New lugs welded inside, slant six fork and ball. Had to make a the clutch ball mount 1/2" thick but it all seems to work smoothly and clear! I might make a tin shield to keep mud and rocks out of the clutch. Not sure how most guys cover the open space in the front.
That is what I am thinking. The block plate goes behind the adapter, but the one I made it pretty open. I am thinking of a tin one screwed to the front side of the adapter will be enough.
There must have been a street rodder manual published that stated you must butcher the shit out of the factory x when installing a 350/auto. I picked up a much less rusty but streetrodded frame from a buddy. It has a four bar front and 1/4" boxing plates added. (Yuck) The price was right and I think I can can combine the frame I dropped with this one to build one good solid fame with limited pitting and nastiness.
Matt...Beauty is in the parts you have to make fit! And not be tempted to 'order'... I have hemis, a 354 Chrys. and a 276 DeSoto, both have 'hot rod' aluminum bellhousing adaptors, to '37 LaSalle. One for roadster, other for tub. I see you have a steel 'scatterproof' bellhousing for Chev., how is the depth for fit on your 833 to DeSoto crank pilot bearing? (is pilot brg. in crank or flywheel?) If 'crank', are you having to machine a 'bushing' or 'sleeve' to extend back to pilot shaft? It's really a 'depth question.' Thanks...GREAT thread.
Mike. I think the depth on the bellhousing will be close. The dodge one with steel adapter is about 7.5" deep. This is about 7.125. It think I will run the pilot in the crank and trim off the giant long end of the dodge trans. I should know in the next couple of weeks. I am pulling the truck apart right now to finalize the frame, motor mounts, trans mount and get the frame ready for final assembly. Time to kick this into high gear. I wanna drive it next spring, ugly or not.
As long as you get the stance as good as you had the truck looking after all the adjustments, it ain’t gonna be ugly. Any plans to make all the cool bits of the six for the hemi? Like the finned air cleaners and Matt brewed headers? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Not as much home brewed stuff but cool none the less. The hemi has the stock for barrel manifold so I modified I to use a modern edelbrock carb. I got a repop stellings air cleaner. A set of Chrysler stainless headers that I am hacking down to fit. The engine will be all dressed in black and chrome. And I still have a bunch of other bits to build, shifter, nerf, hood hold downs etc.
Today felt like a long step backwards. I have the truck fully pulled apart and ground out all he welds on the frame I stuck together almost four years ago. I used the back section of that frame and the front of another that is not rusted through although it has more pitting. I have the new frame tacked to the old rear legs and it squared up as best I can. This week I am going to hammer down on this and get the thing boxed and welded finally. For all my dithering, misdirection, and sideways moves I am focused on getting the frame done and in primer before the weather turns .
Keep at it. My neighbor and his son had to piece 2 frames together too. The back half of theirs was paper. Now it's almost complete.
This pic reminds me a lot of what I’ve been doin the last couple days. Only you have way more room and way less mess. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
It's more cramped than it seems. I made a cart to roll the cab outside and the front end can be outside as well. And ya can't see the piles of parts and crap along the back and left hand wall....lol
Frame it all straightened out and squared up. Just need to finish welding and add the rest of the boxing plates
Ok where are the guys from the tv shows when ya need em? I wanna drive this in an hour! Lol. I have the front boxed and finishe welded. And the rear up to the crossmember boxed and partially welded. Spent he weekend eating grinder dust and welding. Might get this part finished up this week. The wife is working 12's at the hospital.
Did you use the X member from the other frame to box this one? So rad. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Yes I used the straight parts of the old frames X to box this one. I got the curved parts of another X to fix the badly butchered one on this frame. The original frame material is high nickel. It welds great, is surprisingly springy and doesn't rust as fast as new material.
Had a really nice warm fall day here on my tropical island. Probably 18degrees C and no rain. Made for a great day to strip the horrible peeling paint and excess filler off my cab. Not sure why someone would fill the high spots and sand the low spots. It's a lot straighter without all the bondo. And I am happy cause it's black. Still have to do the inside of the cab and the top of the roof. But the majority is done.
Battery box mounted, welded and braces installed. Trail gear rock buggy piece I traded for some transfer case parts. I just cut the "TG" out of it. I often ponder why when I am hung over and feel like ass my welds turn out great! Cause the rest of the time I seem to be hit and miss.
That did just make me chuckle Mopar Man......or is that Jalopy Joe...ahh it's Dumprat... Joking aside I admire the innovation and that is what's always fueled go fast......Giver It also illustrates knowledge of Machining, Mechanics, Tolerances...your good at this... I'm still chuckling, editing this...
Spent the evening building made rear spring bushings? I hope to have the frame back down and the axles back in to set up motor tomorrow. I wasted a bunch of time today cutting and grinding the casting flash off the windshield frame for my roadster. I think it has potential.
My lovely wife has the garage plugged up with furniture she is repainting so no grinding or welding. So I spent much of the day fooling with putting the front end and motor bits on to make damn sure that everything is going to fit. And low and behold it does! I do have to move the genny to the passenger side or solder a new top outlet on the road but that is pretty minor.
Spent the weekend fooling with fitting pedals and shifter location. I made a miniature 34 pedal box from angles copied off an original. For some reason it mounts the pedals cooked in the frame, so I am going to zip I apart and change the angles slightly. Other than that the pedal position is finally figured.