough surface to glue to, can you just drill and tap? Or some sort of nut-sert?

 

The problem is the back side where the metal would lay is less than 1/32" thick on it's edge. The other side is the chromed surface so can't drill it. With a bolt glued in I can remove the metal as necessary. I like your tweak chopolds.

 

I have been hearing some good things about a product called Belzona. Might be worth looking into.

 

I did a restoration on a car that had plastic pieces that were pristine, with the exception that the bolts had been sheared off. I used JB Weld, and they are still holding 20 years later.
The secret is, clean, then clean, then wipe with acetone. Did I forget to say clean?
Bob

 

Bubble Gum , Bailin Wire or Duct Tape . If that don’t fix it , you don’t need it . I have put 1/2 of the Natural Gas Supply to a large Metro Area on a bypass held together by bailin wire ! JB Weld is the best for a solid repair , a spot where it many see vibration , the Right Stuff is pretty tough also .

 

If you really want high tech look at Epibond. They have some stuff good enough for spacecraft if you happen to be building one.


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Never have used JB Weld but does anyone out there think it would work to lock Riv-Nuts into place. I used the right size drill for the Riv-Nut I was using in some 16 ga. sheet metal. I pulled the nut down as tight as I could get it and when I ran a bolt into the nut, the nut stripped in the hole I drilled. That led to a lot of foul language and carefully grinding the nut out. Just wondering if a small bead of JB under the flange of the nut before I squeeze it would help out here?

 

I do that on all the "please don't ever come loose" rivnuts. Sometimes, if I get my MIG in there I will spot the Rivnuts in place. I fear them turning when I am stuck in the middle of no where.

 

I use riv nuts from McMaster Carr that have sort of like splines on the od. I’ve never had one turn loose.