Projects Steering Binding

I apologize in advance if this question has been asked before. I recently started on my very first project car; a Shoebox Ford that was chopped pretty sloppily and has a lot of bodywork that needs to be done. Nevertheless, I liked it and bought it so here I am. The flat head was swapped out for a mustang 302. It looks like they did some steering "adjustments" to accommodate the newer motor. The steering tends to bind up in certain spots. Any body else dealt with this issue? Images below.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions for a newbie!

 

Steering U joints at too much of an angle.

 

So does that mean the shaft itself needs to be longer?

 

As scoop states, absolutely too acute of an angle.

 

Shit can the headers.

 

Column should be shorter so u joints are at less of an angle.

 

And like Dan said get rid of the headers.

 

Is that a muffler clamp holding the steering mast on??? I would certainly want to see that gone as well. As others said you have to acute an angle. I think I would shorten the steering shaft.

 

I would buy new joints too if it was driven much. and ya scrap the pipes.

 

See this stuff to much,U-joints added in too steering wrong are going bind,too much angle,plus many times, there are more then one and are not timed with each other. Add to that,your steering wheel is too small around,those aftermarket smaller then stock wheel may look good ,but work for crap=the steering wheel size was designed for car/ some times some one has cut the hole front end out,replaced with something like a M2/and its more often then not welded in too car wrong as well. Looking at avatir pic, if thats your car,may have front rims with wrong off{out} set making high scrub,and that also makes steering feel bad. Hope u can fix all it may need.

 

Thanks for all the replies!

 

that looks like a R&P gear down there with the input pointing up. If so, show pics from the bottom. May need to start over with another style.

 

The original steering works well.I can steer around corners and anywhere with one finger with my 50 Ford

 

I agree. The swap to a rack and pinion with the otherwise stock suspension probably carries with it more problems than just the binding...though that is the most important issue at present. But other geometry problems usually occur...such as 'bump steer' and turning radius increase.

Probably the least expensive thing you could do would be to reinstall stock shoebox steering box and linkage (tie rods, idler arm and intermediate link. That may require replacing the headers with a manifold or factory Ford Mustang tubular header/manifolds which I believe will clear stock steering. The latter depends on how the engine was positioned when the mounts were installed.

In short, you may need to re-engineer that area to correct the uuhhh......less professional workmanship of the prior owner(s).

Ray

 

I think there is a Volvo box that works with the small block engine.

 

Thanks again for all of the replies. I will have to get under it later this week to get a better pic of the front end but I had this pic. Also forgot to mention that it has air suspension installed. I knew she needed some work when I bought her but I am just now figuring out how much. As crazy as it sounds, it is not discouraging; i figure it is a good way to learn!

 

Texas is a big state,where ya at???Probably some folks in your area that could help.

 

Thanks Texas Webb..I am in the Dallas area.

 

Marty is on the money..Have used RHD Volvo steering boxes here in Australia .. in 49-52 Fords....

 

With that cobbled up mess of U joints put in to reach the rack that someone stuck on there I'd be inspecting the installation of the rack real close to make sure it was mounted safely and securely.
To change away from that to some other box that is commonly used to replace the stock one on shoebox Fords you would have to come up with proper steering linkages = tie rods, center link and idler arm along with the box as all that is gone. This instruction sheet shows installing one setup for shoeboxes. setup. https://www.borgeson.com/instructions/999062.pdf
The simple solution is as several said, loose the headers and go back to stock SBF cast manifolds (or a set of headers with better clearance and shorten the steering shaft several inches so you can take a lot of that angle out of the U joints.

 

In agree. Shouldn't they be at a max of 30 degrees or so? I believe so.

 

This! Plus I'd add to check bump steer issues too.

If the remainder of the installation passes muster you could possibly get around the extreme uj angle with one of those double uj's. This might make it a very simple rework.


You already have power steering which I guess would be a shame to lose and thus a good reason to try and maximise the use of the existing.

Chris

 

Lot's of great feedback and suggestions. Thank you all!